Check engine light is on, car shuts off when I'm driving?
I have a mazda protege 2001, and as of right now it's parked in front of the house because if I start it, it'll be fine for about 2 minutes while I'm driving but then when I have to break it sputters and shuts off. The battery stays on, the engine just cuts off. Which brings me of course to the check engine light coming on, accompanied by the battery light and the oil light. I had my oil changed 2 months ago and I haven't gone over the miles until next oil change yet. So, I'm trying to get an idea of what it could be and what its going to cost me before I have my insurance tow it. So to recap: - Shuttering and then stopping once I start breaking/stop accelerating - Oil, Check Engine, and Battery light all light up when this happens - I can shut the car off and restart it but it does the exact same thing - The car stays on during this whole ordeal but the engine cuts off.
Other things to note- I've had the fuel pump replaced in the past year, and an oil leak fixed. The car has 117k miles on it.
Grandpa Jack2014-03-04T08:54:41Z
It could be several things, but my guess is that your idle air control (IAC) valve is malfunctioning. It could be very dirty or it could just be broken altogether. When your IAC valve doesn't operate correctly, you'll often see the symptoms you're describing where the car will run under load but will just die once you remove your foot from the accelerator pedal.
The lights on your dash are all coming on because the engine has died. They're doing it for the same reason they turn on when you turn the key to the 'on' position but haven't started the car yet. Those aren't telling you anything else. If the check-engine light stays on once the car is running though, you can have the code(s) read to make it easier to pinpoint the problem.
Other common problem areas you could look into if I'm wrong about the IAC valve would be the PCV valve being stuck, a major vacuum leak (especially in the PCV or EGR system), or a stuck/faulty EGR valve. The good news is, none of those is especially expensive to fix. The IAC valve can actually be cleaned out (assuming it's just dirty and not broken) by removing it and cleaning it out with carb cleaner. Just be sure to hold the motorized/electrical end of the IAC valve up above where you're spraying carb cleaner in it if you decide to try and clean it out yourself. Good luck.
#1. When you twist the ignition key one click before the start position *every light on the dash illuminates! When ever the engine stalls the very same thing happens.
#2. Go to the dealer of the car and have them change the fuel filter first.
#3. Ask them to test the fuel pressure on the fuel rail pressure fitting. This is a very inexpensive test BUT the fuel filter must be clean to get an accurate fuel pressure reading. The dealer of the car will know exactly what the fuel pressure should be.
You have said that the oil does not need changing, that's great have you ever checked the level of the oil? Not that I think it is the problem but you brought it up so I though I'd mention it. And have you noticed when you first start your car that all the lights you mentioned come on? So let me tell you what is happening. The engine won't idle and it stalls. The only thing it has to do with braking is the fact that you have taken your foot off the throttle pedal. So you may have a vacuum leak or it may need to have the MAF sensor cleaned, maybe a set of new plugs would do it. The cost I can't help with because I don't know for sure what is wrong.
Until you get the check engine trouble codes read you're just shooting in the dark. What you're asking is like going to the doctor and asking for a diagnosis without a checkup or any tests.
The trouble codes are a STARTING point, not an afterthought.