The Big Guy

I am swapping over from a blown 27 HP CV740s-0006 Kohler to a cheaper Briggs option. I am a DIY'er but I can't figure out whether the mounting bolt spacing will be the same for the Briggs as the Kohler was. I don't have room to drill more holes on my frame setup.

The Briggs and Stratton engines I am looking at are the 49T877-0004 27hp or the Vanguard 49R977-0004 G1 26hp.

I have also considered dropping to the Kohler 7000 series 26hp KT745-3023 if the mounting bolts would be ok there.

Trying to save money, the 740 replacement is nearly 1700 bucks, the other options are as low as 700 shipped.

As long as all of the mentioned engines hold the same mount pattern as the old kohler CV740 It will greatly help me in choosing the right option.

This is for a back-up mower, I don't require it more than a handful of times a year.

Thanks!

I'm wanting to upgrade my entry level Pioneer setup, the SX-316, which comes stock with single 2 way drivers in all of the surrounds and center channel, which are all 8 ohms. I managed to pick up a better Onkyo center channel dual driver that should improve things for now, but many newer speakers average 6 ohms at the same wattage rating, 100-125 watts.

The only specs I can find on this 5 year old out of the box receiver and speaker setup is the 8 ohm requirement. Would I be doing any harm to replace say the sub-woofer with an upgraded 6 ohm similar wattage sub-woofer? I know I could just buy a powered sub to avoid this altogether, but I might get improved sound with a passive model since my driver is about 6" and there are newer 8" ported versions on the market.

Thanks.

Thinking about running a pair of 6.5" flush mounted speakers in a living room to get my 5.1 surround system back. Due to the overall layout of the room it would be impossible to run wires under anything and the only alternative is a mount that mounts to the ceiling and aim's a speaker one direction or another which to me looks out of place as well.

A friend of mine uses flush mounts for rear and front surrounds with good success, and I thought I would go that route.

My only question is what to do to prep the speaker's compartment. Obviously I need to cut a hole, and clear out some space for the magnet and crossover that is self contained on most higher quality speakers, but wouldn't the above insulation and dust seep into the driver over time and cause problems?

I've also seen some speakers that have their own little magnet shroud built in, but these are low quality and I won't be choosing them.

I've thought about just putting in some type of foam or filtering to keep dust and air out of the driver, or perhaps forming the hole and spraying the insulate with some sort of quick drying contact cement or adhesive to create somewhat of an airtight hard area for the speaker to rest, which could aid in acoustics as well.

Anyone done this and have some suggestions?

Thanks!

I've been out of the photoshop game for some time now, and notice they offer many options. I remember the software costing upwards of 600 bucks for a full license, now it appears they have some options cheaper, like Lightroom or essentials.

Could someone shed some light on which program most people use to edit and create forum signatures, and other digital media manipulation?

The things I liked most about the original photoshop years ago was the ability to trace cut images and cut them to place in other files, which is essential in signature creation. I also liked it's ability to edit noise and clean images. Looks like Lightroom does that, but does it offer the cut option, which I need?

Thinking about just buying a license so it's mine and not doing their membership option.

Any list of maybe the hierarchy of their editing software would be awesome, thanks.

TBG

So could someone explain to me why some car amps increase power when wired down to 1 ohm and others seem to loose power? An example of this is the Alpine MRX-M240 I have been eyeballing for my 2 10" Alpine type R setup. My plan was to obtain an amp that would allow me to send these 2 subs at least 80% of their RMS raiting which is roughly 800 watts each, 1600 total.

I'm not new to car stereo but I've run single speaker setups for so long I've lost some of the details that go along with twin speaker setups.

The amp in question here claims to push 2400 watts x 1 at 2 ohms, so 1200 RMS per sub when wired together, but only 1000 watts at 1 ohm, which makes no sense to me.

I always thought the purpose of less resistance was for increased power flow, thus causing the amp to perform at it's most powerful.

I was running 1 type R 10 on a PPI 1300S amp, which gives the single sub about 800 watts, plenty to enjoy this sub, but when i wired it down to 1 ohm and connected the 2nd 10, I could barely hear it. My wiring was correct down to 1 ohm, which leads me to believe that this amp also looses power at 1 ohm, or it's not going down to 1 ohm like it should be.

Any clarity on this would be great. Thanks!