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2003 Cavalier occasionally stalls and rpm's jump?
I have a 2003 Cavalier which will run perfect for a few weeks and then start stalling repeatedly for a few days, then start working again. Occasionally the RPM's will race as well up to 4,000 RPM's. It's been brought to the shop several times and nothing is ever found wrong.
I hooked it up to an OBD2 and I received a P0560, no check engine light is on. Again, it'll run just fine for weeks and then start dieing out when braking, idling, etc.
I found a vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator to the air intake that the end shredded (happens every year or two) so I replaced that. I had been having a roughter ride but now the car runs perfect...till it dies randomly.
I wiggled the air intake sensor on the air manifold and the car did it's race to 4000 RPM's almost immediately. I replaced that sensor when this issue was happening 2 years ago and that didn't fix it then, but I had noticed some oil and gas in there. (Replaced the fuel pressure regulator at the same time).
Without replacing a bunch of the same components which I don't think are bad, does anyone have ideas of what could be wrong? It generally only happens when it's cold outside (last night was 5F)
Alternator was replaced 1 year ago. This issue has been off and on for 3 years now. It's getting worse with age.
As a side issue, occasinally the car won't start and the theft system comes on. I need to sit in the car with the key out for 10 minutes and then it'll start. Not sure if these could somehow be related?
2 Answers
- Anonymous8 years agoFavorite Answer
it seems to me that you could have a broken wire somewhere i would start by looking where the wires cross by the exhaust if nothing there look by your starter if its not a broken wire or a vacume problem i wouldn't know what to tell you
- HumveetechLv 78 years ago
Not sure where you got that P0560, there isnt a P0560!!!!! Thats the problem with generic scan tools, they aint worth a crap. You need to go back & find out what the real code was. This shop you took it to, was it a dealership??? Not sure why people always either throw parts at it or take it to some hole in the wall joint that throws parts at it. All the money you spent up to this point, the car would have been fixed at the dealership by now at half the cost you paid out so far.
Need to know what the true DTC is, not using those generic scan tools either. Since I cant see what ALL the codes are & almost all generic scan tools will not show any U-codes which is communication errors which sometimes can point to a ground problem, I have to guess. I would say the theft is seperate & that needs to be fixed or that 10 minute learn will not fix it anymore.
If you touch the sensor & it acted up, I would have looked more at the connector, terminals & wires. Too many people on this planet like to man handle these connectors & wires, either that are rough with them or the stick very large round pointed objects into the terminals trying to test things & they end up screwing more crap up by doing that. I have seen the actual wire crimp at the end of the terminals fail badly. Replacing the connector with a pigtail is usually the fix for that which you get at your local dealership. Never ever use USED parts when it comes to electrical
