Cars with turbo engine ?

They are fine just remember that a turbo setup is  extra parts and sensors that can go bad. As long as you  take it easy a new turbo vehicle  should last you 100k+ miles.

depends on the setup. Modern engine setups are usually well sorted. A turbo does take time to spool up when you open the throttle. Driven sedately the turbo is providing some boost leading to both more power & better efficiency across nearly the whole rev range. Driven hard a lot more torque & power is made. Anyone who doubts this remove the hose between the intercooler & MAF & see how poorly the engine performs with the turbo out of the system. Fuel economy: my Dmax 3l turbo diesel once run in returns about 8.7 l/100km consustently. My previous 3.2l Rodeo was used nearly twice that & was never below 14.5 l/100km

I had both identical cars, stock from factory close to the same age.  One was naturally aspirated vs the factory turbo.  Same engine size.  I was into fuel economy so measured on a certain stretch of highway...that mainly ran alongside a river. You could raft the river with beer in hand (so no Rapids or waterfalls). So a gradual slope. 100miles to the next town.  So filled up car in my town and made sure tire pressure was right and did the drive to next town and back.  I did know that if I drove at 55MPH that is the most economical speed(actually 53 is) but it is easier to keep the needle on 55 mark. Speed LIMIT was 60MPH and it being Sunday everyone was not in a mad rush to get anywhere so 55 would not be impeding anyone.  They can pass if they got ants in the pants.  No one did.  So I did the test run...in non aspirated car. Refilled it back up to the same level which was right up the filler neck (so at most I am out a quart of fuel in my calculations...using the same fuel pump from the same station. Saw how much fuel was used for the distance covered. Did the math to figure out MPG.

The next Sunday the weather was identical and I had insured the Turbo car.   Did exactly the same run and basically had no traffic on the road. I wanted to see how economical Mr. T was...comparing the 2 cars. Did the math again.

Results. Non turbo=75MPG  Turbo=35MPG That is without really activating the turbo.

. The reason for the difference is the fuel injection pump.  It puts out more fuel for the turbo all the time. Better to run slightly rich than lean.

When not in use it still ate more fuel than the none aspirated car.

. If the test was a hill climb then the Turbo blows the doors off of the non turbo engine.  It HAS to use MORE fuel to do it.  The economy would drop down for both as now I am stepping on the pedal harder for the none turbo engine too. Behind me it is mountainous terrain so I leave the valley bottom and drive halfway up to the ski hill(as that is all pavement). Non turbo would be half(a guess of 35MPG) & Turbo is 1/3(I guess or 12 MPG)- it would be expected.  Speed would be faster for the Turbo to go 60MPH uphill and accelerate too.  I never did THAT test.  

. Besides the turbo kicked the bucket and NO REPLACEMENT was available for the Fuel Injection pump and a stock FI pump would not bolt in.  So Turbo car went to the crusher. 

.  My naturally aspirated engine lasted a dozen more years.

.  Later versions of the car(1987 on) all came with Turbo.  There was no naturally aspirated diesel engines anymore.   The company VW got into hot water for claiming their cars were virtually emissions free when they were not.  No diesel is emissions free.  Lower in Carbon Monoxide than the gasoline models but higher in NOx and visible soot.

. Turbo is about the only way you can go these days as manufacturers make that kind of car.  The only choice you get is color and 2 door or 4 door. Standard or automatic transmission might also be an option.? 

.  All the big trucks that haul goods across the country in the 50 foot trailers are all Turbo diesels.  It is powerful and reliable or the Truckers would not have the added expense.  I have not noticed gas engines with turbo's as it is a costly hassle.  Those trucks are more short haulers.(not driving across the country)

 IMO an SUV does not need a turbo.  I look for reliability.  You are not racing so why have it?  For the little racing you do you can strap on Nitros oxide.

Who cares? Go electric.

2020 Audi A3.

2020 Kia Stinger.

2020 Cadillac CT4.

2020 Mercedes-Benz A-Class.

2020 Mini Cooper Clubman.

Volkswagen GTI.

2020 Subaru WRX.

2020 Fiat 124 Spider.

Turbo' give you a lot more power but it's not recommended to tow with a turbocharged motor.

The turbo charger is a way to increase engine displacement on demand. The only time the engine sees boost is under full throttle.

What to avoid is a vehicle that has been modified to produce more boost! Most factory units allow seven or less pounds of boost.

A turbo charged car has to be idled long enough to let the engine "cool down" before it is turned off. Failure to do so can result in seals and bearings failing in the turbo charger. This applies only if the engine has been operated at boost.

Engines should only be run at boost for short periods of time. Boost takes place only at full throttle or near full throttle operation. Often this is more time then it takes to get up to passing speed or merge speeds.

Watch the oil levels and make sure the oil is changed on schedule. Read the owners manual concerning operation. What I know is general and the car maker will be more specific.

The ONLY BAD is that the owners do NOT get that you MUST USE ONLY FULL SYNTHETIC OIL and NEVER VALVOLINE! the TURBO generates a LOT of HEAT< and if the oil cannot handle it the BEARINGS break down! I owned TWO magnificent TURBO AUDIS and I never had ONE LICK or issue with EITHER of them! But I used GENUINELY APPROVED Audi oil with the SPEC NUMBERS 502/505 on the OIL LABEL! This means PENNZOIL LONG LIFE, LL-02 oil! and MOBIL ONE 0W-40 SYNTHETIC EUROPEAN spec OIL! The GOOD NEWS here is that these oils are SO SUPERIOR that they MAY last for up to TWO FULL YEARS! MANY cannot GRASP that, but it is TRUE! VALVOLINE is NOT used by ANY FACTORY Anywhere on EARTH! it is based upon ASH and TAR and returns to A+SH TAR< WAX, and VARNISH and eve to HARD COKE! SADLY i have seen MANY TURBO CARS self destruct cuz they go to VALVOLINE for oil changes! >>>the TURBO harnesses FREE POWER from the EXHAUST and converts into  a BLOWER to force feed the engine! The TURBO looks like TWO FANS held in a CAST IRON shell with a SHAFT in between! IT has OIL FEED and RETURN LINES and in many cases gets COOLED by the engines COOLING SYSTEM! BUT THE QUALITY of the OIL is CRITICAL to longevity! There are TWIN TURBO BMW suvs OUT THERE and THEY are AWESOME and can last a LIFETIME or THIRTY YEARS! But you MUST use ONLY GENUINE SYNTHETIC FLUIDS with BMW SPEC NUMBERS ONLY! The FACTORY fill oil was PENTOSIN form Germany!>>>>FORD now has ECOBOOST< which is TURBO CHARGED four and V6 engines! The ONY people that have ISSUES with them are the ones that do NOT USE TURBO QUALIFIED OIL in them! PENNZOIL ULTRA EURO and ULTRA PLATINUM oils are made from NATURAL GAS and will NOT COKE over and BAKE in TARRY SLUDGE; and CLEAN As you DRIVE with it! THEY Both com e with 500,000 miles WARRANTIES for the ENGINE! so that is ONE LESS thing to worry about. I just LOVED my used TURBO AUDI! It was UNREAL! The POWER came on like a BULLET or JET engine and was NOT linear but INCREMENTAL! It would SHOOP you around corners on the highway and THAT was part of the FUN! I little NUDGE and you were ON YOUR WAY! SADLY the FIRST ONE was a 1980 USED CAR before  they use TOW SIDE galvanized steel and HARD steel for the BODY! IT left a CRAZY GOOD memory thou! It would GOBBLE up MUSTANGS with CUT OFFS and CAMAROS like a HUNGRY BEAST! The POWER would just NOT STOP COMING! IT would make a TURBO BUICK 3.8 DISAPPEAR in the REAR VIEW MIRROR in a FEW heartbeats! And the AUDI engine was ONLY 135 CUBIC INCHES or 2.212 LITERS! >>>I would NOT fear getting a TURBO car from EUROPE or from FORD or from HONDQ or TOYOTA! I would be SKEPTICAL of turbo  cars from GM and CHRYSLER< though! AUDI has proven itself OVER and OVER in RACES that really COUNT! >>>BUT REAL:IZE>> that the OIL is critical here! IT MUST USE ONLY FULLY SYNTHETIC OIL with LONG LONG molecules that can HANDLE the HEAT given off by the TURBO CHARGER! >>TODAY< it AMAZES me to read about people ENDORSING VALVOLINE OIL! It is a LOSER from the GET GO! it WILL ruin TURBOS! It WILL cause RUBBBER and SILICONE gaskets and SEALS to LEAK! IT WILL make SLUDGE and TAR deposits within the engine WORKINGS! IT WILL CLOG the TURBO oil feed and OIL return lines with HARDENED COKE and DESTROY THEM! BUT PENNZOIL ULTRA EURO and ULTRA PLATINUM will get you to 500,000 miles with a WARRANTY others cannot DUPLICATE as it is made from NATURAL GAS and NOT crude oil!  OIL CHANGES are ONCE a YEAR only! The AUDI TURBO is made SO WELL it is good for TWO FULL YEARS between changes! It is SO HARD to convince OLD TIMER technicians that to change the oil at 3,000 miles is a FOOLISH WASTE OF $$$$! AND that their FAVORITE VALVOLINE is a JUNK OIL that no factory will USE!>>>IF YOU GET A TURBO car TRUST ME AND USE only pennzoil ultra OIL! AND power wash your entire engine bay REGULARLY! OTHER SUPERIOR OILS are AMSOIL< LIQUI MOLY from EUROPE< TOTAL ENERGY OIL from a local SUPPLIER! They make oil for EACH country of ORIGIN!RAVENOL from Germany and MOBIL ONE ful synthetic for YOUR car maker! 

A turbo diesel is by far the best engine for a suv. Torque of. V8 at low rpm and economy of a 4 pot.

Turbo = More power.

The turbocharger compresses the intake air before it gets to the cylinders.  It adds about 40% more oxygen into the cylinder volume creating about 30% more power output.

Have you not noticed that most muscle cars are turbo?

I would not buy an engine with a turbo.  It is just one more thing that can go wrong.  Further they operate at higher engine speeds.  Most driving is done slowly at local levels.  Better to get a V6 engine over a turbo 4 engine.