cam info?? 500 lift and 276 duration both at .50?

It's a Hydraulic cam. It will be fine in a 10:1 289 if you grind it on a 106-108 lobe separation angle.

I can make you something that will eat that cam alive from bottom to top and also out pull it by 1,000+ RPM on the top end. Drastic improvement in response, as well.

Build a 245mm converter with something like a 086 stator and a #4 or #5 Bowl. Give Michael at Freakshow converters a call. A converter such as this will be a fly on the wall.

The best cam for you comes down to your goals and what the heads like in terms of lift.

289's and 302's won't accelerate well with automatic transmissions and wide lobe separation angle (110-114) cams unless you are either dealing with a SMALL cam, a power adder, or a TON of compression. Wide lobe separation angles retard the intake opening/closing points in the piston's intake cycle and they will make the curve flat. These engines already have a flat curve because they have a long connecting rod to stroke ratio. This also makes these engines VERY camshaft and lobe separation angle sensitive. A little goes a LONG way. The difference in how the engine will accelerate with 2 identical cams like the one you mention, one with a 106-108 lobe sep and the other with a 112... You'd swear by your 'Butt' dyno that there was 100 hp between them. There is however, a BIG difference in the shape of the torque curve... which means how fast the engine will accelerate through the gears, among other things. It will also make a greater peak torque number.

A dual pattern cam is going to stretch out the top end at the direct expense of both idle vacuum signal to the carb (more circuit work to the carb in order to get it to idle clean and be responsive), and at the direct expense of low RPM torque/acceleration. If your primary concern is not wide open throttle performance but rather a combination of that with a LOT of street driving, then keep a single pattern cam in there on a 108 lobe separation angle and stay conservative on advertised duration and lift. Keeping the lift on the conservative side will help the velocity around the head of the valve... esp at low RPM.

All of the airflow and CFM in the world is completely useless to any engine if the carb does a bad job of fuel vaporizaton. Therefore, if you want to make better power (esp at light throttle/low RPM) and also wish to significantly reduce both the spark advance requirements AND the engine's propensity to detonate, (if you insist on a Holley/Demon style carb) then you will find MASSIVE gains in manners, drive ability, mileage, and performance with using one that is equipped with "Annular Boosters" rather than "down leg/Dog leg" boosters. Especially at part throttle. The engine will also run MUCH cleaner because it is running that much closer at getting true fuel vapor rather than 'wet' fuel (which does not burn and is VERY hard/slow to ignite and combust... Hence greater timing needs.)

There is ZERO need for anything larger than a 650 Annular Booster carb for a Naturally Aspirated street driven 289 even with the wildest of cam timing. You should also seriously consider a one inch thick '4 hole' carb spacer.

camshaftshaun@gmail.com

We used to call a cam with those specs a "full race cam" should be good!