my 2005 ford mustang gt is running horribly the dealership says it is the variable camshaft timing system?
They think it is stuck open and dumping oil into the camshaft chamber, but they want $1000 dollars just to find out. that's in addition to whatever it costs to actually fix and I am afraid once they tear it apart I am stuck with whatever they charge me and I have nightmares of $3000 or more.
My question is this, a friend suggested draining the oil and filling it with carb cleaner in hopes of freeing up the oil injector, any thoughts?
thisiscrazy706052012-02-26T11:19:32Z
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if you fill that engine with carb cleaner you will soak all the engine seals, destroying them. this will turn a potential $3000 repair into a $10000 one in a big hurry. Carb cleaner is only ment to be used on metal parts, not rubber or plastic like is inside of a modern engine.
That $1000 they are quoting is to open the engine up enough to look and see the problem. Reassembly will be another $1000, and then what ever the parts cost. You might be better off in the long run to get a newer car if you can afford it.
I am no mechanic - just have an '06 GT and remember a little about the variable valve timing pitch when I bought it: the engine control computer adjusts timing by controlling solenoids that open and close oil passages with oil pressure doing the work of shifting the camshaft actuators. SO . . . . your problem could be in the computer, solenoids, oiling system or mechanical problem with the cams. I would hope that the dealer's diagnostic equipment would rule-out computer or solenoid problems . . . . . but I'd take it to another dealer to see if their opinion is the same: were it in the computer, that should be covered by your emissions warranty if you are under 80,000 miles. It wouldn't surprise me if a dealer would charge $1000 to open-up the engine to determine a mechanical problem. . . . . . it also wouldn't surprise me if some dealers would charge you $3000 for a $200 computer swap that they'll also submit to FoMoCo for reimbursement. Not that I'm paranoid - I just know dealers like that.
ADDED: so I've checked on a couple car/Ford/Mustang blogs 1) not an unknown problem - although most reporting said it happened when the vehicle was fairly new 2) most had same symptoms as yours - - in most cases the solenoid(s) were at fault 3) one reported that his dealer had replaced both heads (under warranty - I can imagine how big the bill they sent to Ford for that was) 4) some, but not all, with solenoid problems said their "check engine" light came on.
If u go with the throat cutter dealers,the part won't cost more that $100 but they'll get u on labor.Ur friend got a good idea too.I suggest u go get 10 quarts of cheap engine oil,3 oil filters,3 quarts of the best engine detergents,5 to 6 Qtz of the right oil for ur GT.Pour the first detergent in the engine,run it for 15 min. & drain,then the second detergent with the 5 QTZ cheap oil & drain it,and one last time.Lastly pour ur best oil & check it now.Before u start get some lil blocks of magnets & stick it to the oil filter & pan & every time u change oil, change the oil filter too.It'll be good if u can clean the pan at the begining ofthe project.
I would be doing a search for TSB's (technical service bulletins) on this system
I remember seeing something about this but I can't remember where
But you would want to do as much research as you can before you drop a dime and I would suggest you walk away from the dealer as they charge to much and look what they are saying now. Sounds to me they want you in the door to a$$ rape you !!!
Do NOT do what your friend suggests, this could lead to catastrophic failure. And next time, do your oil changes as recommended as this is why things sludge up