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Anyone have any solutions to getting A front pipe free from an exhaust manifold without snapping the studs off?

I have A blown flange gasket and cant get the nuts free from the studs on A 1993 Toyota Camry xle V6 3vfe engine. the part 7$ but I cant get the nuts loose I dont want to snap the studs off the manifold of course and cant get A torch in there to heat it up obviously whats the solution?

Update:

I absolutely cant get A torch in there there's A heat shield for the 02 sensor in the way plus it's really tight. I believe I will try to cut the off with A rotary tool and some small cutting wheels. I wouldn't really worry about it because it's not that loud but there's the carbon monoxide factor that has me worried. Don't wanna be breathing that trash and the rear manifold is directly under my blower motor assembly on the firewall and it's cold here this time of year so I need to be able to run the heater. Thanks for the advice.

Update 2:

I finally got it, used A Little Dremel with A reinforced cut off wheel cut the nut in half. it took some doing but the leak is fixed had to go through some crap to replace A 7$ Part. Thanks for the heads up Guys. The whole down pipe is 90$ and I dont ever need A Mechanic and never will I have been turning wrenches since I was riding bikes in the 3rd grade. I only asked because some of you people on here have some pretty solid advice and I appreciate A little second opinion sometimes, support if you will. The reason I dont like Garages is exactly what someone said on here 600$ for A flex front pipe, not in this life time Try RockAuto.com LOL! Thanks again! Jeff Alan Sherman.

6 Answers

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  • 8 years ago
    Favorite Answer

    A die grinder with a stone. If you are brave a 4" grinder. Hit it with a penetrating oil first and cut it so that you can still get a wrench on it. A little damage to the threads can be expected. There is also a tool called a "Nut cracker" that splits the nut, but these sometimes are hard to get into the space the frozen nut is at (as if a 4" grinder isn't).

    http://www.sears.com/craftsman-nut-cracker/p-00904...

  • ?
    Lv 4
    8 years ago

    If a torch is out of the question, then rust remover and penetrating lubricant are about the only tricks left..... applied with patience. It may take several days to penetrate the rust if it's bad.

    Another option is to go ahead and snap them off and use a tap and die to make new bolt holes. Not sure if there is room enough to do that, but it is an option.

  • 8 years ago

    If you think there is room to get a die grinder in there there has to be room for a torch! Find a good mechanic before you need a $600 flex pipe/converter.

    Source(s): Mitsubishi Master Tech
  • Anonymous
    5 years ago

    I even have had that comparable difficulty and the cat converter substitute into undesirable and fell aside on the interior and led to it to glow. you cant rigidity it that way, it has to circulate to the exhaust save for a sparkling cat converter. or to the automobile lot and commerce it for a jeep with a undesirable fender.

  • 8 years ago

    Dont be scared just try undo bolts they break they break replace them no big deal one other thing use a piece of pipe for leverage over tools.

  • Harry
    Lv 7
    8 years ago

    air gun turned down, rattle back and forth and pray! i usually heat them. a torch should be able to be used.

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