My horse absolutely hates his bit. And before I continue he has had a health check by a vet and his teeth are fine. So I want to get him a Hackamore or a Bit-less bridle but I really don't know what one! So can anyone give me the Pros and Cons about Bit-less and Hackamore and which one they prefer!? I am at a loss I have no idea of what to get. My horse is a 5 year old Arabian gelding. He is very sweet on the ground but turns into a head throwing bucking rearing machine in the saddle. I want to see if a Bit-less bridle or a Hackamore will help but if not I will have to get a trainer. So any how please tell me your suggestions! I am more for the Bit-less but a Hackamore might be just fine. Here is a Hackamore that someone recomended for me to use http://www.horse.com/item/ss-reinsman-little-s-arabian-hackamore/WBF23/ Tell me if you see anything I should know about whether this is to harsh or what. I dont have alot of money so thisis about my price range. I am a teenager and finding a job is hard. So thanks for your time!
Azeri2011-03-07T08:46:28Z
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Are you referring to any old bitless bridle, as in hackamores, bosals, sidepulls? All are bitless bridles. Some hacks are very strong and have the potential to fracture the fragile nasal bone if used in the wrong hands.
Dr Cook's bitless bridle is not at all harsh, is well-made and is an excellent product. It's what I first try when I've ruled out tooth/gum problems* and sore back issues. You do need to make sure he doesn't have back soreness, as bucking and rearing are very common responses to back pain. Does his tack fit well? Arabians are more sensitive than most other breed horses.
Here's what I do in situations such as you've described. (after making sure his back is not sore somewhere) - put a different saddle on which I know fits, or use a bareback pad (depending on how violent the bucking was purported to be). Put either a rope halter and reins or Cook's Bitless on. If all goes well at the walk, definitely put Cook's on and proceed with slow work under saddle training, gradually moving up to the trot. I'd do this in a roundpen or at least in a small enclosed paddock with safe footing.
See if someone has a Cook's you can borrow to try out. Occasionally you can find them online for sale.
* Actually I use it to rule out tooth/gum problems.
EDIT: The fact that he's so good to handle on the ground but changes so dramatically under saddle usually means he's in pain or discomfort under saddle, OR that he had a very bad experience under saddle either with physical pain or at the hands of a bad rider at some point in his life. Horses never forget these things, but most certainly can be retrained. Just be careful and wear your helmet, and make sure you can pull him around in a very small circle easily, as a safety measure.
[Hey Edge - it looks like when the Micklem is used bitless it's not much different than a side-pull. Is that correct, or am I missing something. I'd heard of these but have no experience with them. Thanks)
There are many types of bitless bridle, a hackmore being one.
I ride in Dr. Cook's cross over bridle. It has worked very well with my mare who is sensitive and very responsive (in both a good and bad way). My mare would sometimes become very resistance and fight my aids. The cross-over bridle is so gentle that it gives nothing to fight against. We will still sometimes have disagreements but they don't spiral out of control like they use to. I have schooled, hacked, jumped and hunted in this bridle with no problems.
Cons: The first time I rode in this bridle it was a nylon one which seemed to stick - When I released the rein aid the cross straps would stick in the rings and not release at the same time. I haven't had the same problem with the beta (fake leather) one. Riding bitless feels very different and I didn't like it at first. You'll have to give your self time to adjust. The biggest problem is the noseband. It sits lower than a cavesson and is fairly tight. I have gel pads for it (which can make it a bit fiddly getting it on and off) but my horse will still rub her nose after I unbridle her. I am now saving for a micklem multibridle which can be used as a bitless bridle which has the same action as the crossover but has been designed around the horse's skull so will hopefully be more comfortable.
I haven't ridden in hackamores a lot. When I have I haven't liked them much, but like I said it took time for me to get use to the cross-over too. The most success I've had with a hakamore was when it was used with a bit. The hackamore was used instead of changing to a harsher bit and was used to check the horse who was very forward.
EDIT: Some links
http://www.bitlessbridle.com/
http://www.williammicklem.com/multibridle.html
The picture shows it being used as a bitted bridle but it can be used as a bitless too.
I have ridden in a long and short shanked hackamore and a Dr. Cook's bitless bridle. I have also tried an egg butt snaffle, a full cheek french link snaffle and a curb. Of all of them I like the Dr. Cook's the best so does my mare. It is the only pain free bridle that they make. All other bridles are pain based. I also like the Dr. Cook's because sometimes my balance is poor and no matter how you tug on the reins you can't hurt your horse. It took a little getting used to but now I love it. I also prefer it over a regular hackamore because it is easier to turn and back up. Sometimes the regular hackamores caused her to throw her head. When I first got my mare she was pushy, bossy, and disrespectful on the ground. Under saddle she would spook, crow hop, and balk when I wanted her to do something she didn't want to do. It was a nightmare. I didn't ride that well and I couldn't afford a trainer so I thought I was going to have to sell her for both our sakes and it was breaking my heart. Then I found this article at horse&rider.com called Clinton Anderson's Lunging for Respect and it changed my world with my horse. It was super simple and easy to follow with pictures and everything. It starts out with basic groundwork and lunging but then its mostly about changing direction not just mindless circles. With just a short time of faithful practice my horse started changing. She started to treat me like a trusted friend. The spooking, crow hopping, and balking just went away by themselves without me having to ride any differently. I love my mare now and am grateful to Clinton Anderson.
Bits do hit the teeth when they are incorrectly fitted, allowed to over-rotate, or when gags are used. The teeth usually have nothing to do with the pain and damage done by bits. It is the periosteum of the bars that can be crushed, or become chronically inflamed and form bone spurs. thick necrotic areas may form on the tongue and lips from heavy-handed engagement of the bit. Ulcers of the palate may develop when the bit is over-rotated to dig into it repeatedly. A full examination of the entire oral cavity and all structures is required to determine the extent of damage done by the bit. If this is indeed the cause of the horse's resistance behavior, then you have to address the fact that it is the hands of the rider using the bit that caused the problem. You can switch to a bitless bridle, but the hands on the reins still have to be trained to use it correctly.
I highly recommend the Dr. Cook bitless bridle which is extremely mild while being very effective for control and signal. Most horses go very well in it, and i wish more riding academies would use them on their lesson horses to protect the horse's mouths from the uneducated hands of the beginners. It distributes pressures over such a broad surface area that no one area receives excessive force on the tissues. i've used most bitless options over many years and the Dr. Cook is superior to all of the others in just about every way. here is their site. you should go through and read all of the information presented.................
http://www.bitlessbridle.com/
As for mechanical hackamores, they function like curb bits with the noseband replacing the bit mouthpiece to create upper part of the vicelike effect from the leverage created by engaging the shanks as lever arms and tightening the curb strap and noseband around the muzzle and creating traction against the poll like a vice. Your horse must be trained to it just as a horse has to be trained to a curb bit. Some horses flip over backward if you try to just throw them into a mechanical hack without first training for it.
The only mechanical hackamore I ever have used or recommend is the adjustable fleece lined leather one I'm posting and I change out the curb chain for a leather strap. This is as mild as a mechanical hack can get and still very effective.
Your horse should be well trained to the body aids and neck reining before you ride in a mechanical hackamore.