Methereaper

So, i know the engine in my 92 Tracker is small, not much for horse power or speed, but i m going to be rebuilding it soon, so while its out i want to do what i can to give it a bit more oomph.

Im not building it to be an offroad mudder since its only the 2wd model, so its going more for a street kind of build.

So, i know the engine in my 92 Tracker is small, not much for horse power or speed, but i m going to be rebuilding it soon, so while its out i want to do what i can to give it a bit more oomph.

Im not building it to be an offroad mudder since its only the 2wd model, so its going more for a street kind of build.

About a week or so ago i bought an EL250 for $220 with less than 10k miles. Despite a layer of dust from sitting for 3+ years, everything looks great. Prev. owner said he had it running for awhile and drove to run it through the gears before he began pulling panels to paint it and lost interest. Said all it should need is the carbs cleaned.

So, me and my brother cleaned the carbs and since the battery was junk we put a charger on it and tried to crank it over. At first the button wouldnt work, so we jumped the solenoid. Several attempts later the button began to work so we used that but nothing happened.

Checked the fuses and they were all good, the plugs look near new, and the plug wires were ok. The carbs were getting fuel so we figured it was a spark problem and checked the coils and they weren't putting any to the plug.

We plugged in an old coil from a four wheeler just to see if it would spark and it did when it slipped from my hand and hit the valve cover. Tried it on both sides and it sparked both times, so it's getting power.

I ordered 2 coils from ebay and they should be here in the next couple days but i want to know if there's anything else i can try in case it still won't run.

Does it need a battery connected for it to run?

If the CDI was bad would it still be getting power to the coil wires?

It cranks over nice, even and fast, but would a bad starter solenoid keep it from starting?

Any help is appreciated and i'll update when coils arrive.

Alright, here's the problem.

I was running a 500watt Lightning Audio Strike amp to a Pyle Quoobz box before i upgraded. I have small gauge power wire (8 or 9) running to a 2000watt quantum power cap. From the cap to the amp it's 1gauge.

I had bought a sondpex 2 10" box with neons and mid/high speakers because l liked the way it looked. My brother bought me a Boss bundle from ebay to replace the blown speakers. It now has 2 10" 2100watt phantoms in it with the 1600watt amp that came with it.

Wire it up, didn't bother bridging at the speakers in case i forget and bridge at the amp in the future, and go out to put it in. It would play for awhile, but when i'd turn the volume up it'd shut off. My brother unhooked one side and it would play for a lot longer, so i double checked the wiring and tried again.

Same thing.

We plug in the remote and it suddenly starts working beautifully. Turns up real loud, neons flash, neighbors come outside, the usual.

So, I unhook everything to hide the wires and all, turn back on, works great. The next day it's doing the same thing. I've ran two 500 watt amps to two kicker cvr comp 12's before, so i'm pretty sure the wiring can handle this, but idk.

The amp came with an 8gauge wiring kit, should i try running that just to see? My battery had died awhile back, but it's been fine since the recharge, alternator puts high 14 to low 15 volts according to cap.

Car is a 1992 Geo Tracker. No big 3, but it's worked b4.

Thanks.

With my Integra nearing completion, i'm starting to plan out my '92 Tracker project.

I had originally planned to drop a v8 305 my brother had laying around in it, but after talking with the owner of Hot Imports near our house, he made a few good points.

The Trackers are light as they are, dropping a v8 in it would only make it heavier, and be a headache.

So, here's what i plan to do.

I want to find a tuner inline 4 (B16, B18, or a 4G eclipse engine) and find a way to drop it in while keeping it rear wheel drive.

I'm gonna be taking the body off to do rust repair anyway, so i could drop everything in while it's off. The Tracker's strut mounts are actually part of the frame and both are in great shape, so it should be able to handle what i'm doing.

Aside from the suspension, brakes, and fuel system that i'd need to upgrade, what would i have to do to make one of these engines bolt to a rwd tranny? It has the TH-180 in it, but i'd assume i'd have to find a new one.

Also, if there are any other inline 4's that are rwd and have an aftermarket parts availability that would be better suited to what i am trying to do, i'd appreciate your input.

I'm aware this isn't going to be a year and it's finished build, but i'm not going to junk it, so i have nothing but time.

Anyway, thanks for looking, any help is appreciated.

At Westforth, the only local gun shop i care to deal with, they have a few handguns i was looking at.

First is a blue and white Cobra .380.

It's the first "Smurf" gun i've seen by them and it's pretty interesting. It's got a decent amount of weight and size which is good because i have normal to large hands and i think i'd be able to control it better. My brother had a Taurus .40 cal and i barely could hang on to the compact frame, it kept wanting to jump.

It's $199, which i think is a little much, but it seems new if not in great shape.

The second is a Beretta 950BS .25 cal. It costs as much as the Cobra, $199.

I didn't pick it up and look at it, but i did my share of research when i got home.

It has a flip-up barrel, i believe it's an 8+1 capacity and is a little small. I know Beretta's are higher quality than Cobra, and that's the main selling point to me right now.

I don't CC right now, so i'm just looking for a range gun pretty much. Self-Defense, I know the .25acp is a little underpowered, but there are "legends" of them saving lives. And should an intruder break in to my house, i have a rack full of rifles and my bro's 9MM Derringer over my bed, so the Beretta wouldn't be the first thing i grab.

I think the colors of the Cobra would be impractical for CC, but it has it's appeals.

I am a fan of Sub-Caliber rounds because of their accuracy. A skilled shooter with a .40 is just as dangerous a novice with a .25, IMO, because of the recoil of the smaller caliber, or the lack thereof.

I don't want to start a debate, and i know that a bullet is a bullet, no one wants to be hit with any caliber, but i'd like the option of a range gun being reliable.

So, i'd like to ask anyone with experience to either firearm to chime in and help me out a little. A lot of people swear by Cobra's, but at the end of the day a Beretta is a Beretta.

So, i seen videos about horses being added to MC 1.6, so i decided to update my working 1.5.2. Well, after doing so, my launcher changed from it's old style to a new one which seems pretty straight forward.

I'll try to add a pic later, but it has a drop down menu with a bunch of different version on the side and it installs whichever version you want.

I selected 1.6.4 Forge from the list and it installed successfully. After running it once, I installed my TooManyItems mod for 1.6.4 to the mod folder and it started normally, but would crash when i tried loading my worlds or creating a new one.

Hit 'Force Clean' and it set it back to normal. Tried again, this time adding the internals of the folder to the '1.6.4 jar' and it would still crash on world select.

Force Clean again and tried it vanilla. Would start, crash when i select world.

'Force Clean' and i selected 1.6.4. Installed, started up, and no crash when i select my world. Walked around a little to check everything and it was fine.

My computer's goofy on some things, so if this is something that i have to wait until an update, it's not a big deal. I just like being able to build things without having to collect the material.

IF there's something that you think could help, believe me, i'm all ears.

Thanks for any input.

Just a spur of the moment thought.

Like, will they continue living as the donor, remember the donors family and memories, or carry on as themselves?

Think i'll make a story of this on ff or fp...

Your thoughts?

Just bought a '90 Acura Integra hatchback, and it needs some work.

The most important right now is the rear struts and coils done so i can get an alignment, or at least try to do it myself.

Anyway, what i'd like to know is on what cars are the rear suspensions interchangeable? We're going to nearby Pick n Pull this weekend, and they said they have a '92 on the yard but it's been there a couple months, so if there are a couple Honda's we could look at while we're there, that'd be great.

The Coils at PNP are pricy, but i found a full set of lowering coils on ebay for $48, so the main parts i need to know are the rear struts and the gas tank.

Any help is appreciated.

I had a decent setup in my car, it was a single 12" Kicker cvr (400watts) in a sealed b-box running off an Amercan Legacy 500watt amp with a 2 farad cap..

It sounded great, got looks everywhere i went. Well, i got greedy and bought an amp and 2 12" box from a yard sale.

The rockfords in the box were blown, so i put both my cvrs in it and ran the new amp, an Lightning Audio Strike s2.500.whatever.

Really only bought the amp cause they wanted $100 for it with the box and i talked them to $40 for everything, even wires.

Any, box is ported with no divider.

So, i knew the 500watt amp wouldnt power it but i figured id try it. They both sounded awful, so i hooked my old amp up to the sub i used to use and unhooked the other sub.

It has the same sound, and when i turn the volume up too high i have to power off the radio to get the amp to turn back on after it goes to protect.

My brother said ported boxes take more power to get a better sound, and it could be over working the amp.

What could the problem be? I was thinking of running both the amps, each to a sub n see if that helps.

Any help is appreciated.

I have a 75 Duster that i'd love to play some old music in when i get it drivable in the summer. I liked some of the music in Christine, "I'll Forever Love You" in particular, but wondered what music you listen to when you cruise, or just relax.

Something more along the lines of oldies. Rock, Swing, Concert Hall, whatever.

I have a vary diverse taste in music, so far my list is,

Chuck Berry - Ridin' Along In My Automobile

Reverend Horton Heat - Red Rocket Of Love

Rolling Stones - Can't You Hear Me Knockin'

Metallica - Leper Messiah

Metallica - Orion

Metallica - The Call Of Ktulu

Metallica - The Unforgiven 1, 2, and 3

Ritchie Valens - Come On Let's Go

Buddy Holly - Crying, Waiting, Hoping

Led Zeppelin - Stairway To Heaven

The Who - Eminence Front

I think it'd be cool to hear everyone's list and even find some gems lost on most of my generation.

Thanks for your input.

I was hoping to do the Swift 16v head swap, but i'm beginning to think my engine is an 8v.

After reading some online posts, people were describing their engine that looked like mine and others were saying it's 8v.

It's too late for me to go out and check my vin. i know the 8th digit is 8 for 8v and 6 for 16v. My aunt owned it before me and i know they didn't swap the engine. Everything major she had us do to it including timing belt.

I'll describe my engine and maybe someone will know it.

Has EFI Electronic Fuel Injection on my intake, long silver and goes toward the driver's side. Valve cover's black, looks to be steel, don't see injectors on it. Spark plugs go diagonally into the block.

Alot of people were saying the 16v had the spark plugs go into the valve cover.

My idea was to take the Suzuki Swift 1.3l DOHC head and putting it on my block since the blocks are nearly identical.

Were the 8v and 16v blocks the same? Would the conversion still work?

Don't know much about this, my brother's the car guy and we have instructions i found online from someone who's done it.

Ok, thanks in advance. I'll check the vin tomorrow.

Yeah, yeah, "Here's more Tracker questions..."

So, i was planning to do some work to my Tracker.

I looked up the prices for a turbo and intercooler from a nearby PickNPull, $50 for Turbo, $50 for Intercooler, and misc tubes hoses etc.

I was excited about a turbo then i looked into everything you have to do before and after. I just had a new exhaust put on, including a repaired exhaust manifold, so i'm starting to rethink the turbo.

The engine needs front main seals, rear main seals, valve cover gaskets, trans pan gaskets, pretty much everything imaginable except head gasket surprisingly. A turbo would blow it up in an instant, i'm sure.

I had also considered doing a V6 or V8 swap, as i've seen many successful swaps done, but those would be more expensive and time consuming.

So i was sulking around on the internet when i heard something about a 1.6L DOHC Suzuki Swift 16valve head being able to bolt onto a standard Suzuki 1.6L 16 valve tracker block, which mine is.

My question is would that be possible, and would it result in more performance. Also, would the entire Swift DOHC engine bolt to my transmission? I believe it's a 3-speed GM Turbo-Hydromatic 180 trans.

I would like honest but friendly help. If you are gonna call me an idiot for being cautious and asking before i do something stupid, i would rather you be courteous and offer help.

Thanks in advance.

Went to a shop to look for a mosin nagant. When there wasn't any, a beat up old Colt .38 special caught my eye, or more accurately, the price. $150 for a beat up colt, maybe a 1895? looked sorta like it.

I called the guy over, he handed to me and i began to remark on it's *cough* beauty.

"Is it this price because of condition?" i asked.

he shrugged, "Someone else must have took it in, i don't remember it"

he looked at the tag on it and read aloud that it had a bulged barrel.

I had looked down and checked the bore prior, and when he finished, i took a look at the outside. sure enough, there it was. a bulge on the barrel.

It wasn't too large, since i didn't notice it to begin with. i told him i'd come back and look on my birthday and almost immediately began researching it.

What i'd like to know it, is it okay saftey wise?

I, personally, haven't found a revolver i'd like to conceal carry, so i'd just be buying it primarily as a range gun, meaning accuracy isn't an issue.

I, however, would appreciate the thing not exploding in my face.

Also, i believe a bulge comes from a jacket or a light load stuck in the barrel and then firing anyway, so wouldn't the gun have blew apart when the bulge was created if it was going to?

I've read that it can be okay to shoot, where some say it's dangerous. since I have little knowledge when it comes to these things, any help would be appreciated.

Thanks for reading.

After a gun show, i went to a store i frequent and ordered an Mossberg 715t .22lr rifle. Paid half, they ordered it, it came in a week later, paid rest, did paperwork, took it home.

I got the carry handle edition with a 25rd magazine. I loaded the mag, threw it in the rifle to see how it cycles.

Pulled bolt back, put the saftey on, and it slid forward halfway and the round jammed on something. Pulled bolt back, pushed bullet back into mag and tried again. same problem.

Ejected mag, emptied shells and only loaded three or so. Tried again, same issue. Wiggled the mag, and it slid into the chamber. ejected, next round jammed. pretty much tap the mag and it loaded the rest. Checking the tips, the lead seemed to be pretty chewed up on the edges.

Angry, i went out back with five cci shotshells in the clip. threw a bottle into the woods and fired at it, manually chambering each round. It fired great.

I'm gonna take it back to the shop in the morning, but for now, i'd like to know what you think the issue might be.

I heard the problems were similar with the 702 donor guns.

I was using Federal Lightning rounds before the shells. Just found out they make actual cci tactical .22 rounds, so that may be me only option.

Thanks. If i find out anything from shop i'll update it here.

A gun shop i've been frequenting lately had a couple of older rifles that caught my interest.

First was a german Mauser model 189x or 191x, don't remeber the year exactly. It was $169.00, looked maybe from WWI or WWII. It's chambered in 8mm, and is bolt operated.

I was looking at it today and was working the action and it felt a bit loose when it was out. The guy i was with said it was worn out and could be dangerous.

The guy behind the counter put it up and handed me a mosin rifle. It's bolt did the same thing, making me think he was saying it's common in them.

Long story short, are the mausers good rifles and are loose bolts a danger to the shooter?

I only own an .22lr AR-7 so i've been looking for another rifle to take to the range now and then or maybe hunt with. Something more entertaining than a .22.

Thnx

I have and 92 Geo Tracker and most of the tires are dry rotted to the point of blowing out. It already needs a trans, which i'm getting soon, so i don't have enough to get four new tires.

Absent mindedly, i was thinking of spraying some flex seal on the tread of the tires to increase the grip and help corner better at higher speeds, then i thought "why not spray the rotted areas?"

I just wanna know if it would work for awhile until i get new tires, or if a chemical in the spray would cause the tire to worsen.

Also, if you think the flex seal grip idea would work XD

Thanks for your time.

My brother has an 1996 Eagle Talon that has become a bit of a hassle.

After finally getting drivable, he let me borrow it for about a week and we hop in it one day to find the battery light turn on after driving a ways down the road.

Sunday we spent a better part of the day removing the old alternator, believing that the problem, and realized the one we had was too different to work in it.

After running to Advanced, we bought a new one with a lifetime warranty and installed it. after charging the battery a while, we started the car and let it idle for a while.

The light was back on. he checked a fuse in the box under the hood and he said it was fine.

I believe it is the system in the car (sub, 1000watt amp, and capacitor) draining power before it can be replaced, but i don't see this as a problem with a new alternator.

Someone at school said it may need to be "reset" by removing a battery cable for awhile.

When i came home i unplugged it and haven't hooked it up yet. Could there be any thing else to try before removing the new alternator, i'm sure you know what a pain it is, assuming the reset doesn't help.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

I am having trouble palm muting on my new guitar. when i attempt to do so it makes a ping instead of a chugging sound.

I can mute fine on my old guitar, so i know it's not my technique. possibly an intonation problem?

New guitar is an Cort Effector with a non locking floating trem. has standard strings and has a nice, loose setup. it plays great other than the muting, so i don't want to mess with the setup unless it's necessary.

Can you think of anything to try that won't be so drastic a change?

I have a set of INF pickups as a last resort, but would like to avoid that...

For reference, my old guitar is an B.C. Rich Beast with a locking Floyd Rose and heavy 11's on it.

Any help would be appreciated.

Okay, I have a 150cc Sunl Adventure that i've been driving for about half a year and i decided to go mad doctor on it and make a stereo.

I tried storing a bunch of speakers in the cargo area, but it became a hassle so i went ahead and built a sort of stereo.

It consists of a circuitboard with inputs for a memory card, audio jack, and a charging port. i have two small eclipse speakers wired to it.

I was happy to find out my redneck makeover works great, however, when i start the motor, it sounds like it's cutting in and out.

I run my phone into it, and it sounds like a cd player playing a scratched CD, it keeps skipping.

It's not a power issue, it has it's own battery and is in no way running of the power of the scooter at all. I had considered wiring it into the power hoping it would help, but i am having battery issues with the scooter, and my bro said it sounds like a vibration issue.

Is there any way to properly seal it to cancel the vibration?

I don't have it bolted in, but it's held in with alot of caulk and hot glue... Yeah, i know.

Any help would be appreciated.