?

Just wondering if these will fit in a 6.75" hole with an included adapter or if they will go in without an adapter with the long prongs, or if they don't have anyway of fitting in the hole the right way.

My friends' Durango has 6.75s according to crutchfeild but you can't really get them around here. I'm the resident car audio expert, so he's having me help him, but I've never dealt with 6.75s. I've tryed to get him to change his mind about buying Walmart speakers, but he won't budge, because he gets the discount for working there.

Here's the link,

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_...

Thanks for the reply(s) in advance.

Ok, so, I'm helping an old friend put an audio system in his Dodge Durango.

And I know hes going to buy all the stuff for it at Walmart, because he works there and gets a discount.

The one he works at only sells Sony, VR3 and JVC speakers, amps and subs.

So, I just want an opinion on the of the choices of brands we have to choose from for each component.

one for every component

Speakers: What is better?

Sony or JVC (I'm not letting him buy VR3)

Subs: What is better?

Sony or JVC

Amp: What is better?

Sony or JVC or possibly a VR3 one here if he doesn't want a lot of power.

I'm hoping he can get his discount at other Walmarts and we can go to the one that has Duel and Pioneer stuff, but I'm thinking I'm gonna get stuck working with JVC/Sony, which I've never worked with. (aside from head units)

Ok so, I have an 89 Thunderbird and shes having a little bit of trouble. 3/4 of the time it starts up fine and runs, but about 1/4 of the time, nothing even remotely wants to work, and I end up stranded.

When this happens my dash lights and head lights work fine, and are just as bright as ever(so i know its not the battery), but the "hmmm" sound when I set my key to the "on" position before starting it doesn't happen. (fuel pump?)

Last week I spent 2 hours messing with it in the rain to no avail(hooked up to my fathers truck so the battery didn't run out), but then out of the blue when i was going to give up, it started...

My father seems to get it going once in a while by just banging on the starter with a wrench or some other tool

From what I've been told it is the starter(looks like the original one), and it might be "missing some teeth" so that it doesn't catch on every start.

I was just wondering if anyone had any input on what might be going on here, or if you think I should get a new starter, or if I'm totally wrong and need something completely different.

Ty for your help all that reply.

My father just brought one of these home today.

2.6 ghz p4

Added a 20 gig drive, 512 stick, and connected all the stuff.

Now I got a Amber colored power light and fans spin, without the computer booting up.

I've switched the ram in a few different spots.

Poped out the CPU and put it back in.

Put the CPU in another Board and it booted up as 1.3 Ghz for some reason

and screwed with the CMOS batt.

I can not get it to work for the life of me.

Anyone have any Ideas?

This is the big desktop one, not the mini desktop.

I just got four 10 inch subwoofers bumpin in the back of my T bird.

I'm Looking for some good Bassy songs to play,

You know the stuff that will make you loose your hearing.

I mostly like rap/techno.

but whatever you wanna post I'll take a listen to.

Thanks all

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter...

I want to do this set up.

with this amp

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/Ca...

Will the 2x 2 ohm load make it a total of 1 or 4 ohm load on the amp,

or am I totally not understanding the way ohms law works and it is just simply 2x 2 ohm load

Anyways,

Will my amp handle the load?

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter...

I want to wire 4 single voice coil amps like shown above

all 4 ohms

Just want to get a second opinion on if this is safe for the subs and amp.

I think it is, I just want second opinions.

Two speakers are rated 500 max and the other two 600.

RMS is like 150 or so on these.

Thanks for the input

Here is the Manual for my amp:

http://74.125.47.132/search?q=cache:4EuPt_1ulFsJ:w...

When supplying power to 2 amps with a distribution block,

Do I need a fuse near the battery, and after the distribution block?

Or will the one fuse before the distribution block be enough?

Whats the minimum gauge wire I should use on these amps?

Going from the battery to the splitter block in the back I mean.

(I have 6 or 8 coming out of the block going to the amps)

And what size should the fuse be?

Here's the Amps

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/Ca...

http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Cadence_Z100-C...

Pioneer has dual 25 amp fuses and cadence one has a single 25.

I'm wondering what the best way to wire two of these subs(Below) up to this amp(Below). Looking for the biggest sound possible ;)

Amp is Mono, but has outputs for two subs.

Subs are in a bandpass box if that matters.

Right now I just have red to red, black to black hook ups, and I'm wondering what the best option is with these. Links/Diagram would be nice.

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-W252R-10-Inch-Sub...

http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Cadence_Z100-C...

Just a quick question, do they exist, I use Regular Fuses for my Amp right now, Fairly low wattage.

So do 50 amp fuses exist?

Pretty common on auto parts store?

Any higher than 50?

I Ask because I'm attaching a second amp on the same line.

And I live in the middle of freaking nowhere so maxi fuses are hard to come by.

I'd go check the auto store myself if it wasn't 2 AM

Ok, now before you tell me it’s a fan, or a capacitor on the Mobo or the ram.

IT'S NOT!

I have exhausted all possibilities, and found that a high pitch whine is coming from my CPU, however bad I don't want it to be so, I know it is the CPU.

I have RMAed the Motherboard

Tried with many different ram sticks

Tried multiple PSUs

Taken out the Graphics card

Replaced the Heat sink and fan

Taken all lights out

Unplugged All Drives and Fans (not the CPU one, I replaced that)

IT IS THE PROCESSOR!

Ok, now here’s my question.

Is there anything I can tweak in my motherboards Bios to Fix this, or even just make it a little less noticeable?

I do not over clock, but my processer has always been a hair faster than the specs say it should be. (2411 MHz)

Here is what I got for a motherboard and CPU:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N8...

http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?Item=N8...

I know it is generally looked down upon.

But is it really that bad?

I should be able to get decent sound if I move them around (in my trunk) or change the frequencies being put in to them right?

I have two tens in a bandpass box(Pioneers), 250 watt mono amp(Cadence z100).

Anyone have a suggestion of what to pair these with if I where using a Pioneer GM5000T 760 Watt max amp?(looking for maximum loudness outside the car)

Stuff i got:

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_...

http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Cadence_Z100-C...

http://www.carreview.com/mfr/pioneer/amplifiers/PR...

Simple problem: Computer emits high pitched whine...

Athlon x2 4800+ Toledo socket 939 @ 2.41 ghz (I am not overclocking its been like that forever lol)

nvidia nforce4 WinFast NF4SK8AA-8EKRS board.

Biostar 7100 GS

and 2 gigs of kingston value ram 400mhz

I've unhooked most everything from this and I still get the sound with only the psu/board/cpu/cooler for cpu/1 sick of mem

I've RMAed the board and the new one still has the whine. -.-

it defiantly sounds like the high pitched noise is coming from around the CPU, but I could be wrong.

I've learned to live with the sound, but if anyone can shed some light on my situation it would be greatly appreciated.

I have an 89 Ford T bird that's going to be cruising the streets soon.

In this car I have an Audio system. And I know audio systems take a bit of power.

I’m reading about deep cycle batteries, capacitors, and other stuff to help power issues that may arise.

My old car was a rinky-dink Dodge 600 from 85 and it powered my original system just fine.

My original system consisted of a VR3 head unit (45 watt x 4 max)

And 4 speakers.

And two 10 inch Pioneer subwoofers(600 watts max each unit) in a bandpass box with a 760 watt max Pioneer GM5000T Amp.

As of moving my stuff to my T bird I have…

A VR3 head unit (45 watt x 4 max)

And 4 speakers.

And two 10 inch Pioneer subwoofers in a bandpass box with a 250 Watt Max Cadence mono z100 Amp. (witch pounds harder and sounds better than the Pioneer Amp)

Now, in a few days from now I will be getting two 10 inch 400 watt (each) max Alpine subs from a friend of a friend. (Box has yet to be bought for these)

I plan on adding these to my Subwoofers to the back of my car. (Totaling four 10s, 2 amps)

I plan on switching the Pioneer amp back to the Pioneer subs, and adding the z100 mono one to the Alpines…

Now I’m wondering…

If I should “Borrow” my father’s deep cycle boat battery?

If I should get a capacitor? (If so which amp/sub combo needs it more?)

If should I drop the money for a car audio battery? (Not really a great option as I am a poor college student)

If a new alternator would be advised? (I believe it has the factory one)

Also almost any other input on my situation would be appreciated....