We used the Factory timing marks on the cam and crank. But no spark even though it rolls over
Could someone also give me the location of the crankshaft position sensor? This is a 1.5 L dual overhead cam engine.
Neo
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Timing belts are extremely difficult to succesfully change unless you have experience in the area. The timing on the engine must be set exactly, or (unless non interference engine is present) the valves and the cylinder bores would collide, which would cause call for very expensive engine repair.
Disconnecting the negative battery cable. Insure you have your radio security code (if equipped) any preset radio stations and the time on a piece of paper to allow for quick resetting once repairs are made.)
Remove the distributor cap. (Most modern cars are "distributorless" electronic ignition types. They will have a cam position sensor instead. The important thing is to be able to determine "TDC" (Top Dead Center) on the #1 cylinder - which usually requires consultation of the engine repair manual which all differs by model.)
Using a wrench or socket on the crankshaft bolt rotate the engine until the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the 0° mark on the timing scale (This step assumes the timing belt is still intact). Under any circumstances do not do this on interference engines unless you are sure the belt is still in-tact. If you have not already bent your valves with a broken timing belt, you will likely do so if you spin the crankshaft without the camshaft spinning.
Verify the distributor rotor is aligned with the index mark on the distributor housing indicating the rotor is in position to fire the number one cylinder. If not, rotate the engine another full turn. (May require more turns in V6, V8 engines - see above comment about TDC.)
Remove any components or accessory drive belts that interfere with removing the timing belt cover. This varies by model; consult your service manual to determine which parts need to be removed from your vehicle. (This step involves removal of the crankshaft pulley, which may require a "pulley puller". See also comment below on special tools.)
Remove the bolts or screws holding the timing cover in place, and lift the cover off the engine. Some engines have a two-piece timing cover.
Check for proper alignment of the crank and camshaft timing marks.
NOTE: Many engines have a dot or index line on the pulleys or sprockets that must be lined up with corresponding marks on the block, cylinder head, or accessory shaft. On some engines, the index mark on the camshaft sprocket aligns with the parting line of the first camshaft-bearing tower. This is very important if you're replacing a timing belt that has broken. Consult your service manual for the correct alignment procedure for your vehicle and correct any misalignment before installing the new timing belt. (See comment above on TDC.)
CAUTION: Check the area around the belt for signs of oil leakage from the cam and crank seals, valve cover and oil pan. Check for coolant leaks from the water pump and water pump by-pass hose. Leaks must be repaired before the new belt is installed.
Loosen the timing belt tensioner.
NOTE: Some vehicles may require a special tool to reach tensioner mounting bolts hidden by components such as motor mounts. Some engines require a special tool to release a spring-loaded timing belt tensioner. However, most engines have a spring-loaded tensioner that can be operated using common tools in the following manner.
Loosen the mounting bolt(s) holding the belt tensioner but do not remove it.
Pry the tensioner away from the belt and then retighten the mounting bolt(s)to hold the tensioner in the loose position.
Examine the tensioner pulley for damage such as dents or cracks.
Spin the tensioner pulley and listen for a rattle or humming noise that would indicate loose or worn bearings. Uneven wear at the rear of the old timing belt could indicate a misalignment between the tension pulley and timing belt due to worn bearings. If any indications of damage or worn bearings are found, replace the tensioner pulley.
With the tension on the timing belt relieved, the belt should slide easily off the sprockets. Timing belts that have been used for a long time may stick in the pulley grooves and require some gentle prying with a screwdriver to release.
When re-assembling, pay special attention to "torquing" specs on the engine manual, particularly the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt which usually has a very high torque spec.
If equipped with a hydraulic timing belt tensioner, removal may be required to compress the piston back into the cylinder. Place into a vise and compress until holes line up to allow the insertion of a holding pin. Once the pin is in place the tensioner can be re-installed.
Mary
Under the hood, on the passengers side, on the firewall, there is a big black plastic box(shroud),may say battery fuse on it. pull cover off and behind it you will find a big black fuse,and the good old ford solenoid that used to be located on the fender from the 80's and earlier 90's, the problem may be with one of the two, you can try removing the small wire and jumping the solenoid with a screwdriver. tap across from small terminal to large( I think it's the pass side one that will cause the engine to turn over) remember to have truck in park and key turned to "on" position,( where it would normally sit if started with key then running.) if pass side terminal doesn't turn motor over try drivers side one. If engine starts then problem is in ignition switch, if just turns over then pull battery fuse and change.if it fails to turn over from either post, and batt. fuse is ok then solenoid could be at fault. just need any old ford top post solenoid from 1984 to 99(All exactly the same) if still no start, quit causing your self so much grief and take it to a shop. preferably a dealer as many smaller shops unfortunately just don't have the training for advanced electrical issues.
Super-Tech
easiest way.
remove timing belt
remove #1 spark plug
if possible place finger over spark plug hole and rotate until you feel air being pushed out.if filger wont reach hole use handle end of screwdriver
align crank timing mark
align cam timing mark
install timing belt
install crank pully to ensure timing belt does not "walk off" crank
install #1 spark plug and wire
make sure all electrical connections needed are plugged in(maf, crank position,ect.)
try to start- starting without accessory belts for a min will be ok
schurz04
You probably have the distributor on wrong or miss alligned. Check that first. Put the car at "Tp Dead Center" and allign the first culinder in the firing order with the drive gear for the distributor.
greenieman10
Agree with the previous answer.