Clutch sticks to floor in 88 RX7 conv.?

Ron is for the most part correct, but is missing a few items based on firsthand ownership experience.

If this suddenly started occurring, bleeding the system will not correct it. If the pedal stays down, the Slave Cylinder has failed. If the pedal pushes down but doesn't disengage the clutch, the Master Cylinder has failed. It is common knowledge among rotary owners that if one has failed, its partner is going to very fail soon after replacing the first one. Replace both at the same time. Both are easy to do, using only a ratchet & 10mm socket and are either visible (slave cylinder, top of transmission bellhousing), or can be found by feel (master cylinder, follow the clutch pedal under the dashboard). Before doing this, invest in a set of Metric flare fitting wrenches because it is very easy to round off a fitting with a normal open wrench. I've had excellent results with these: http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-metric-double...

Read this, bookmark it and become a member: http://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-198...

Included in the above link is the Factory Service Manual. Stay away from Autozone and the shitty Haynes manual. I bought one when replacing the stereo in my FC the first month I had the car and found that manual to have several glaring errors such as glossing over the factory amplifiers. Returned the manual the same day and downloaded the FSM.

http://www.mazdatrix.com/f-hydral.htm

Mazdatrix is leery about trying to rebuild clutch hydraulics. Their experience has often proven correct.

I have worked on 2 Mazda B2200 trucks. Assuming you know how a hydraulic clutch works I'll go from there. The pedal is designed to STAY DOWN when the fluid connection to the pressure plate is lost. So it's the pressure plate spring return force going through the hydraulic fluid back to the pedal that pushes the pedal back to you after you push it. This is obvious when you bleed the clutch fluid system you need to pull the pedal BY HAND because it won't come back up by itself. If you are driving and this sticking problem suddenly happens you can usually pull the clutch back towards you with the tip of your foot and keep driving but you NEED TO investigate the problem. First check for low fluid and fill it up. Then check the slave cylinder ($13 for a new one) by peeling back the rubber bellows to see if fluid leaks out caused by fluid ESCAPING by the piston seals. If the master cylinder piston similarly leaks the fluid simply goes back to the reservoir leaving no evidence of a problem other than your clutch pedal with get stuck down repeatedly along with the truck wanting to go when you don't want it to ( ! ! ! ) so replace the master cylinder ($20). The master is so accessible I would replace it under any suspicions. Another quirk that happens with pulling back the clutch pedal is the truck STARTER GOES DEAD the next time you try to start the engine. This is caused by a stuck clutch master cylinder piston that causes the pushrod coming from the pedal to slide out of the piston and flop down against the piston apron so that the next time you push the pedal the piston goes further than before allowing you some clutch function to get out of traffic but beware it should FAIL FOR GOOD as the remaining fluid leaks out. The truck won't start because when the rod is resting on the piston apron the clutch pedal will not go completely down and push the CLUTCH SENSOR SWITCH for starting. All this being the case then replace the clutch master cylinder.

Rx7 Clutch

This Site Might Help You.

RE:

Clutch sticks to floor in 88 RX7 conv.?

It is hydraulic clutch it shifts ok but when i push it down farther to disengage like coming up to stop it goes to floor but it stays in gear and is still in gaged it has one slave cylinder at clutch and ne on fire wall no leaking and it full. i can't drive it cause when i push it in to start...

You just have to inspect the whole system. For starters the one on the firewall is called the Clutch Master Cylinder and the one at the transmission is the Clutch Slave Cylinder.

Start at the clutch pedal. You'll have to get your head close to the clutch pedal and look under the dash. You'll see the rod coming through the firewall from the master cylinder. Make sure it is still connected to the clutch pedal. Also inspect the base of that rod and see if you see any fluid leaking while you are under there. Any leaks and you will have air in the system rendering it useless. It can be just a few drops but you will see a small leak or the carpet is wet.

Next inspect the slave cylinder at the transmission. You would see evidence of fluid coming out that rubber boot. You can grab the base of the rubber boot and slide it forward if you have to. It's just a dust shield. Both the slave cylinder and master cylinder internally consists of a little piston, a return spring and a rubber o-ring seal. But them springs are small and their only job is to return the piston. Usually the seal wears out or the spring breaks. Both are rebuildable or you can buy a new one.

Returning the clutch pedal to it's position is done by a bigger spring pulling on the clutch fork inside the transmission bell housing. But again if there is air in the system there is nothing to push. Being unable to engage the clutch tells me either the slave cylinder or master cylinder is bad. You would notice the reservoir dropping a little too. You can see where the slave cylinder pushes on the clutch fork sticking through the bell housing. If the clutch fork moves freely with your hand the spring inside is broke and the transmission has to be removed.

It doesn't take much to get air in the system so don't expect a big leak but it will be obvious with a close inspection. After you replace the part you have to bleed the system. There are free online repair manuals at www.autozone.com