dude

The CHEAPEST battery I can get for my 96 Ford Probe is now $80. Most batteries in the store were the same price. Just a few years ago I think I paid $55-60 for the same thing. What happened?

I want to copy my CDs at a low rate for my mp3 player, and also at the highest rate in case I ever need to burn copies of my CDs. Is this possible to do on the same computer? I have a new computer with vista premium and I'm guessing WM10, or at least 9. Also, should I use WAV lossless or WMA lossless or does it matter? Please only answer if you know what you're talking about. Thanks

I just replaced my impeller on my cobra outdrive and hooked up the ears and the outdrive is squirting water out of the silver screw-cap-looking thing on the left side of the outdrive. Is this normal? What is that thing?

I ask this because I started doing car audio in 1996, and did it professionally for 6 or 7 years, and since I've gotten on this site all of a sudden there is all this "info" being floated around like not exceeding a speakers RMS power by 10%. That's bogus!

1. RMS ratings are averages over a period of time. Just because your amp is on, doesn't mean it's sending its RMS watts rating to your speakers. It depends entirely on the music/source material being played. Amps are rated (if I'm not mistaken) based on a sine wave being played, and this is nothing like music.

2. Manufacturer's speaker RMS ratings are safe ratings used among other things to prevent you from sending a bazillion watts to your small speakers.

Think what you want, but I've put WAY more "RMS watts" to my speakers and subs over the years and have never had any problems. RMS figures are just averages to be used as practical guidelines. If you still doubt, read up from guys like David Navone and RIchard Clark.

I have replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, and idle air pump. My mechanic ran a diagnostic and he said nothing was coming up that would cause it to die. He did mention a code involving the O2 sensor I think. It is hard to start after it dies. At first it would start right back up, now I have to gas it a lot and keep it reved up for 10 seconds or so before I can even try to get it in gear and rolling again. It shakes quite a bit while I am doing this - it runs very poorly. Sometimes it happens a block away from when I first start it; sometimes it runs for miles without a problem. It never dies on the highway. I THINK IT ONLY SHUTS DOWN WHEN GOING SLOWLY OR COMING TO A STOP. It's the 5.0 with an automatic if that matters. Please help!