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I've been stuck on this question for a long time, and I need it for tomorrow.

Given what you know about the minimal essential functions of cellular life, if you could create a basic artificial cell, what 4 structures are necessary for cellular function? What do additional structures would make the cell more functional?

I am looking at colleges and trying to decide what to major in. I have thought about mechanical engineering, but I go to a very small school, less than 50 kids in 7-12, and my school doesn't offer any math higher than algebra 2 and the highest science is chemistry, no physics. I was very good at Algebra, but struggled in Chem. After looking at the courses required for ME it looked like it would be hard to even catch up to where everyone else would be starting. I also prefer to be more hands-on than sitting in a desk all day, and after some research, it looks like ME do lot of thinking, but not a lot of doing. However, when I was researching ME I found a few colleges that offer Engineering Technology, which looked more hands on. So my questions are; Whats the difference between ME and MET?, Are either of them hands on?, I know it's not hard to get a job with an ME degree but what about with an MET degree?, and with my lack of higher math or science are either of them doable? Other than that just any other comments or thoughts, I like to build things and figure things out, I really enjoy working with cars and engines, but really anything mechanical interests me. I do plan to visit the colleges, but I just wanted an idea of what I would be getting into first.

My 2001 Daewoo Nubira had a high idle problem, when put in park or neutral it would idle very high 2-3K RPM. I noticed that if I closed the throttle with my hand instead of letting it snap shut it would close a little more, which would lower the idle back to normal. I looked at with a flashlight and it looked pretty dirty, so I took it off and thoroughly cleaned the whole thing, and in that time I also replaced the IACV because it was making a grinding noise. When I put it back together I forgot which side was up on the throttle plate and I noticed that if it was put in one way it caught just a little when closed and when put the other way it moved freely. I put the plate on the way that moved freely and put it back on the car. It idled great and worked the first time I drove it. Then I drove it for a second time, about 5 miles on dusty roads, and when I got back and put it in park it revved up to 3K RPM again. I opened the hood and sure enough, the plate was catching. What would cause this to happen? The oil is never low, so I don't think that is what's gumming it up. Ideas?

My 2001 Daewoo Nubira has loose steering, when the wheels are straight there is like a dead zone of about an inch or two where there is no pressure and the wheels don't move. I followed the linkages down and found that the shaft going into the rack is moving,but the tie rods are not. There is also a clunking coming from the rack at the end of the dead zones. Is there any way to adjust the rack? Do I need a new rack? Is there something I'm missing?

My 86 Toyota pickup was having problems idling when cold, so after some research I narrowed it down to the idle control valve or as Toyota calls it the auxiliary air valve being stuck closed. I took it off and sure enough it was completely shut. I cleaned it up, but it still wouldn't open at all. I also ohmed it out and it had 50 ohms. I did some more research and was told it should open when put in the freezer, but nothing happened. I assume it's just broken, but is there anything I can try? I couldn't find one for sale anywhere. It's the older style that does not attach to the throttle body.

I have a 1986 toyota sr5 pickup with a 22re. My problem is that it won't idle when I first start it up. I turn the key and it fires up quickly and easily, but it will almost immedietly die if I don't hold the gas. It has gotten worse over the past month. At the beginning of last month it wouldn't die, but the rpm's would drop to about 200 then to about 800 and just kind of bump back and forth, like it was about to die then it would get a shot of gas. Now like I said it just immedietly dies. Besides the idle problem it runs fine, it still has the same power and speed, and after it's warm it idles almost perfectly smoothly at about 750 in drive and 1100 in park. The outside temp doesn't seem to matter. I've done some research, but it sounds like there are a million sensors that could be the problem and I don't want to just throw money at it until it works, can anyone point me in the right direction?

In the past summers I've used fatheads for bait, but I've never seen chubs in bait stores, so I'd like to trap creek chub for pike fishing this summer There are a lot of creeks, small lakes, and rivers in my area that I know have them. I've tried trapping and using small ice jigs, but I never catch any. Basically what I'm asking is where do they like to congregate? Do they like fast moving streams, lakes ( I know the name suggests creeks but..), slow rivers, or ???. What is the best way to catch them? I live by Valley City ND if by the off chance anyone has any has any local spots. Also, can they be kept with other bait fish, like fatheads, as I keep my minnows in a large tank during the summer or do they kill fish that are smaller than them?

I have a 1986 toyota sr5 pickup and there is something wrong with the starting system. About a week ago it stalled in my yard, it seemed like the battery had died. I tried to start it and it just clicked. I hooked up the battery charger turned it on heard a loud pop, then I noticed the last person to put the battery cables on had put the red as negative and black as positive. I pushed it in my shop and replaced the big 80 amp fuse that protects the system. I connected everything and it just clicked, so I put in a different battery and it easily started. I turned it off and tried to start again an hour later and just clicks. I replaced the leads on the cables and still nothing. I pulled the starter and bench tested it, it worked but I when I put it back in it still clicked. I thought maybe there was something internal that made it not have any torque, so I replaced the starter and it still just clicks. I double checked and there is 13 volts going into the starter. I cleaned the connections again and tried again. This time it clicked twice then wouldn't click at all, even with a booster. I thought maybe it was possible it the engine was seized, but it easily turned with a breaker bar. Everything else electrical works. Ideas?

I'm looking for a second beater vehicle and on craigslist I found a 1993 isuzu pickup. Its 2wd 2.3L 5 speed, without any rust. I never see thees driving around. Were these good vehicles? Are parts easy to find? I noticed it had a carb, what carb is it? Also some people say it gets around 20 mpg and others say closer to 30, what is the mpg?

I hit a deer with my 1996 Ford Aspire and totaled it, so I need to buy a car quickly. I need a car that's decent on gas to take me to work and back, 45 miles one way. I need something reliable and good in snow because I live in ND. The three cars I'm looking at are a 1999 Ford Taurus with 67,000 miles with a 48,000/4 year warranty, a 2006 Suzuki Aerio SX AWD with 77,000 miles, or a 2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue with 97,000 miles. They all run and drive well, and they all have had one owner and have clean CarFax's. Based on those factors which one would be the best in your opinion?

I was driving my 1975 W100 with a 318 when the voltmeter spiked to 19 then dropped to 8, I drove the two miles back to my house without any trouble. I pulled the alternator and brought it to O'reilly's for testing. They said it was a bad and sold me a new one, I also bought a new voltage regulator since it was cheap. I put the new regulator and alternator on and turned the key, immediately the voltmeter went to 8 and the wire that goes from the alternator to the resistor started smoking and fried. I took the alternator back to oreilly's and they tested it and said it's good. I replaced the fried wire, but it did it again. I cant find any shorts, is there something else it could be?

I was driving my 75 W100 with a 318 when the voltage meter spiked to 19, after a few seconds it went down to about 8. The engine still ran fine and the radio light didn t get dim. I drove the next 3 miles to my house without any trouble. Would this be a sign of the alternator, voltage regulator, or just some bad connections?

I have a 75 W100 with an automatic 727 transmission. The transmission doesn't start leaking until the engine is shut off. I cleaned the area up a little bit and it appears to be coming from somewhere on the top of the bell housing. What could be leaking?

I bought a cheap radio and a new speaker and tried to install them in my 74 Powerwagon. The radio is made to hook up to four speakers, but the truck only has one oval one in the dash. I put the radio in and connected all the speaker wires to the one speaker. When I turned it one it worked with the volume really low, but if I turned it up at all, the sound would completely stop. I disconnected the speaker and just connected one set of wires to it. It worked, but I don't like having to put the radio on front left everytime I use it. Is there a way to hook it up correctly or do I have to find an old stock radio somewhere?

So, I had two male rabbits. One was a netherland dwarf and the other was a mini lop. They were both neutered. They were great friends and they both got upset if they weren't together. The dwarf died about 4 months ago, and we heard the lop could get depressed. We gave him two weeks and he was pretty sad, wouldn't play, hardly ate anything, etc. We got a two month old female mini lop to be his friend. After about two weeks they got along great, and they stayed in the same pen. Then about a week later we caught the girl mounting the boy. He nipped her, but they didn't fight. We put the girl in a different pen, and had her spayed. It's been about a month since then, and they won't get along. The girl chases the boy and then the boy turns around and attacks her. Will they be like this forever, or is there something I can do? We put them in neutral territory when we put them together .

I have a 1985 Ski-Doo MX 470 that's really hard to start. The guy I bought it from isn't a dealer but he does buys and sell snowmobiles them all the time and he said the carbs had been cleaned and it was in good mechanical condition. When I bought it, it started and ran first pull from cold. It's been a very dry winter so I haven't been able to ride until about 2 weeks ago. I've had it in my shop and I have been starting every week or two and its always started first pull. Then when I finally got snow, it wouldn't fire. I pulled the plugs and they were soaking wet. After drying out the cylinders I pulled it about 20 more times and it fired once, then twice, and finally it ran. After that it ran fine. The next day it did the same thing, only then it died after 10 minutes of riding. It didn't sputter or anything it just died. I let it sit and eventually it started. I've ridden it a few times since than and it hasn't died since. Now it takes 20 or 30 pulls and I usually have to pull the plugs and dry the engine just to for it to fire. It has gas and spark. I haven't checked the compression, but it doesn't feel like it's low. After it's warm it starts on the first pull. I know it's hard to tell without being there, but is there anything obvious that I'm missing or anything I could try. Gas and oil aren't low.

I fish all the time in the spring, summer, fall but I just started ice fishing. I haven't caught much and I feel like it's because im trying summer jigging techniques on the ice. I'm used to jigging for walleye but the lake I ice fish on has alot of perch and bluegill. What are some basics to ice fishing that I should know? I've mostly been using fatheads and crappie's on a 1/8 or 1/16 jig head. I'm usually on Clausen Springs in ND if anybody has any specific info for that lake.

I live in the country in ND and my shoes fall apart very quickly. I am usually walking on gravel, in mud, through puddles, etc. I usually get cheaper shoes that last about 6 months, so I decided to spend $120 on the Brooks Cascadia 9 and they only lasted about 10 months before they started tearing. I don't do any running, they would just be for every day. So, what are the most durable shoes for under $100?

Basically, I had male 2 bunnies. I had a netherland dwarf (Taz) and a mini lop (we call him the big guy). They were really good friends, and now Taz unexpectedly died. I think the he died earlier this morning, so the big guy was with Taz's body for about 8 hours. When I found them the big guy was freaking out and running back and forth across his cage. Will he get depressed? He's eating, but he seems sad. Should I get another bunny for him?

My '75 Dodge W100 with a '69 318 industrial stalls when I rev it. It only does it when I its not moving. I'll turn the engine on and it will idle pretty well. I put it in either reverse or drive and when I even touch the gas the engine runs really bad. If I keep revving it stalls. If I stop revving it goes back to idling fine. To make it move I have to feather the gas. After it starts moving it revs fine and I don' have any problems. In the past month I've replaced the battery cables, resistor, coil, cap, points, condenser, and plugs. In the past year I've replaced the fuel pump, plug wires, and rebuilt the carb. Ideas? Also, I'm 16 and doing a lot of guessing on it, so please be detailed.