CBR ROAD RACER

I see that this question has been asked in a lot of different ways before but I cant find the answer im looking for. Anyway..

Im turning my garage into a work shop/ get away from wife and kids cave. I know basic electric and im a professional carpenter so the tiny details of installing are not important. Basically what I want to know is I want to put 2 ceiling speakers up which i want to use with my tv and stereo.and i will be installing the audio jacks in the wall one next to tv and one next to sterio. From what i have found I cant do the following but if you could re organize my plan to make it work that would be awsome.

2 ceiling speakers connected together with speaker wire which goes to each audio wall jack which i plug in tv in one and the stereo in other. Now if this is impossible how can I make this work. Help is very much appreciated!!

Being Totally new to sound system upgrades to cars I just spent 2500 ordering parts and labor for a whole new sound system. I never thought of the fact that my car will probably not handle it until a friend of mine brought it up. Ok so im going to try to explain situation as best as i can. Also if someone could tell me what this setup would be considered of what the total watt usage is. I will greatly appreciate any help. Thanx so much in advance!!!

I have a 2012 Mazda 3 which is all stock. And now what I have ordered..............

TWO Subs with the specs of - Handles up to 1500W peak power (500W RMS), 26-200Hz frequency response, 4 ohms impedance

The Sub Amp with specs of Amp Power Peak (Watts): 570, PMPO Output Power: 3200 W, Rated Power @ 4 Ohm: 1 x 1.40 kW

4 Speakers with specs of Handles up to 225W peak power (75W RMS), 45Hz - 20kHz frequency response, 4 ohms impedance

Speaker Amp with specs of PMPO Output Power: 2600 W, Bridged Power @ 4 Ohm: 2 x 550 W, RMS Output Power: 1000 W, Rated Power @ 4 Ohm: 4 x 215 W

And I know there is a lot of crap about capasitors but i got a 3 farad one.

I am a new archer and I have been shooting field tips into me Rhinhart block target which I already have a very difficult time removing from target I want to test the my broad heads into it to make sure i'm sighted in correctly but I'm not sure if there are reasons not to such as Ruin target, dullen blades, not being able to take out of target, ect. if it matters at all here are the specs

PSE Bow Madness XS @ 60lb pull

Rage X-Treme 2 blade Broadheads 100gr. with shock collar system.

Cabelas Hunter arrows.

Thank you very much will appriciate any listed downfalls. and im sure it will eventually get dull but information about how many times it should be shot or anything of that nature will be helpful.

Thankyou!!

All Of a sudden when turning in either direction it makes a jerking feeling or even a feeling as if a tie rod was bent. I can even compare to I i was hitting a small pot hole in rhythm as im turning so if i was driving in circles it would go bum bump bum bump bum bump... I do not have to be turning nearly all the way so its not rubbing or something like that. I did not hit anything it just happened pulling into a parking space at home depot but not the whole ride there. What could this be?

I have been using braided line for a few years now and I have always used a 20 # fluorocarbon leader on my 20# power pro braid setup. I recently decided to set up an ultra light pole with 5# test red power pro which has a less than 1# test diameter now i dont want to use a leader cuz it would be much thicker than the braid cuz there is no way im using 1# leader. So my question is, is is a bad idea to tie the braid directly to the lure since its not abrasion resistant. I have always heard to use a leader but what do i do in this case? Thanx in advance

I bought a 2007 F-350 Diesel a week ago it is my first diesel so An not sure is this is normal: Yesterday (a week after purchse) while driving slow around town a (what sounded like a fan) kicked on and did not go off for like 10-15 minuts of driving the truck sounded like a bus or semi truck going up a mountain. There was no power change or anything elce but its nothing ive ever heard in my bosses diesel trucks. Is this normal it also did it today again for a good 10 minuts. I know it might just be a fan but wow. Oh and the sound is only there when on the throttle.

Bought a bag of 100 New Brass in 204.

Shot 50 so now I have 50 unfired and 50 fire formed

Measuring with the headspace gauge of my UN-FIRED case measures 3.565

Measuring with the headspace of my FIRED case measures 3.561

every case is consistant. how are my fired cases smaller from shoulder to rim that my unfired???

when I try to neck size my brass the collet does not even touch the case!! I tried screwing the die in ALL THE WAY for the hell of it press real hard now the case measurement with the gauge is 3.564???? IT GREW!!????? What the hell am i doing lol!! There is no mix up with cases or anything.

I finally got my brass in to make some 204 rounds its my first time using the Hornady OAL Gauge and I must be doing something wrong although I am following instructions right on and it feels right. If Needed here is exactly what I am reloading.

Remington Model 700 SPS Varmint in .204

Remington Brass

Hornady 32gr. V-Max

Heres What i did..

1.Took Bolt out of gun

2.Screwed Modified Case onto OAL Gauge

3. Placed Bullet into Modified.

4. Loosened Screw and Put device till case goes as far as it can go.

5. Pushes Plunger Until Gently Feel Contact on lands (I also used my Dewey Cleaning rod through the muzzle and lightly felt the bullet as it again lightly contacts the lands.

6. As the plunger is lightly pressing the bullet on the lands I tighten the brass screw

7.Pulled Out the Modified case and retrieved bullet from lands

Did this over and over probably 5-7 times and got kept getting this same problem.

The Problem is even without the bullet i can even see into the modified case that the bullet is not going to seat deep enough. We are talking almost no room at all. Bullet sits .08" into modified case.

What am i doing wrong everything feel right on!! I don't understand !!

After Needing New Coil packs and new spark plugs (which was done by a mechanic) Now that I have it back it sounds 75% as loud. I have a 02 CBR954RR with a Jardine Exhaust is this possibly correlated? Other people seemed to notice as well.

A Few Months ago I bought a Browning X-Bolt Medallion in 7MM Rem Mag (AWESOME GUN BTW) Brand New Out Of The Box I must have put 100 patches down the barrel lots with and without solvent and still had patches come out dirty. I mean the patches were just lightly blackened but still. Now That 100 rounds have been through it I still have the problem of not getting a patch thats pure white. I've tried leaving (safe) cleaner in the barrel for a while than cleaned it and that did not work. Is this normal?

Do You Guys Resize You Brand New Brass (As in never fired) If So Do You Full Size or just a use a colet die?

I Have Ordered My Gun and Scope And I would like to order my mounts before before the wait for everything else to arrive. I Know that I want the low rings if they fit and I was wondering if anyone new if the Low PRW Leupold Rings On the QRT Bases Will fit on my new 204 ruger setup.

Gun- Remington SPS Varmit

Scope Leupold VX- 3 CDS 40mm Objective.

Ok I have decided for my next gun I am going to get a .204 Ruger. For the use of Long Range Small Game (like in a previous question including grey squirrel) Long Range as in 200-300 yard shooting in the field and 500 yards at the range. I am down to 2 scopes

1. Leupold VX-3 CDS 3.5-10 Power 50mm Objective 1" Tube (CDS allows custom turrets to match you loads so if shooting at 200 yards you turn the turret to 200 yard mark and than use your cross

hairs

or

2.Leupold VX-R CDS 4.5-14 Power 40MM Objective 30MM Tube This One had an illuminated Red Dot.

They Both are $600 and Thats already more than i wanted to spend for this certain caliber so the other more powerful CDS Leupold scopes are out of the question. I guess what I am really asking is for these power, Objective and tube size. Which should i go with for long range shooting. If Needed to know at range i use the lead sled dtf and I will use a bi-pod for the field so anyone who has experience with these powers of scope for this yardage any info will be helpful. Is the power of my scope too little for small game at this yardage? And also I do have the first listed scope on my Browning X-Bolt Medalian in 7mm rem mag. And i do Reload my own ammo.

This Is kind of an addition to my last problem. Backfiring, loss of power, stopped starting, BUT I thought I had the problem fixed but than this......

1. Drained Old gas from tank ,Took Shop Vac and sucked every drop out.

2. Filled up with new gas.

3.Failed Start (4 days of trying to get it to start) Nothing at all but one or two "BLUB BLUB" besides the smell of gas coming from the exhaust. (The Sound Like It wanted start made me prolly use half of my starter life trying to get it going) :)

4.After Not trying for a few days because I gave up For The heck of it I push the starter AND IT STARTS IN LESS THAN A SECOND!!!

5. Like Nothing happened at all I let it idle for about 15 minutes and than took it for a ride about 7 miles (RODE PERFECT)

6. Next Day I go to ride it and it started backfiring like before it stopped working all together.

7.Hoping it will pass I let it idle and it stops and I go for another Perfect Ride.

8.Riding Now For A Full week of no trouble at all......

9.Bike's in idle and it does the backfiring thing Did not stop so i tried to go around the block to see if it would pass NOW once again 1/2 loss of power and feels uneven with some backfiring like the original problem.

10.On My way get some fuel cleaner at advanced auto parts the cylinder fires up again and now once again runs perfect!!!

Can spark plugs work some days and not others???

Can old fuel Still be a culprit somehow????

What The heck is going on!!!

Kind of a liitle continuation from my last quesion about a Really accurate Small Game Round That is center fire and around 1" groups at 200 yards. What are your guys opinions on the .204 ruger? Over Kill for squirrels at 200 yards? Accurate enough for head shots so they will be edible? FYI i'm just saying squirrel because they are the smallest I will be hunting. Gun will be for other small game such as raccoon, Rabbit, Coyote maybe Ect.

Preferably only well educated answers please. Being a well experienced hunter, target shooter, and reloader I am looking for the most accurate CENTER FIRE cartridge to use for LONG RANGE small game such as grey squirrel. (1 inch average groups a 100 yards???)I have many guns to cover all other areas in the hunting world including 22 rim-fires but I am looking for a challenge to take small game from 100 yards plus. I Have mastered the art of reloading so getting the best results of any given cartridge will be achieved. I have looked into the 17 Fireball and the 22 Hornet as some options. But is there anything more accurate without over kill? Would you consider th .221 fireball overkill? Also Gun recommendations would also be helpful. Thanx in advance a bunch!!!

I am looking for a good pair of polarized sun glasses for fishing. I fish of a boat and I also wade for fly fishing. I know that there are many REALLY nice ones for hundreds of dollars but i cant nearly afford them. Any one try and cheaper ones that worked well? Lets say around $50 Preferably cheaper :) My Last pair I bought were like $25 but worked crappy. Any input would be helpful! Thank You!

Im Going To List All Information I Have. My Local Shop Wants 3 Hundred Bucks To JUST DIAGNOSE IT!!! I Saved For Ever For A Bike Now I Cant Ride IT OMG THIS SUX!!

Its a 2002 Honda CBR954rr With Less Than 8000 Miles. It Is Fuel Injected.

1.Put Perfect Running Bike In Garage For Winter

2. Started It Few Times In Winter Just to have it running.Than Road It A Few Times That It Was In the upper 20's Had Such a hard time starting it every time i wanted to........

3. Put Fuel Stabilizer In Tank (The Recommended Amount)

4 Road It A Week Later On an Day In the 30's No Problems Took it on highway.

5.1 Day Later Took It Out Could Hear Extreamly Faint Tick In Motor In Idle

6. Started It Up It Back Fired A little But Let it Sit And Eventually Stopped.

7. Started It Up On a Warmer Day Like Id say 50 Degrees out. Loud Back firing especially when reving it up didnt stop so i waited till next day..

8.Decided To Ride It With Backfiring Went Around Block Back Firing Stopped (Happy)

9. Road It Next Day No Back Firing, 50% loss of Power Felt As If Cylinder was not firing

10. Tried to Start It Next Day (Usually needing to give it gas so it stays running in cold (at east for the first 10 seconds) Let Throttle Go It Stalled And Now Wont Start... I Have No Money To Pay for a motor diagnosis. Is There Anyway this could be something simple to afford?? i really want to go riding!! :)

Over all problems before it wont start anymore.

Light Tick (almost not noticeable)

Backfiring

Loss Of Power

Felt Uneven turning of motor (idk technicle terms)

Stall with No More start

I know Obvious Stuff Like Spark Plug, But Do All These Signs Agree With eah other for a diagnosis?? Please Help Any Imput would do..