In digital photography, how do I take long exposures without blowing out the entire seen?
I'm trying to take some longer exposures...5 to 10 seconds, but I keep getting pictures that are completely white / blown out. How do I avoid this?
2009-09-01T09:06:12Z
Thanks jbeth. So you're saying go to Manual mode and select the desired shutter speed, and then select an aperture that lets less light in? Thanks for your help.
EDWIN2009-09-01T10:22:23Z
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Unfortunately, I must disagree with jbeth. Simply going to Manual Mode and adjusting the shutter speed when using a small f-stop (f16, f22) will not give you a 5 or 10 second shutter speed on a bright sunny day. If you do this you'll get just what you're getting now - completely blown-out pictures.
Lets use the old "Sunny 16 Rule" to prove this. It states: "On a sunny day, set your f-stop to f16 and your shutter speed to 1/ISO." So lets set an ISO of 100 and go outside on this bright sunny day.
ISO 100
f512 @ 15 sec. - 10 stops f360 @ 8 sec. - 9 stops f256 @ 4 sec. - 8 stops f180 @ 2 sec. - 7 stops f128 @ 1 sec. - 6 stops f90 @ 1/3 sec. - 5 stops f64 @ 1/6 sec. - 4 stops f45 @ 1/12 sec. - 3 stops f32 @ 1/25 sec. - 2 stops f22 @ 1/50 sec. - 1 stop f16 @ 1/100 sec. ***** Sunny 16 Rule ***** f11 @ 1/200 sec. + 1 stop f8 @ 1/400 sec. + 2 stops f5.6 @ 1/800 sec. + 3 stops f4 @ 1/1600 sec. + 4 stops f2.8 @ 1/3200 sec. + 5 stops
Since no DSLR lens stops down to f45 or f64 or f90, much less f512, its impossible to achieve a 5 sec. shutter speed in bright daylight without resorting to a Neutral Density (ND) filter. ND filters come in various "powers" to reduce the amount of light admitted by our lens.
So if you're outside on a bright sunny day and want an extremely slow shutter speed and correct exposure use a 3.0 ND filter, set your aperture to f16 and your shutter speed will drop to 15 seconds and your picture will be properly exposed. Of course you can "stack" ND filters to achieve a "faster" shutter speed such as 4 seconds or 8 seconds.
WARNING: "Stacking" filters when using a wide angle lens may result in vignetting - darkening of the corners of your pictures. Its correctible with an editing program but its best to avoid it if possible.
Now if you're shooting at night I suggest buying the FotoSharp "Day & Night Exposure Guide" ( http://www.fotosharp.com ). I've used one for years and highly recommend it. Here is what it recommends for a "City skyline in distance"
ISO 100
f4 @ 8 sec. f5.6 @ 15 sec. f8 @ 30 sec. f11 @ 1 min.
Does it work? You be the judge. http://www.flickr.com/photos/drifter45h/899682567/
Most DSLR's can go up to 30 seconds and then Bulb (open for as long as the release is pressed). With some DSLR's you can also get triggers that will keep the shutter oopen without holding the button whne on bulb. Be aware that even on bulb, there is a limit to how long your sensor can be exposed ... sensors contrarily to film start to heat up when in use ... the limit is pretty high but you can;t do the equivalent of pinhole photography with a digital camera (exposing the film for a full year for example).
You need to buy a Neutral density filter that fits your lens' diameter. They make different levels that will allow you to shoot those long exposures, even in the bright of day!! They even have graduated "ND" filters that allow you to say, darken the bright sky only, so it will not be blasted out in comparison to the subject matter on the ground in the shade.
I added some links to some sites that you can learn from. and some images done with an ND filter.
You have a lot of choices: 1. Use a smaller aperture. I have one lense that will go down to like f/48. 2. Use a lower ISO. I have one camera that goes down to 80. 3. Use a neutral density filter or two or three... 4. Take the shot in lower light, like at night.
you need to adjust the aperture, which lets in the light. If you try to take a long exposure during the day when it is sunny and light out, you will always get a bright and washed out photo. Long exposures are typically for dusk and at night, when it is darker out.