Why does my model train constantly studder and struggle?

Is it DC or DCC? It can make a difference. Is it only one engine doing it out of several, or are we talking about only one engine?

Rail material is important also. Are you using steel (less expensive) rail or nickle silver? Steel has built in problems with regard to electric conductivity.

Well, it is probably an electrical problem, but you've already made a mistake. Abrasives should never be used on rails. They should be cleaned with an approved cleaner, such as Rail Zip. Even this is not rubbed in, just lightly coated with a Q-tip. It dries without residue or the pitting and other problems associated with abrasives.

Check your loco operators manual. Does it have 'all wheel' electric pick up? If so, is the electrical connection between the engine and the tender all the way in?

If a steam engine model, try turning your loco around and run it forward through the curve giving you fits in the opposite direction. Sometimes side rods can make unwanted contact with drivers and cause momentary shorting, making the loco buck. If it runs through the curve normally, now you know it is an intermittent short. Whichever way the loco is traveling when the short shows, the unwanted contact is happening on the opposite side. That is, if a left hand curve the problem will most likely be on the right hand side of the engine.

If a tight turn, is the tender making contact with the engine other than normal coupling? This can cause a short as well, depending on the loco.

It can happen with diesel locos too, but the problem, if there, is harder to find, but it will still be an issue of where the unwanted contact is happening.

Check back in with the standard DC or DCC and the other info after running a check on the offending loco.

Without actually inspecting it my advise would be to ge a digital multimeter and check the resistance in the the areas of the issue. Manipulate the track while taking the readings to see if you have intermittent connections while the rails are moved.

What makes the connection to the track? Is it a solid finger or is it wire braid or the wheels? Is it spring loaded or relies on gravity or pressure. Ensure there is an exaggerated amount of force on the inside track connections. Make sure there there is no way the turn is too small and is binding or shorting the engine. You should find your culprit somewhere in there.

It could be something as simple as dirty track. Give the track a good clean.

Failing that, get an electric tester on the rails to see if the current is going through. Rail joiners are often inefficient conductors of electricity and may need tightening. Or you can solder feeder wires to each track piece. Slow and tedious job, but greatly improves reliability.

I (we with my two boys) have started our adventure as of 6 months ago and they both count the days of the week waiting for the weekend to go and do “our” thing. Thanks to this site http://tinyurl.com/ModelTrainsBeginnersR , staff, site and books, I was able to quickly get up to speed on the latest technologies and techniques without spending days if not weeks on the web to look for it (and most likely not finding all that you have provided).

I was pleasantly surprised to find that this hobby is still so active since I have not touched my boxes of trains since packing up the layout my father did with me in 1975. I can only imagine the hours needed to keep up with all of what you are doing and I salute you in your mission.

My two boys are saved from the video game frenzy for now but its up to the parents and grandparents of this generation to help the next generation. This site help us do what we can do better and we all have fun and at the same time educate our children…

If it's a sharp curve then it could be binding or the pickups are on wheels which don't make good contact because of the curvature

Their might be a short cause on some crossorvers the train like stops, and like does wierd stuff