nukecat25

Someone gave me a Delta 10" bandsaw and it didn't work. Upon disassembly and inspection it seems the motor is to blame. A search online has revealed that the 1/2HP-1PH-BS1D motor that is original equipment is obsolete. Are there other motors that would work; are compatible? If there are compatible motors is there a website or reference that would provide those?

I have an old home with lathe and plaster probably done in the 40's. could that have asbestos?

I know the basic steps as a first timer. But in my Backwoodsman magazine the article say you just let it dry, flesh it, clean it, then apply neatsfoot oil and work to softness. Most online articles use alum before the oiling process. Is just neatsfoot oil adequate or is an agent like alum or Krowtann needed prior to oiling?

My cynical mind wonders how the CIA looks at this situation in Iran. They certainly have tried to capitalize in the past with the contra coup of the Shah in the 70's. This is just Tom Clancy **** I'm pulling out of my *** but I wonder if they thought about having a untraceable undercover agent assassinate Mousavi to galvanize the cause of the protestors? I know some folks will say "the US doesn't assasinate people" but if the prize is juicy enough they will do anything.

Perhaps I'm making mountains out of molehills but it seems to me that the situation with the North Korean vessell with possible weapons materials and the U.S. vowing to uphold U.N. procedure is a pretty big deal. Kim Jong Il has stated that if any U.S. forces board or give any North Korean vessells any flak than it would be considered an act of war. Meanwhile, the Iranian Election protests have been covered almost to exhaustion, yet they continue to cover it incessantly. The North Korean situation has almost been a back page issue, almost no mention. What is your opinion on why this is so. I do acknowledge that the Iranian situation is important, but the North Korean situation could in theory develop into a major conflict in which the U.S. is directly involved in.

It's common knowledge that NASA monitors weather very closely and any inclement weather grounds a launch. What would happen if they launched through a little rain; do they consume more fuel with higher humidty thus more resistance? Would lighting strikes explode the highly volatile fuel?

Deer hunting in north cental Kansas for about five years now I have ceratinly gotten the bug. But since beginning I've become more and more elaborate in my methods over the years. I am a camflauge loving freak, if for nothing else I've had some amazing experiences while out in the field with close encounters with other animals. But I know it is common mantra that deer are color blind therefore camoflauge is not absolutely necessary. They apparently see in black and white, but what about silhouette breakup? While they can tell what color you're wearing, a camoflauge with some breakup pattern would deter detection wouldn't it? I'd hunt with a ghillie suit if my family didn't laugh me off their land!

I only own a 12 Ga. and a 30-30, I'd like to own more but don't have the money. I have a two year old daughter that is very curious so I can't just keep my guns anywhere. I was wondering if there is any reliable/safe way to store these but have quick access in the case of home invasion? Don't give me too much grief on not owning a pistol, someday I'd like to own a good old fashioned 1911 when finances allow!

I have an Israeli Mauser k98k 7.62mm/.308 caliber. From the research I've done, a .308 is a decent caliber rifle to start out on sharpshooting. I like that the .308 is a fairly cheap ammunition and the barrels last a little longer than magnum round guns. The next question is where is a good website or specific gear one could recommend to convert this basic infantry rifle into a sharpshooting gun? I know the Germans used these in WW2 for sniper rifles, so I know it's been done. What do I do to attach a scope and raise it high enough that the rear safety on the bolt doesn't obstruct the view?

My brother in law purchased an old rifle at a garage sale for $100 and the seller couldn't tell him anything about it. He is now off to Marine boot camp and lent me the gun to use for deer hunting and getting the story on it as well. The gun is a Fabrique Nationale D'Armes de Guerre Herstal-Belgique (or FN). On the top of the breech is stamped a large "7.62" obviously for the calibre. Below that is stamped a crest with a six pointed star with rounded points (not quite a Star of David) within the crest is shown a armored hand holding a sword with ivy around it. On the bottom part of the crest are words in an very unfamiliar language, different characters completely. On the left side of the breech is the serial number and below that in tiny letters is stamped "Jud. Ent. Farm Ct.". Other distinguishing features include full wooden cover of the barrel, a clip site for bayonet (which obviously had been used, has a lot of wear) and pop-up rear site. I know it is a Mauser, but I'd love to know the story of what country it was made for? I found a online gun store sight selling a Venezuelan contract Mauser, but in the picture the crest wasn't the same one; so it isn't Venezuelan. Let me know!

I'm not a NASCAR fan, but I grew up with a father that is. Sometime in the early nineties I brought my recently finished NASCAR model (blank white) to Heartland Park in Topeka, KS. I got it autographed by Rick Hendrick and Ricky Rudd, and a third driver which I cannot recall. To boot, the model car has Rick Hendrick Motorsports on the valve cover, as it was originally a Darrell Waltrip model kit, I just didn't paint the body.

So what would something like this be worth, or where do I go to find information like that. Also, where could I research to figure out that third autograph, as I'm pretty sure it was a notable driver. Any suggestions are welcome!!

With all the talk of the a depression worse than the 1929 one, I was wondering what kind of rifle would be best to have for versatility and availability of ammunition for the worst case scenario? Given I live in western KS, something that could stop the average deer down to varmits, as well as defend my property. I own a 12 Ga. shotgun with interchangable chokes (only really use the imp. cyl. and a 30-30 lever action brush rifle. I'm pretty sure the 30-30 would fulfil this duty, but if there's any suggestions I'm interested. No, I'm not a wack-job conspiracy theorist, just someone who likes to be prepared for what the world hands him. Not necessarily a right-wing nut either, in fact far from it LOL!!

My route I do my workout ride on almost invariably is always against the wind. Is there anything I can do to block out the wind in my ears (besides earplugs) so that I can hear vehicles coming from behind? Any veteran cyclist tip/tricks are welcome. I'm not crazy about wearing a mirror on my helmet either.

I've been riding for at least an hour three times a week and commuting to work twice a day. I'm obviously as acclamated to this saddle as I'm going to get, but no matter, after 40 minutes or so, I have to stop and let the blood flow back to my nether-regions. This saddle is a little bigger than a sport type application, but not near as large as the saddle that came with the bike. It has the hole in the front portion of the saddle (for the boys), and I believe it is a Giant brand saddle. Would switching to a thin sport seat get rid of this issue? This pain/numbness is in my groin, my rami or butt-bones don't hurt at all, as I have put the time in the saddle to get over that.

I've narrowed down my search on $800-1000 touring bikes to two. I am looking at the Fuji Touring and the Long Haul Trucker by Surly. Anybody out there with some saddle time in either of these would be greatly appreciated. Considering that no bike shops within a four hour drive of my location keep touring bikes in stock to test ride!

I just had to buy a new rear wheel for my bike and the new rim is short, flat and fat, as opposed to the original "Deep V" style rim that was on there. What is the trick on brakes to getting them to widen and still work? I have widened the space for the shoes, but now when I apply the brakes the "recoil" as I call it, isn't there, they want to just stay in contact with the rim. Are there any websites to illustrate how to remedy this? If so please share!! Thanks!

As of this spring/summer I have fallen in love with everything bike. I commute and ride for fitness when I can, with hopes of working up to touring shape. Is there a season that typically is better to find a good deal on a bike, like the end of the summer or the middle of the winter. I'm trying to run the wheels off my B.S.O. (Schwinn) so I can tell my wife it's time to upgrade LOL.

I am ultimately looking to have a bike that is good for both everday commuting and touring with panniers/racks long distance with camping. From what I've read on the internet steel frames are more forgiving and ride smoother. The guy at my local bike shop tells me aluminum frames have more flex and ride better. I don't know if he's just trying to make a sale (Giant dealer) or to trust him, unfortunately the staff there are all just racers not tourers. If you can recommend any brands/models to check out that'd be good. From my research thus far I am in love with Co Motion bikes, just not the price! I'm looking at $1000 max for a good touring bike. Thanks!

I've been biking ten miles a day pulling my 35-40 lb. daughter in a cart behind. I can't really go any further since I have my daughter with me. I just pace a little harder each and every time, and my route has a fair amount of steep hills. I average around 13-14 mph. Would you say continuing this regimen would be sufficient for eventually doing some touring for around 100 miles?

Dumb question here, but are there any pointers out there for/by cyclists on chain gear lubrication. Back in the day we just used WD-40 but are there some back alley secrets or specialized products for chain gears?