I took it into Ford and they stated there is a leak around compressor. They wanted $700 to fix it. My question is: a. will stop leak products work? The leak can't be too large because it is still cooling well enough and b. how long will I be able to go without replacing the compressor?
Jordan C
Favorite Answer
There probably is a leak and well, if there is still A\C, it is probably a slow leak as you guessed. You can go to an Autozone type store or even Walmart and buy the proper A\C recharge kit and very easily do a recharge procedure yourself for $50-$60 dollars. It may last the entire summer and you will end up having to recharge it over and over every summer until the leak grows so bad that it's pointless to recharge it and you should go for the compressor replacement. From what I've heard the stop leak stuff doesn't work well for the A\C systems.
dwayne f
It all depends Moto.
It is hard for a mechanic to diagnose things over the net sometimes because we don't have the luxury of being able to look at it.
I will say this, if there is a leak at the compressor, then it is most likely the o-ring behind the mounting where one of the hoses is mounted onto your compressor. Because the compressor will never really leak anywhere else unless it is completely shelled.
So, a $2 o-ring, and the shop charge to recapture your freon and then shoot it back into your system after the o-ring R&R just doesn't add up to $700 to me.
With that said, you might want to go to another shop and have them look at it. Do not tell them anything except your A/C is not cooling quickly. Let them diagnose it on their own and come to their own conclusion and see if it is the same as the other shop.
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I even have this comparable difficulty. place a %cap on the open pipe, yet as yet another poster stated, do no longer glue it. Why? considering you're able to desire to have the potential to pour somewhat diluted bleach in there to clean something that would advance and plug the drain. I do this each and each spring to make confident that the drain is obvious. additionally, I do the comparable for the secondary drain that is going from the exterior drain pan to outdoors the abode. The trick there is to get the diluted bleach into the drain in simple terms - no longer interior the galvanized pan (it could corrode it). good success. One poster wrote: "the fan would desire to be pulling in the process the coil,,,no longer pushing by way of it" no longer inevitably . in case you have a gas furnace (as I do) the blower would be forcing air over the cooling coil, no longer drawing air by way of it - that's what produces the constructive tension and air popping out of your drain. One poster wrote: "do no longer cap that tee. you're able to reason an air-lock through doing so and reason water to overflow." in simple terms placed, that's impossible. The drain is linked to a unfastened flowing air flow - YOUR AC!