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Stuck Rusted Brake Bleeder?

Does anyone have a guaranteed way to loosen brake bleeder nipples that have been untouched for 8 years? Here's what I'm already trying:

- Scraped away all dirt around thread, applied PB Blaster several times over several days.

- Tapped with small hammer, again soaking with PB Blaster.

- Will buy a micro-torch to heat bleed screw, then PB again.

Before buying new rear cylinders I will use my method of last resort: bleeding through the piston seal. I have a very small, flat, strip of spring steel that I insert into the gap between the piston and the cylinder wall. While someone gently presses the brake pedal, I push the top-most part of the the piston seal inward with the thin strip. This allow air and fluid to bleed out. One has to be careful not to damage the seal though. This method requires removing the shoes, springs and piston dust covers.

Another way is to hold the lowermost piston inside the cylinder, preventing it from exiting, and allowing the uppermost piston to completely exit the cylinder (as a helper is pressing down the brake pedal), letting trapped air out. One has to keep the upper piston pressed against the cylinder bore just hard enough to prevent it from popping out completely, but loosely enough to let air out.

Update:

EDIT

Although new cylinders are only $12 each where I live, it meant going to a store after removing the old one, rendering the vehicle inoperative. I was told by the auto store clerk that there are two types: double flare and ISO (bubble) flare, so I would have to remove one to be sure.

ULTIMATE SOLUTION FOR THOSE WISHING TO NOT REPLACE THE CYLINDER, FOR WHATEVER REASON:

I removed the brakes shoes (to avoid fluid ruining them) and pried off the rubber dust cover of the the topmost end of the cylinder. Be careful to not let the piston get pushed all the way out by the internal spring. Have an assistant press the brake pedal to slowly push out the air from the cylinder while you keep pressure on the upper piston, but allowing it to pop out enough to only let the air (and some fluid) escape. Press the piston back in as the assistant lets the brake pedal back up. Note: the lower piston must be prevented from exiting the cylinder by keeping finger pressure on it as you bleed the upper o

4 Answers

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  • 9 years ago
    Favorite Answer

    wheel cylinders are cheep y not just replace them. but if you really done want to all i can say is heat up the wheel cylinder around the bleeder.

    Source(s): mechanic
  • 9 years ago

    Forget the PB Blaster, whatever that is! Forget your "last resort" bleeding method as well!

    Disconnect the brake line, plug it with something clean if the fluid is to be saved. Remove the cylinder from the vehicle.

    Place the cylinder on a suitable surface and hit the bleed nipple quite hard on the end with a hammer! Don't worry about doing damage, it's already damaged, you need a replacement. Then using a tiny pair of Stillsons, vyce grips or multigrips, carefully unscrew the nipple from the cylinder.

    It WOULD be best if the pistons and seals are removed, and you may find the cylinder bore is unuseable anyway. If the cylinder has a flange, you may be able to support it in a vyce by the flange, to avoid possibly damaging the cylinder by hitting it.

    IF it is an aluminium cylinder, you COULD heat the nipple with a torch, but then let it cool. When cool, heat the CYLINDER, and unscrew the nipple.

    If something goes wrong, well, you've already got the cylinder off, readyfor replacement with a new one.

    There is NO WAY you should be pushing the seal lip with a piece of metal, you WILL damage it. I'm also surprised there is enough clearance to even allow passing a piece of metal through to it! Sounds like everything is worn out!

  • Dana
    Lv 4
    9 years ago

    Put a six point wrench on the bleeder and hit the bleeder with a hammer while try backing it off. If that doesn't work try your method at the piston. I've thought about that but have never tried it. I have used a torch and that didn't work either, burnt the rubber cups and still twisted off the bleeder. When you get your new wheel cylinder be sure to put some never seize on the bleeder so they don't seize up like that again.

    Good luck.

  • 9 years ago

    leave it alone and bleed the brakes from the other side ! you will have to bleed the brakes more but you can get the air out ! i did it that way several times when having trouble getting a bleeder loose !

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