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94 S-10 dies when warms up?
the last couple days my s-10 will start when it's cold but after it gets warm if you shut it off it won't restart until it sits awhile I know this can be many things so just start throwing stuff at me to check out I DO VOTE its a 4-2 auto vin-Z sometimes it has restarted and then died immediately and still has to sit awhile
it died again while getting ready to accelerate we then would not restart so we change pick up coil after testing what was possible to test and after replacing that it started right up now it run but I get code 35 (idle problem) found a vacuum leak fixed it and it still runs rough kicking check engine light on and off depending if it smooths out or not any ides from this point
2 Answers
- Anonymous9 years agoFavorite Answer
When cold it's in default mode and ignores some sensors.
Try cleaning the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner, not carb cleaner. (mass air flow sensor)
When it's dirty the computer can't "see" the amount of air entering the engine and won't supply fuel.
Change the air filter to keep it clean.
An aftermarket cold air intake or leak between the air filter and MAF can dirty the sensor too.
You can see how to get it out and back in at the youtube link.
Basically you spray the little wires in the center and don't touch them with anything.
(it could be things the Joseph mentions, but try this first)
Source(s): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDbAwfogMQ0 - JosephLv 69 years ago
without it in front of me it is going to be a little hard to do a diagnosis on it but i think you will find there is some one who has been through this before. from what you state we already know that it is not spark related due to the firing up when cold, but that does not rule it out, just places it down the list aways. vortec motor? most likely. the spider unit could be going south on you. this is the fuel injector "rail" located under the intake upper section or pleneum. if you can rent the tool give it a fuel pressure test to see if it is dropping off just before die out or if it is remainng constant, this will rule out the pump and regulator. since the spider unit is electrical and is in an area that does get "hot" is the reason i think it could be that part. another thing to check would be the oil sending unit, this tells the computer wethere to shut the motor down or let it run along woth letting you kow that you have proper oil pressure. check your coil pack also.
Source(s): x=mech