TheBonecrusher89

I have a htpc system, and the motherboard and processor are very nice (ASUS, and Phenom X4) but I've decided to build an ATX computer instead due to heat problems. I'd rather save some money by reusing the board and cpu if I can. So, will my mini-itx board match up to the mounts on an ATX case?

I went to my recruiter, did all of the medical prescreening, and today, took the 3 hour ASVAB test at MEPS.

However, I noticed that other people were getting on a shuttle to go to a hotel for the night, to come back tomorrow for a physical, but my recuiter never mentioned anything like that to me. He just told me to go there and take the test.

However, I do have to get a diploma from my school since I lost mine, which he told me to get and give to him after I've taken the test. If I end up missing the physical tomorrow, and it turns out I was supposed to be there but wasn't, will I have to take the ASVAB test again?

Thank you!

I have a sony ericsson 580i and AT&T. The map on AT&T's website shows where I live has excellent coverage, and my phone always shows 5 full bars. However, during the past month, every time I make or receive a call, it's dropped in no more than 10 seconds, every time, no exceptions. I've switched phones, turned them off and on, the whole bit. I've also found out that my friends with AT&T also are having this problem. Time to switch to a new network, or is there a solution?

I have an eBay account, but it's from yesterday, and I don't even remember logging in to my computer then. Is this something I should be concerned about?

I was given an old Kenwood home theater system which I've decided to use in the garage while I life weights, however, I can't figure out how to get the thing to work right.

The back of the subwoofer has both inputs and outputs, like so: http://www.parts-express.com/images/item_standard/...

I hooked up the left and right channels from the receiver to the inputs on the subwoofer, and then the satellites to the outputs.

It works, but whenever a low bass sound (drum kick, etc..) happens, the satellites' volume goes way down, and then loud again when it stops. It basically sounds like crap, and I'd bet money I have it set up wrong. Help?

I ordered a decal kit for my ATV off ebay (seller has impeccable rating) and the sale included priority shipping (2-3 days). I received the tracking info on 5/31, and it is now 6/13 and the info still says "Electronic Shipping Info Received." I asked the seller and he says it's normal, but I've never had them take this long. He's in New Jersey, I'm in Oregon. Any ideas on what to do?

I'm looking at a used 85' FL350 I found at a clients house. I've looked at it, it runs and drives, (says he had the piston replaced before he parked it..) but it needs both brake cylinders rebuilt and a new battery, and possibly the carb needs to be gone through since it's been sitting for about 2 years. The paint and whatnot are kinda sun bleached, while the wheels look like they could use a sandblast and repaint.

Is $1500 a reasonable price for it? I know motorcycles and quads well, but I've never seen one of these for sale.

After replacing a Subaru Robin engine on a piece of equipment, I noticed that both Honda and Kawasaki make industrial engines, but not Yamaha, though they do have generators with v-twins. Why not sell those engines? Just a curiosity since I'm a fan of Yamaha.

I have a 93 Ranger 2.3 that I'd like to rebuild, top and bottom. I've done a few engine swaps (best one being a 4BT into a Chevy) but I've never rebuilt one, so I'd like to give it a shot.

Can someone give me a list of what I'd need a shop to do to the engine for me?

They're going on a Ranger with a 4-cylinder economy differential, so I don't want bigger tires. (Les Schwab tried to convince me that 235-70R15's are basically the same...sheesh.) From what I figure, the originals were about 24.7in tall.

I think a 195-65R15 will work, but they're going on different wheels that are 8in wide at the lip, and I don't enjoy the "stretched tire" look/performance of a skinny tire over a wide wheel. Does the tire size include the wheel width in there somehow?

I did all the stuff on the Army's GoArmy website to apply online and see matched up jobs. I selected both active and reserve careers, and the only job apparently for me is Radio Operator Maintainer 25C. (There's almost nothing I'd rather not do.) There aren't any openings even for infantry? Armor?

I feel ashamed for asking a question like this given an above average technical knowledge, however wireless networking appears to utterly defeat my intellectual abilities.

The router is a Linksys WRT110, configured with a password. We have two desktops and a laptop running Win7 64, and an xbox. If only one of them is powered on, whatever is connected works great; full connection, very quick downloads, etc. But if something else is turned on and attempts to connect, NOTHING will be able to connect, EXCEPT once in a while the xbox can be online with a PC, but NEVER two PCs at the same time, or nothing at all will work. Whenever Windows 7 "diagnoses" the problem, it's ALWAYS "Investigate router access point issues," and says to reset it, which never works, and merely says it's the problem again, and again, and again. When a PC tries to connect with something else on, the connection attempt immediately fails within about half a second.

Can someone please tell me why this is happening? It's maddeningly frustrating and I'm going to take the router to the chopping block if I can't get this simple wireless network going soon. Is the router only capable of supporting one wireless device at a time? I can have wired connections and one wireless connection fine, but I can't run cords throughout a big house.

It's an oem that came with a computer I bought and sold long ago. It's been sitting for years, and when I needed some extra money lately, I found it along with other things to sell. When I posted the ad, two different people freaked out on me for "comitting a crime," "violation of eula" etc., etc.. One of them even said I'd have to build an entire computer system to go with it, just so I can sell it, which is insane if that's true.

I paid for it and I can't sell it? Sounds very sketchy to me. It has the "genuine code" and everything so I don't see the problem.

I have a 93 Ford Ranger 4-cylinder 5-speed manual with almost 200k miles.

The problem: When cruising on the highway and I shift into neutral, the truck will start shaking, as if I was driving on the rumble strip on some freeways. It will keep doing it until I engage a gear, and it will shake down until about 40mph, then it becomes unnoticable.

Underneath the truck, if I put the tranny in first, I can't twist the driveshaft, but if it's in neutral I can twist it about an inch and a half and hear a clunk from the diff everytime it stops. There is no play in the u-joints that I can see.

What's broken/worn? Something I can replace or easier to try to find a new diff from a wrecking yard? Thank you for the help!

It is a 1994 GMC 3500 pickup w/454, 5-speed. When accelerating, all the gauges drop and the charge plummets, but if using compression to slow the truck down on a hill at the same rpm, nothing happens. It has a new alternator because this was happening before, but now it started doing it again a week later. Is it just a defective alternator? Is there an external voltage regulator? Thank you

We have a 1994 GMC 3500 w/ 454. We've taken the only two threaded bolts that hold the pump in the reservoir but the pump won't budge. What's holding it in/how do we get it out? We bought a power steering pump without the reservoir because it's all napa had.

We have a 93 GMC 3500 pickup with a 5-speed manual. It has a new master and slave cylinder, new line and a new clutch with about 4000 miles on it.

Just tonight it started giving out with no reason why. The pedal has pressure but won't disengage the clutch anymore, progressivly getting worse until now, it's useless.

Any ideas as to what it may be?

I'm currently working security while I train as a reserve police officer in Oregon.

Recently at an unarmed site, I confronted some thieves, who in the end ran, but in their haste dropped two folding knives, opened.

Now, my boss says they can only change an unarmed site to armed if the client requests it, otherwise, we aren't allowed to carry anything at all, not even pepper spray. I have my DPSST armed license and a concealed carry permit, but I'm still not allowed to carry anything, not even after an incident like the one I mentioned earlier.

Something about it seems illegal. For example, if I did get attacked at an unarmed site? What would my options be after that? Anything preventative I could do or say?

I'm consdering conceal carrying my 40s&w regardless, just because I'd rather lose my job than get knifed by some thief..

I've been riding dirtbikes/supermoto for the last 12 years of my life. When I went to take the skills test today here in Oregon, I failed the cone weave thing, along with every guy on a supersport bike.

I told my buddy about it when I got home and he told me to take the Team Oregon riding course because it's "way, way easier."

And $250.

Sounds like a scheme to get money to me. If they actually cared about our safety it would be free. I already pay taxes and a buttload of fees at the DMV.

My 1993 Ranger goes through a quart of oil every 300 miles, but it doesn't leak a drop or produce any smoke, either at startup (valve stem seals) or if I floor it when I'm driving. (piston rings) if my catalytic converter is working, and my truck is burning oil, would the catalytic converter prevent the appearance of oil smoke?