Sam Z

Last week I beat three of the seraphs in Borderlands 2 while on normal mode. Hyperion the invincible, Pete the invincible and Master Gee. I then switched to true vault hunter mode and went after them again. Unfortunately it gave me a message saying the seraph was locked, one or more players has already beaten the seraph that day.

So I've tried a couple different things to unlock them. Literally waited more than 24 hours in real time. Didn't unlock them, Then I played for more than 24 more hours in game time. Still hasn't unlocked any of them.

Is my game glitching? What else am I missing to unlock them again?

I have travel anxiety that makes it difficult for me to go anywhere long distance. I have found that listening to audio books on my Kindle helps me feel less anxious during those long drives.

However I have run into a problem of sorts. Audio books are really expensive.

As an Example I can purchase a brand new softcover Stephen King book for $10 - $12 at Walmart. However if I shop online for the same Stephen King books in the audio book format the same titles run $30 - $35.

I've downloaded a few free audio books but so far they aren't that great and the affordable books in the $5 - $15 range are generally no name titles nobody has heard of.

Why are audio books so much more expensive than regular books?

I would think they would be the same price or even cheaper since there isn't the cost to manufacture and print actual books.

My vehicle is a 1990 Cherokee Laredo with the 4.0 inline 6 cyl.

I just replaced the fuel injector O-rings. While attaching the fuel lines back to the fuel rail I managed to snap the cheapo looking plastic clip that holds the front fuel line in place.

I've been looking on the internet for a replacement clip or even a replacement line but I am finding nothing.

So this is a two part question.

Is the front line the return line?

Where do I get a replacement retaining clip or a new fuel line?

Sorry, had to repost this question since I only had the option to either delete it or add details, can't edit the original text of the question.

More than a month ago I sent my dad's rifle action and barrel to a former high school friend who is a new gunsmith in Kansas to get the rifle finished with Ceracoat at a discount price. He claimed he would get right on it and It was supposed to be done three weeks ago but I wasn't hearing a peep from the him nor getting responses to my phone calls or text messages.

Finally on the 14th he answered one of my texts saying he couldn't get to my dad's rifle for some time. which resulted in a big argument. Basically I was upset that he was not being upfront with me about time lines and a lack of communication and he was upset at me because I was pushing the issue and wanted the rifle back.

So argument aside he agreed to send the rifle back without the Ceracoat. So at this point I'm only out the $30 I paid to ship it to him.

Since then I have not heard a peep out of him and once again I am not getting responses to texts or phone calls and the rifle action has not showed up. After talking to a few people who know him better than I do I have learned he has a habit of ripping people off when he get in over his head financially. He borrows money and other items then skips town never repaying his debts or returning the items.

I am a little worried I will never hear from him again and that my dad's rifle will never be returned. At what point does this become theft and what can I do to possibly recover the item? We live in Oregon so we can't exactly drive to Wichita and recover it ourselves.

I just purchased a Pacific reloading press at a 2nd hand store, it came with 2 sets of reloading dies. The first one is a .300 Win mag 2 die set made by RCBS. The 2nd one is a 30/06 2 die set marked US Armory.

They are marked:

30/06 U.S. SEATER ARMORY H INC

30/06 U.S. SIZER ARMORY H INC

On both the H is inside of a circle.

I've never come across reloading dies with these markings. Are they something the US military used? Are they worth anything? Any idea what company made them?

I am currently loading some ammunition for my buddy's 22-250. His rifle is a Remington 700 manufactured in the 1970's Factory ammunition feeds with no problems, however the reloads made with a standard RCBS die set bind up as the bolt closes.

All of the brass is trimmed .040 under the maximum case length and I have tried various bullet seating depths. The case neck diameter is exactly the same diameter as the factory loads.

At this point I'm wondering if the rifle has an extra tight chamber. If so, will the RCBS small base sizing die correct this issue?

So someone posted a question dealing with religion and medicine in the hunting section of Yahoo Answers. I responded with "This question is in the wrong section, it needs to be in either the religious or medical section"

Within moment I received 3 hateful, threatening emails from the person who shall remain nameless, but most of us know who they are.

I already blocked them so they can't continue to harass me.

How do I report abuse of the YA policies in regards to their account?

I just got a 1990 Cherokee in a trade. It has the stock 4.0 engine and the 4 spd automatic transmission. The 4.0 engine is about to throw a rod through the block but everything else is in good working order.

I also have a Jeep 258 that came out of a 1981 CJ, was a good runner when it was pulled. I know that the 4.0 head will bolt onto the 258 and it can be converted to run with the 1990 fuel injection system. However will the 258 swap in easily? Will the bell housing have the correct pattern, will the flywheel off the 4.0 bolt onto the 258, will the distributors interchange? Basically are the engines similar enough to swap components off the 4.0 onto the 258 and bolt it in?

Over the years I have had several experiences with other avid gear heads. On the whole the guys who restore cars seem to be a lot more likely to point out every little mistake on an automobile with a bit of attitude thrown in while the guys who customize cars are more likely to look at the individuality of the cars and they don't have the attitude in their conversation.

Are the guys who restore cars doing it to satisfy a personality trait such as OCD that makes them demand perfection?

Over the last year I have done a lot of work with a single shot rifle that I chambered as a 7.62X25. I finally have it dialed in with 110gr Hornday V-max bullets setting on top of 14 grains H110 powder. I get 1/2 groups at 100 yards with a muzzle velocity of 1965 fps.

Has anyone else experimented with this round in a rifle meant for short to medium range hunting of small game? If so, any tips on getting a bit more FPS out of the round or other bullets that may work well with this setup?

My friend just bought a 1978 Buick Riviera, according to Wikipedia these cars had either the Buick 350 V8 or the Oldsmobile 403 V8 engines. Is there a quick way to visually identify which engine he has?

A few months ago I discovered that military 7.62X25 ammunition is dirt cheap, $5.50 for 70 rounds. So I purchased a 12 Ga single shot parts gun, put it back in shooting order, smoothed up the trigger to make it nice and crisp then rebarreled it with a Adams & Bennet .30 caliber 1 in 10 twist barrel blank. I rented a set of reamers and headspace gauges from Elk ridge in Montana and finished the conversion. Was able to shoot it today, but way too cold out to sight it in yet. As it sets now it has a 20" barrel, drilled and tapped for a 4X Tasco scope and I just need to blue the barrel and convert the ejector to the smaller cartridge for it to be completely finished.

The 7.62X25 case is very similar in size to a .300 Whisper. I will be experimenting with 200 gr Seirra Matchking bullets to see if I can develope subsonic loads.

All told I'm into it $210, does this sound like a reasonable conversion?

I recently bought an FN/FAL barrel that I believe came from a L1A1 rifle. I am not sure though because it's dimensions are a bit different than what I found listed on Wikipedia.

The barrel is 22 inches long, threaded at the muzzle with a small 1 inch long threaded bushing covering the threads.

It also has what looks like a 1 1/4 inch long bayonet lug about 1 inch in front of the gas block. None of the rifles pictured on the Wikipedia page had this.

The rear section of the barrel is marked with four different stamps, the first being a crown topped oval with the letters E over LG with a tiny star beneath the letters, just above the oval crown as an X with a tiny star just above the X, there is the number 68 on the left side of the barrel and an underlined J on the bottom of the barrel.

There are three more marking on the face of the chamber end of the barrel. On the top there is a 5 underneath what looks like an upside down L, to the right there is a 3 and on the left it's marked P/.9 T (which might be a mis-stamped P49 T)

Does anyone know exactly what FN/FAL rifle this came from?

My parents recently purchased a Coleman X16 canoe from a garage sale. As the number suggests it is 16 feet long, it also has a very wide and flat bottom in it. Because of it's size and flat bottom I thought it would be relatively stable out in the water.

Last night my mother and I took it out onto the lake for the first time. She weighs 160 lbs while I weight in at 280. Despite this weight difference the canoe seemed to displace water evenly.

Unfortunately it felt so tippy we thought for sure we would end up in the water. When I tried it out by myself it was even more tippy.

I have heard of using balast in a canoe. How is this done and are there any other ways to make this canoe less tippy?

Specifically, I'm asking about the dumbest actions, arguments or theories about firearms that other people have said or done when they were around you.

I think the dumbest thing I ever heard was when an aquaintance of mine told me you should never have to clean a gun because the carbon produced by the burning gunpowder thoroughly lubricates and protects your firearm from corrosion. No wonder his .22 jams all the time.

Recently a friend of mine, I'll refer to him as "Jake" has been working for an old associate of mine, I'll refer to him as "Tim" by assembling kits for a home made manufacturing device.

When Jake began describing to me what this device does, it at first sounded like a neat device. However when he mentioned certain details of how much Tim is selling this kit for, it rang alarms in my mind. I have over 16 years of manufacturing experience behind me in multiple fields including working as a gunsmith, machinist and aviation parts production.

What Tim is selling, how he is selling it and how much he sells it for just didn't add up. So I spent some time digging around until I revealed the truth of the situation.

Tim is selling kits for a device he has never completed himself, the kits are of poor quality and way overpriced. He has used fake identities to promote sales of his kits and he lies on a regular basis to explain discrepancies that potential customers might ask about.

I'm not out to shut down Tim since I know he's already on the downhill slide towards trouble. My friend Jake doesn't know these kits are bogus and he needs the money that Tim is paying him.

If possible I would rather let Tim find out on his own when the money stops. However I feel I need to ask this question first.

Can Jake get into trouble for helping Tim build these kits if there were fraud charges brought against Tim?

Does it matter if Jake knows or doesn't know if these are bogus products?

Recently a friend of mine, I'll refer to him as "Jake" has been working for an old associate of mine, I'll refer to him as "Tim" by assembling kits for a home made manufacturing device.

When Jake began describing to me what this device does, it at first sounded like a neat device. However when he mentioned certain details of how much Tim is selling this kit for, it rang alarms in my mind. I have over 16 years of manufacturing experience behind me in multiple fields including working as a gunsmith, machinist and aviation parts production.

What Tim is selling, how he is selling it and how much he sells it for just didn't add up. So I spent some time digging around until I revealed the truth of the situation.

Tim is selling kits for a device he has never completed himself, the kits are of poor quality and way overpriced. He has used fake identities to promote sales of his kits and he lies on a regular basis to explain discrepancies that potential customers might ask about.

I'm not out to shut down Tim since I know he's already on the downhill slide towards trouble. My friend Jake doesn't know these kits are bogus and he needs the money that Tim is paying him.

If possible I would rather let Tim find out on his own when the money stops. However I feel I need to ask this question first.

Can Jake get into trouble for helping Tim build these kits if there were fraud charges brought against Tim?

Does it matter if Jake knows or doesn't know if these are bogus products?

I have a Crosman model 400 .22 caliber air rifle. These were made in the 50's and 60's so I know it's at least 40 years old. It's in excellent condition, the wood has been refinished, the bluing is in 98% condition and it still shoots like it did the day it left the factory.

I decided to sell it online, when I listed it on Craigslist, some troll keeps flagging it as being a weapon and then I discovered Ebay has banned the sales of pellet rifles or BB guns on thier site, which is rediculous considering that they still sell Airsoft guns.

Are there any websites dedicated to selling vintage air rifles?

Why is it that Germans and Scandinavians are 2-3 times more likely to commit suicide than Americans and homicides with firearms in both Germany and Scandinavia has increased despite the fact that they have more controlling gun laws then America does?

http://www.foxnews.com/story/0,2933,7217,00.html

???

Ok so I finally solved the feeding issue on my Garand but now another issue has shown it's self with this rifle.

I've put 6 full Enbloc clips through this gun since it has started feeding properly. Every single one ejects out of the gun when there are 2-3 shells left in the magazine. Two of the Enblocs were Korean war issue while the rest were late 70's manufacture so I don't think it's a problem with the Enblocs.

What could be causing this issue?

Also could anyone reccomend a good Garand website where I might find a guru who knows these rifles backwards and forwards?