Spanky

I have a gaming system that I have bought recently that is randomly locking up. The system The system is running XP Pro SP3. The mainboard is an ASUS P5N-E SLi with Intel Core 2 E6600 2.4GHz and 2 Corsair 1GB DDR2-6400 memory sticks, NVidia 8800 GTS with 640MB. I have downloaded the device drivers from the ASUS and NVidia websites. The hard drive is a 320GB Hitachi SATA drive, DVDRW from Sony. The PSU is a Thermaltake rated at 700W. The system has stock cooling on the CPU from Intel and the temperatures are averaging 50-55C under load for the CPU and 42-48 for the mainboard. The MB only has 1 HS for the NB and no HS for the SB. I have (2) 4" fans in the system, one on the back of the case below the PSU fan and one on the right side door.

I have used Memtest86 and it detects no errors but after like 80% through the testing the screen throws up random characters and the tests starts over. I know what you are going to tell me but I also used Microsoft Memory Diagnostics and ran it overnight and had no errors after 100 passes of the tests. I am currently running the Hitachi Disk Fitness Test since the drive is a Hitachi. No errors are coming up for the tests. The only tests that I can't find is ones for the PSU to see if the thing randomly shuts down and restarts the power .

I have a 2007 Chrysler Sebring with the 2.4L. I want to change the current halogen bulbs to LED. What I want to know is if I would be taking a risk of damaging a controller if there is one or wasting my time cause of a logic issue with the controller detecting the low amperage and shutting down the circuit? I have read that some cars have the CAN running the lighting system and I attempted the change with the high beam bulbs and the car would shut the circuit down while the car is in control.

The reason for the change is I wanted to utilize the LED bulbs in conjunction with my emergency lighting. I was going to put diodes in place to prevent backfeed to the car system.

I have a 2007 Chrysler Sebring 2.4 and I am having problems with the electronic control unit I believe. I purchased 9005 LED light units to replace the existing halogen bulbs and whenever the car is in control of the electronics, the car shuts down power to the LED units. If the car is off, the LED units behave like they should. Now, the question, is there a way to stop the car trying to shut down the LEDs when there is nothing wrong with the setup other than a lower draw?

I have a 07 Sebring and one of my high beam bulbs are not working. I have tested the plug for voltage and I have power. The bulb works if I jump the bulb. I am thinking that its a computer issue but not sure. I thought maybe its a relay but the owner's manual doesn't label the four relays in the box behind the TIPM (fuse box in engine compartment). Does the CAN control the lighting system? Its under warranty but wanted to see if I could figure this out on my own.

I have a 12V 17Ah SLA battery and I have built a separate system using the battery. My question is since I know amperage of 10AWG is 30A. Would have 2-10AWG wires be doubling the amperage or taking the amperage rating of 8AWG. I know I should go with a 4AWG but I have access of a lot of 10AWG.