Is the 2010 Ford Escape XLS a good vehicle?

As long as it isn't the 2.5L 4 cylinder model, it's a decent vehicle.

The earlier generation of Escapes were very problematic, but the model year of the one you're looking at is pretty reliable for the most part. I worked on a few of these and in my experience, every problem they've ever had was fairly minor and most of the time easy to fix, but not always cheap unfortunately due to the cost of the parts. I'd say you would do pretty well with that one provided it hasn't been beat on.

Common things that go wrong on these vehicles (on the 3.0 V6 models):

The transmission dipstick tube o-ring leaks. There is a redesign of this component that takes care of this problem.

The ignition switch linkage assembly wears out over time. When this happens, you find yourself cranking hard on the key to get the vehicle to start. This is one of the more expensive issues to repair as it requires the purchase of a new ignition switch linkage assembly, sheer bolt, removal of the steering wheel and partial disassembly of the steering column to change. This can easily be a $300-$500 job depending on who performs the labor.

The EGR flow tube that goes into the engine intake ductwork likes to clog up with carbon which can get severe enough to set a trouble code for it. But it can be removed, cleaned with carburetor cleaner until all the carbon is out, reinstalled, and the code cleared to resolve it.

The rear hatch window lock actuator likes to go bad. This is another expensive, and moderately repair to have done, but it's not essential for vehicle performance maintenance.

The blower motor resistor goes bad causing none or just some of the blower settings to work. The resistor is cheap, but difficult to reach and replace.

The spark plugs and coils on the second cylinder bank near the firewall can only be accessed after removing the upper intake plenum, so its a little involved when they need replacing. 

The electronic throttle body goes out a lot. A replacement one is expensive, but it's easy to change and relearn to the computer.

With proper care and maintenance, however, getting 200k miles out of the vehicle isn't out of the question.

That depends entirely on how hard it was driven and whether proper routine maintenance was done. I ought to be OK. but without knowing that and without the proper evaluation skills and experience it's a crap shoot. The only logical and intelligent thing to do is take it to an independent repair shop [preferably a Ford dealership] that is not associated with the dealer who is selling it and pay for them to do a thorough pre-puy inspection, computer diagnostic and test drive. That will cost you $150 to $200 and is well worth it. If the seller isn't willing to have you get it checked out, walk away. If thewy are and any problems are fiound, then you decide whether to walk away or negotiate on price. I personally wouldn't gamble that much money without getting it fully checked over.

No to used Fords.

It has too many miles on it.  The asking price for an 11 year old vehicle with high miles looks to be very high to me.  I would not buy the vehicle.

Offer the $4800