Stumped

Just did a major tune up. New head gasket, timing belt, water pump, T-stat, new plugs, wires, coil, distributor, distributor cap and rotor and all new hoses. Flushed radiator and heater core. Engine took in about 2.5 gallons of new antifreeze.

Now the temp gauge pegs to hot with engine off and key on. Does it also with temp sender unplugged. Engine running, unplug temp sender and fan comes on. The fan in this thing has never came on since I bought the car in '07. It comes on with OBD1 plug in in diagnostics-light blips.

All hoses are at the same temp when engine is running.

I have a 1989 Pontiac Lemans 1.6L. This is an interference engine. The timing belt does not have an idler pulley. The tension needs to set per specs. I found that the tension is set between the water pump and cam pulley.

What I am trying to find is a tech whom has used the Kent-Moore made by Broughton model J-26486-B tension gauge. I have no idea as to how to properly use this thing.

So if anyone knows and has used one of these please let me know. I have sent contact to Broughton, Bosch (they sell Kent-Moore tools), and tried to locate Kent-Moore to no avail. Bosch replied they had sent a contact to the manufacturer trying to get the info as of yet, 2 weeks, still have not heard back.

Thank you.

Started out failed fuel pump and snow balled from there. Engine is on a Craftsman 50 " garden tractor from 1996. Ordered new fuel pump, replaced all fuel lines. Had to order new carb because found problem with main metering rod. Engine still will not start on it s own. Prime it, sure it fires then dies. It is like the fuel system just runs dry. IF I take off the fuel line before filter it will flow held down. Take off on other side of filter, hold down gravity works. Other side of fuel pump crank engine at first good shot then it flows as engine cranks. Dis connect solenoid at bottom of bowl, un plug spark plugs, take off solenoid and check bowl, little fuel in it. Put bowl back on, crank engine, then hook spark plugs back on, air filter and front off carb plate back on, carb tightened back down, choke, choke, full throttle, crank, starts. Have to go 1/2 choke and throttle will idle down and runs. Let warm up, full throttle, dies, no start and like fuel system is dry again. Out of irritation I checked the governor. Adjusted it and man it ran, way to fast, shut down. Re adjusted, got it running and it was like steady, then surge, steady, then surge. Would start to die, pull choke a tad it would go back to idle then dies. Carb was bench set at 1-1/2 turns, got it running before it died, bringing the idle to it s set screw and just off it died. The governor adjustment was after trying to get new carb adjusted.

If anyone has any idea I would appreciate it.

Had code 13 and 42 set. Cleaned IAC, pressure regulator and injector. Code 42 went through diagnostics in FSM and came to failed ECM. Changed ECM using mem-cal from ECM being removed. Car has been running fine for the past week except yesterday it died again.

Towed it home and let it sit over night. It would have started back up this morning but I went through FSM diagnostics again. Had no stored codes. Check for opens at ALDL to ECM connections all good. When starting engine back up in diagnostics the SES light flashed only 1 time per second.

Any ideas as to what to check would be appreciated. I am at a loss. It is running fine but I know it will shut again.

I have a 1989 Pontiac Lemans 16.L 4spd, no a/c, no p/s. It is pictured on page 6A1B-4 of the factory service manual. It attaches on the head to the back side, a couple inches back from the distributor, makes a right angle down turn and attaches to a fitting going into the engine block. It has ruptured and I need to replace but no idea what it is called.

I have tube I need to replace and need help to find out the name of it. So here goes:

1989 Pontiac Lemans 1.6L 4spd, no a/c, no p/s. Factory service manual page 6A1B-4. It is the tube that attaches at the back side of the head, makes a right angle turn down and attaches to another fitting going into the crank case.

Car dies without warning. Have changed the TPS, 02 and temp senor, new coil and wires, new fuel relay and fuel pump. SES will not come on sitting idling, yet after 15 minutes of driving it comes on. Checked codes, 13 and 22 stored. Now 13 still stores cause of sensing overly rich condition. Light will go off then come back on. Light will flash rapidly when it dies, then normal flash- flash flash and vroom.

Any one got any idea?

Ok I have a 1978 Suzuki gs750e motorcycle. I took my tank off to clean and paint it. When I took the pet cock off the fiter was rattling around in the tank.

I have the filter and pet cock and the filter slips into the pet cock but turn it up side down and it falls out. What on earth holds this thing in or am I nuts thinking something should? What I am worried about is the sloshing around of the gas while riding it may be possible for the filter to come back out.

So if someone knows what sticks this thing in the pet cock inside the gas tank I would appreciate the help.

Ok I'll explain it a little better. This things starts and runs just fine. However it sort of acts like a carburetor running out gas or being sucked sucked dry. This will happen when driving and holding the speed limit then intermintely if will shudder and the idle will fall off if I back off the pedal it stumbles.

As long as I continue to apply the gas pedal it runs fine. Now it does not do this every day either. When I back off the throttle aproaching a stop light or sign it may fall off. When I pull it out of gear the idle will drop from about 1,000 rpms to about 200, shudder then back up again. However is has died twice doing this, but starts back up.

A few ago the Ignition module went south so I installed a new one, Blue Streak brand. Since it is a 1989 model year I also went ahead and put in a new fuel pump. This thing is fuel injected, throttel body, but the fuel pressure in the factory service manual states the pressure should be between 7-9 psi. It idles holding 9.2 psi.

It acts like the throttle position sensor is failing, or not getting a signal. When it acts like it is loosing power if I step a tad on the gas pedal it comes alive just fine. So with all that if anyone has a good idea of where to look I would appreciate it.

This is a 1989 Pontiac Lemans, 1.6L, 4spd, no air.

Ok here is the details. I have painted the tank, gas cap cover and side covers and the tail section trunk on my motorcycle. I used urethane, filler and self etching coats of primers at least 2 coats each. I sprayed the parts with acrylic lacquer paint using the slow activator and medium reducer, those might be backwards. Anyway this is a metallic mix in as well.

I have sprayed a total of 6 coats sanding down and cleaning between each. I allowed a week between coats and it has been hot here that is whey I went with the slow solvent. In my garage if it is 90 degrees outside it is about 100 degrees or more inside it.

I started doing this back in April. So my how long additionally should I wait before putting on pin stripe decals and clear coating. I have heard anywhere from a month to 3 months to allow complete curing otherwise if sealed the gasses in the solvent would cause bubbles. It has been about 2 1/2 weeks since I sprayed the final coat.

Any firm answer would be appreciated.

Ok I know I could have the seat re-covered. But I found a seat for my motorcycle at junk yard that was in perfect condition and 1/2 the price of re-covering the thing. However to that, they used their paint marker to mark the seat. I would not worry about it if it was on the bottom side of the seat pan. They marked it right on the back of the cover towards to tail light on the seat cover itself.

Now I have no idea how long this stuff has had to dry on the cover as I am sure it sat for more than a few years like that. So In know something like lacquer thinner would clean it off while trashing the cover at the same time. So does anyone have, preferably know, a way to clean that paint off without ruining the cover? It is not leather, more a vinyl naugahyde I suppose. It is a 1978 Suzuki GS750-E.

Hi there I have a Hobart Commercial 2 door under counter freeze with dimension's of 32 inches Deep, 34 inches high, 74 inches wide. If has 2 doors and the compressor is on the left with the vent door in front.

The serial number is 32-506-974 CF

The DATA plate for the model # is slightly buggered so I can not tell what the first digit is.

I have been searching the net and so help I can not find this thing anywhere.

Ok I have a Campbell Hausfield WF200 Mig welder. This is a flux core wire feed and no gas.

I realize a gas mig welder is the best, but I simply do not have one.

The settings are pretty basic. It has a High/Low wire feed rate and the heat range settings.

I have rust on a 1980 Ramcharger and I got the replacement panels from a company called Ray Buck. These are for rear end, wheel wells, rear corners etc.

I have big problem with burning through metal and I know the heat is too high. Then I have a problem with the welds not being that great. I know I need to practice with this thing more.

This is not thick metal at all. Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you.

Ok here is the short side of it. I needed a refill for my Warfarin. My doctors office told me it's been awhile so I need to come in for a "meds check". Well I admit it had been awhile since I last went to my doctor, I do not run in every time I sneeze and they know it. So I take Warfarin in the amounts of 8 mgs for 5 days and 7 mgs the other 2. I have had blood clots in both legs and had an embolisim to my right lung. I am active and work full time on my feet.

So my regular doctor had moved on and here was a temporay fill in. He was a nice guy alright. Anyway sitting there reading my charts history he came across I had had a cholesterol test done 2 years ago and my numbers were border line high. Ok so he ordered up a CBC with a fasting lipids test to be done.

So the results. He informed me about the cholesterol first and it was again border line on the bad part, 1 point over to be exact. When I asked about the results of the CBC he stood up right and told me "I can refer you to a specialist", I asked why and again the same response. Now I realize this may have been reasonable that the doctor would never see me agian, but why would a doctor drop a bomb shell like that and not state the reason?

I had my first blood clot when I was much younger, around 23 or so, my next hit about 6 years later.

Anyway I was and still very active. One specialist, when I was in a hospital, asked me if I ever went parachuting and my chute did not open.

So now I deal with the valving in my legs being shot and have venal stasis ulcers, which I have had the same ones for well over 22 years. So much for taking several weeks to heal. I am now trying some expensive stuff rather than the usuall UNA boots, $107.00 for 3- 44 gram jars, buy 2, get 1 for free.

So if anyone, preferrably a physician?, can tell me what would be in a CBC test result about having to take Warfarin that a doctor would not disclose. I mean my internals are working properly and I have been told my heart is better than good. Since my embolisom there is what looks like a tiny bit of scar tissue on the bottom of my right lung. They said it was a massive one and I am lucky to be alive. You should have seen the blood gushing out when I coughed it all up, what a mess.

Ok this thing has the 1.6L engine and a 4spd trans. The FSM says to measure the distance between the clutch pedal depressed and raised at the steering wheel and firewall to a difference of 4/5.

I put in a new Luk clutch set and a new clutch cable about 3 months or so ago. I can not the measurement to what it is supposed to be. So I adjusted the cable so the throwout bearing is just about to hit the pressure plate fingers. With that the FSM says if the pedal is depressed 9 seconds or so to let the shifter engage a gear it is ok.

Well I can catch the forward gears no problem, it is trying to catch reverse that is the issue. It grinds. So I am now at the point that I have to turn the engine off and put it in reverse to go into reverse.

Does anyone have any idea how to adjust this stupid thing without trying to do the measurement adjustment?

Thank you

Hi there I need a lil advice from someone who is more of gear head than me. I am not building this thing to race it, but I want some get up boogie if I am so inclined.

I have a '79 Dodge Lil Red Express. I am rebuilding the thing. I had a set of J heads with the 1.80 intake valves, got stolen. So unless I can find another set I have a set of heads off a '75 360, # 3769974.

Anyway the cam is a Mopar Performance In 262, Ex 268 with recommended and needed springs.

Automatic hydraulic lifters

Intake Wieand Stealth single plane, non-egr

Block bored .030.

Pistons: Fel Pro Sealed Power Speed Pro flat tops with twin valve reliefs.

Hastings Tru-Roller chain and gears, with degree ability or I will use off set cam key.

Molly Rings

Grooved rod and main bearings, stock size.

Trans is a Load-flight 727. It will get a 5 disk forward clutch and a valve body kit.

Can anyone give me an idea of good CFM I will need? I am not sure if I should be looking at around 650 or up to 800 CFM. I want to be able to drive this thing without towing a fuel tanker.

Ok here we go. I just bought a new Sanyo DP42841 HDTV. We have cable and the box has the HDMI output connection and it works fine. I have it hooked via HDMI to the TV and using RCA plugs sound goes to receiver if wanted and it works fine.

I am trying to finish hooking everything up and ran into a problem. First here are the main components I am using:

Sanyo DP42841 HDTV

JVC RX6000V receiver- no HDMI ports optical and digital ins and outs, S-video and RCA ports

Pioneer DV-260 DVD player- optical and digital outputs

So this is a component set-up. LP, tape, VHS, TV/DBS, CD player.

Audio from receiver works fine.

How can get a picture from my receiver to the TV? I tried running a yellow RCA cord from my receiver's output to the Video in put in the TV, no picture. I connect my WII and use the Video 1 input and it works fine.

Last night I tried putting in a DVD in the Pioneer and got audio, no brain-er but no picture.

With our old TV I used the S-Video ports from the receiver to the TV and it worked fine.

Now I get audio and picture from our cable provider VIA HDMI and when wanted via receiver from that source.

How can I connect my receiver to this TV?

Ok. First it is an old Enfield .30-06 military rifle, slightly modified for a scope. I ran some re-loads through it and the shoulder, around the primer rim, bulged.

I used a go-no go gauge and the bolt closes. I was told to find a field gauge to check the head space. From what I have found is the go / no go gauge's are used by the manufacturers simply stated and the field gauge is exactly that, out in the real world.

The gun shoots great, but I am worried about the safety issues kind of. I know the bolt isn't going to blow back into my face.

Any ideas would be appreciate.

I am getting ready to restore my 1979 Dodge Lil Red Express truck. It has never had the front fender emblems since I have owned it, since 1986 that is. Anyway can anyone tell what the correct front fender emblems are, or tell me a site where I can see good up close and clear pictures of one? Also if anyone has both fender emblems for sale I might be interested in them. I also need both good and still shiny window channel bars that go between the door window and the wind wings. They were chromed I believe but fade as time goes by.

Thank you

Thank you

First off this thing is not stolen. My parents bought it from their former neighbor and yes they have the proper paper work for it.

Here is the deal. I checked continuity at the wires as the book describes to check the ignition switch. In the off position it is ok, in the on position no dice. So my folks want me to hot wire it to see if the thing even runs.

The wires are as follows: Black and red key off continuity. Yellow w/ red stripe and green key on, nothing. The key turns on the electrical circuits. I think one wire becomes hot to the lights and the other goes to the coil. According to test, it failed replace it.

This thing has a starter as well as a pull rope. I also need to wire in a starter button. It has a neutral safety switch and I have no idea where that thing is. I know one wire from the button goes to the CDI and the other is supposed to go to the Neutral safety switch.

So with all that can anyone help to try to get this thing started?

Again it is not a stolen bike. It's just that we have already invested money into it without it running yet to include a new gas tank, a new wheel and tires. My folks bought it without me taking a look at it first. And yes I have a new starter button that needs installed.

So can anyone please help me? If I get it running then it will get the needed switch.