BrettH8sU

2003 Buick Rendezvous AWD, overheating. Replaced thermostat, thermostat x-over pipe, water pump, coolant flush, no visible leaks. Doesn't overheat while driving or revving RPM's over 2k. Does overheat while idling and stopped at traffic lights. Gauge reads overheating before fans come on and lower rad hose is warm and upper hose just getting hot, but shortly after fans come on surge tank boils. Loses heat from vents when idling and under 2k, heater works while driving and RPM's over 2k.

Michael S is a douche bag, he knows nothing and his bulls#it comments just piss people off. If you look at any of his answer history he NEVER gives a real solution, just talks s#it or gives some smartA$$ remark. I wouldn't lift a finger if I saw that old man getting his A$$ beat down and mugged in an alley, I'd just laugh and cheer them on. Read some of his comments and tell me what you think.

I also have a foul "dead animal" smell inside the cab, I've traced it to the washer reservoir, it has sludge stuck to the walls (decomposed animal?), how do you clean it without removing the reservoir? Final question, where is the drain for the AC housing located?

I have an '03 Buick Rendezvous and the cooling fans don't seem to be operating correctly. They only come on when the AC or defrost is on. I've hooked up my scantool and the engine coolant temp is 190'f with the fans on (turning on the AC) and the gauge on the cluster shows just over 1/4, with the AC off the temp quickly rises over 3/4 on the gauge with a little steam on the driver's side windshield and up around 250'f on the scantool and the fans never kick in and I don't want to overheat it to see if they ever do. I turn the fans back on so I don't overheat the car, but was wondering if this is normal operation with this rig. Where are the locations of the ECT sensors, I also would like to know what the rage of the temp gauge is.

I have a '97 Pontiac Montana and the front right parking light is always on and too bright (only when the lights are supposed to be off), I've seen several Montana's with the exact same problem and would like to see if anyone has ever diagnosed this problem. I've inspected the turn signal assembly and have found it has gotten very hot (plastic starting to melt) but the voltage at the plug is only 12v (same as the other side). I also have a problem with the wipers, they don't clock to the proper position, when off they come all the way up. I've install a new wiper motor assembly and it still does the same thing, I've also tried removing the wiper arms and re-clocking them but they then hit one another, this too is a very common problem and I would be very grateful if anyone can help with these problems because I'm trying to sell this van to buy my girlfriend a new one and I hate fcuking people over.

I'm swapping out the 3.0l Vulcan V6 on my '97 Ford Taurus and I just need to know what all I have to remove from the front of the engine to have enough clearance to get it out the top so I don't have to remove the entire sub-frame and transmission. I've seen it done several times I just never paid enough attention to all the details.

Got a 2000 Ford Ranger 4x2 super-cab with a 4.0L and automatic transmission that is running too cold (about 140 deg f). There is a code that says "ECT temp too cold for closed-loop fuel control". I did a tune-up on it and changed the thermostat (thought was sticking open). When you squeeze the upper radiator hose it is firm and doesn't compress. The upper radiator hose is hot and the bottom one is cold. The radiator cap is cold. The vehicle was towed behind an RV for the majority of it's life and just received it's first scheduled maintenance. The only thing I can think of is the radiator is plugged, can you help?

I have a '92 Eagle Talon Tsi with a stlightly modified engine (still have all emissions equipment on it) and the dipstick keeps popping out under full ecceleration (I have replace the PCV valve twice, its not that nor the hose). I have the modified the MAF and upgraded to a Walbro 255 and raised the boost to 15-20 psi. The car has plenty of power but the oil sprays onto the exhaust manifold. The BISS (base idle set screw) has a leak in the o-ring and idle occilates up and down, any ideas on a replacement?