Marcus O

I just recently bought a USB IV Drip light on amazon (it's pretty cool if you ask me). You can see it here: http://www.amazon.com/USB-LED-Drip-Night-Light/dp/... but the problem I am having is that the light doesn't spread quite enough and the separate LEDs are very noticeable and the light is not quite a glow like it is in the picture. Is there a way to spread the light more, maybe with a different liquid? Corn syrup perhaps? I don't know much about this kind of stuff and I don't want to just stab in the dark with different ideas if I don't have to. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

I have a 1988 Toyota Supra (Turbo, Manual), and my car idles at 3000 rpm in neutral. This problem comes and goes and seems to be a problem for about a minute and a half after I press the accelerator. It then goes back to normal until I hit the gas again. I tried to listen for a hissing sound, but it's hard to hear over the engine. Thought I might have heard something, but it's hard to tell. The reason why I ask is because most vacuum leaks I've seen make it idle low, not high. Any ideas? Could it be something else? Thanks in advance!

I have a 1988 Toyota Supra (turbo) and the gear inside the transmission that turns the cable for the speedometer is worn out, so the speedometer is stuck at zero. I haven't had time to fix this, and I need to get a smog check. Will this cause me to fail the test for any reason? Because my car is old, this isn't changing any sensors or the behavior of the engine. The only differences this makes to the car is the cruise control doesn't work and it doesn't record any mileage. Just want to know if I need this fixed before I get the smog done or if I can wait for a bit till I have more time to get it done. Thanks.

I have a kenwood kac-829 amplifier I'm thinking about pairing with a set of infinity kappa 693.9i's. Is that a bad match? The amp is rated at 150w rms per channel at 2-ohms, which these speakers are, and the speakers are 110w rms, 300w peak. Is this too much for the speakers?

I have a pair of infinity kappa 693.9i speakers that have been really good to me so far, but one suddenly had the low end sounds cut out. I took the speaker out and found that the woofer is frozen. Like the cone won't move when I push on it. Seems the voice coils are fine, but the cone itself is somehow stuck and won't budge. Any ideas on how this happened and how to fix it? Thanks.

I'm looking for a clean amp to power my 6x9s and I'm not sure what is best. I'm looking at the KAC-1502S and the KAC-5204. Both cost about the same and seem about the same. I have a friend who uses the 5204 and it works well, but she uses it for subs, so I don't know the quality for 6x9s. The 1502 is newer and I can't find any reviews, but I'm not sure if it's worthwhile. Both have speaker-level inputs which I like and seem to have the same everything else the same. Any input would be appreciated.

On a side note, I'm also thinking of moving from a fuse to a circuit breaker like this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050DZLN8/ref=ox... . Is that a good idea? Anyone have experience with something like that?

I just had my amplifier die on my (it strangely turns on, but no sound comes out). Anyway, I'm looking for a new one and I've found that the KAC-7204 and KAC-7205 are both good, cost about the same, and have the same ratings. Anyone know what the difference is and which is better? Evidently the KAC-7205 has a higher fuse rating (2x30 as opposed to 1x40) and does not have a high-pass filter like the KAC-7204 does. This makes it seem like the 7204 is the way to go, but I see complaints about overheating there where the 7205 doesn't seem to have any. Anyone have any experience with these and any insight as to which is better?

I know this is a common question, but for some reason, I can't seem to find an answer that satisfies my question anywhere online. I have two 12" subs hooked up in my car to a very small amp (2x60w at 4-ohms). I wasn't looking to beat up the block, so I went with a cheap, small, reliable amp. Looking at the specs for my amp however, it turns out that it can run one sub bridged at 4-ohms at 200w. I figure that's almost double the power on less subs. I could even sell one sub and still end up with more power than I had before. Is this true or am I overlooking something where two subs somehow amplifies or something? Also, how would this affect sound quality? I like to listen to trance music, and I have heard that two subs is better for trance for some reason, although I never heard why. Any input? For reference, I have two 12" kicker comps at 4 ohms and one kenwood amp (kas-6202). Like I said, power isn't too much of an issue, but if one sub can do more than two, I figure I might as well pocket the extra money.

I'm a college student looking at investment options. I have a few grand in my savings account right now and it's growing at a decent speed now. I'm currently earning 0.01% interest in that savings account, and I'd like to change that plan somehow so I can't count the pennies I earn annually on one hand. I've been looking at the interest plus savings account from capital one since they seem to have decent interest rates and I already have a credit card through them. Anyone have any ideas on if this is a good idea? I'm looking for a secure place to store my money and I've done CDs in the past, but given my future in college, I'd like to keep all my money readily available, and investing in the stock market or bonds kinda scares me at this point in time. Any thoughts or experiences would be helpful. Thanks for your time.

My hard drive has some corrupted system files where windows explorer keeps resetting in a loop every time I try to boot windows. I thought maybe I could just fix the problem easily with a system restore, but that didn't fix the issue. I then tried using the windows system recovery (option when you boot hitting f8) and pulling up the command prompt and using "sfc /scannow", but it comes back saying the system is being restored and needs to be rebooted before it can run the diagnostic, but I can't let it restore since it never boots correctly. Any way to force it to run the sfc utility?

I just accidentally reformatted the wrong hard drive while trying to upgrade my computer and now I lost all my files for work. Is there any way to get them back at all or am I just completely out of luck (trying not to swear here). Please help if you can.

For the last few months, I have been feeling somewhat dazed and confused all day every day and I'm tired of it. I'm making sure I'm drinking enough water, getting enough sleep, and eating right. It feels kinda like I just smoked a hit or two of weed, but without the happiness or sleepiness or anything, just the loss of contact with reality and somewhat impared thought processes. Not bad enough to stop me in my daily activities either, but enough that thought comes slower and with much more effort than normal. Just looking for maybe a few ideas. I can normally catch these things myself, but with thought being harder, I feel like I'm missing something obvious that would make my brain harder to function. Any thoughts help. Thanks.

I am looking at two sticks. Here are the links:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N8...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N8...

Anyone have any ideas? Looking for maybe a mild overclock, but something that won't hold my processor back when I overclock that (Phenom II 955) and still provide stability. Anyone have any experience with either? Does it really even matter which one I get?

I am looking to build a new gaming system and just got a hold of 4 750gb seagate hard drives and I am comparing different RAID configurations. I first thought raid 10 (0+1) was the best (I am looking both for stability as well as performance), but looking at benchmarks, it looks like raid 10 is hardly faster than a single drive, and definitely slower than raid 0. My question is, would it be better to set up a raid 10 array, or simply make two raid 0 arrays, one as the master, and one as a byte for byte bootable backup that will update automatically once a week or so overnight to prevent errors and thus provide the backup if any failures were to occur?

I'm trying to connect my bluetooth mouse (Logitech M555B) to my computer (Dell Inspiron 1545 running windows 7 x64). Never had a problem with it in the past, but I just reformatted yesterday, so I have to reconnect everything. When I go to add a new device, it is able to find the mouse, but when I tell it to add it, it says "Connecting to device..." and then just stays like that for hours and never connects. I would understand if it couldn't find it or the driver was bad or something, but it says everything is fine, then just never connects. Any help?

I have a window that opens horizontally, so there is one static pane and one that moves left to right. To put a fan in there, I would have to put it in vertically so the fan would essentially be sideways. Does this work with normal window fans? Most of the ones I've seen are mounted in the lower part of a window that opens upward. Is this the only way?

I found a small 4 inch car speaker by a company called Global Sound International (GSI) with the label "Stereophile Series SF-4.1" and under that it says "60 Watts". It doesn't mention whither the wattage is peak or RMS and I can't find anything on the company for car audio, let alone speakers. Anyone know anything about these speakers? Are they worth using or should I just toss them? Tried them out and they sound alright, although I don't have the means to test them without disassembling the door in my car, inserting them, and trying them out. Figured I would ask to see if anyone else knows anything.

I have an ipod touch 3g and the battery is in horrible shape. It is unable to stay in standby mode for even a full 24 hours and I can only use it for a little over an hour at best on a full charge before the battery is completely dead. I am looking to replace the battery myself since I am poor and have a good amount of skill in these things. Also, the warranty is over, so I really can't get any help from apple at all. Anyway, I was looking around for replacement batteries for the ipod touch 3g and found absolutely, but I did find batteries for the 1g and 2g, and looking at the 2g battery, it looks extremely similar to the one in my ipod. Question is, will an ipod touch 2g battery work in my 3g, and if not, is there anywhere I can get a 3g battery or am I just out of luck and need to refurbish or get a new one? Thank you!

I have a subwoofer box I inherited from my cousin when he upgraded with some 12" kickers inside and I was looking and it seems like it needs to be set up as push-pull. It has essentially 3 chambers, two behind each of the two subs (one chamber each) which are ported, and one enclosed that has both subs facing inward toward each other. It would seem like they need to be wired with reverse polarity to one another to create a push-pull system, and when I do so, it gets louder than any other configuration. Here is picture I found online of a similar setup (although not at all my setup or brand), but is a good illustration of what I am talking about: http://www.autotoys.com/pics/thumbs/t_BNPS102.jpg. What I want to know is if this is isobaric. If so, it seems like it isn't conserving space like an isobaric system should and is really just making the system pointlessly weak. Any thoughts?

I get a free upgrade, and I get to pick from this list:

Sony Ericsson W518a ‐ Red

Nokia 6350 ‐ Graphite

Samsung a777 ‐ Blue

LG GU295

Nokia 2330 ‐ Grey

Pantech Breeze II (TM)

Nokia 2720

Motorola Backflip (TM) - Silver

I'm not looking for a multimedia phone (I already have an ipod touch for that), and I don't care about facebook and won't have a data plan anyway. I do text quite a bit, however, and I would like some clear voice and a good connection in most places. Any thoughts?