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The car has very little low end grunt. To get it moving you have to get the RPM way too high, then it proceeds to dig its way to China. in dirt, or tries to spin the tires on pavement. It IS quick, that's for sure.

Specs are, 9.5 to 1 pistons, 1.86 heads with stock Chevy rockers. Idlebrock 4 barrel carb, 3 speed stick, 4.10 gears. Headers and 2 inch dual exhaust.

I'm looking for something that will give me the low end grunt at a more controllable RPM. Vehicle use will be mostly for hunting with some street driving and towing a boat to the boat ramp (4 miles).

I was thinking of just going to a stock Chevy truck cam, but thought I'd ask you people in case there are any good alternatives out there. Any suggestions?

Do you take Gabapentin? If so, how much?

I take 4,000 miligrams daily. Without it I can't walk because of the pain, but I'm concerned about long term effects of the dosage. I've been on it about 10 years now. (Started out @ 200 MG per day)

I recently traded a 2002 Ram 2500 (300K miles**) in on a 2015 Ram 3500. (** note, the driveline was still great, but the body was disintegrating around it)

Way back when I got the '02, I would get about 20 MPG highway with it, but when the low sulpher fuel came out, the mileage tanked until I took a mechanic's advice and started adding a little 2 cycle oil to each tankful. It then went back up to 19 or so.

Right now the new truck is getting about 17.6 MPG. (Granted, it's geared a little lower).

NOW MY QUESTION: Will adding 2 cycle oil to the fuel help the fuel mileage?

BONUS Q: Will it hurt the injectors - or anything?

How do you tell if a jeep is a CJ-5 or

CJ-7? It's a 1976 model.

Okay, My A/C would not work at idle. I put gauge on it and it was low. I added 1 can of 234. That brought pressure up to barely within low limit, but at 85 degrees ambient, I'm getting 46 degree vent output at idle. Should I add more coolant? I live in central Texas, and 100 degree days are getting here fast.

Engine has a huge amount of crank case pressure. It blew out the intake manifold seals, which I replaced then it blew them out again.

The engine is a 90's 4 bolt block, scat crank, eagle rods and pistons at 383 CI, with 9.5 compression.The big heads (procomp) make it a blivit. in the engine bay.

NOTE:

I have had health problems for the last year or two, and the car has set for some time with only an occasional start up and a few drives around the block. I'm ok now but the Camaro isn't.

I SUSPECT I have a badly stuck compression ring or two, but now not so sure one isn't cracked

I HAVE: run a compression test all look within 5 pounds of each other. I loaded all 8 cylinders with Marvel and let it sit for 3 days. No help. #5 and #7 showed more carbon then the others so I treated them with Kroil over night. No help.

If any of you have an idea on possibly shaking a stuck ring loose I'm willing to listen. If I don't get is broke loose, I have to yank and tear it down. A real pain in the patootie with this car. (3rd gen Camaro)

.308 22" target weight (bull or fluted) barrel.

Looking more for accuracy, not so much velocity

Long story short. I have found myself with 2 rifles in 22-250. A Rem. 700 BDL and a Ruger M-77. BOTH are fine rifles, but the Remington shoots a little tighter.Both are 1 in 14 twist, which translates to 40 gr pills. Neither shoots well with heavier bullets.

I've decided I have to make a change to the Ruger. Near as I can see, These are my best options;

1: Re-barrel it with 22-250 AI with a 1 in 1=9 twist. For larger bullets/game and longer ranges.

2: Re-barrel it to .308 varmint barrel. just because. 308's are legendary for accuracy.

3: Sell it.

4: YOUR SUGGESTION? Just remember, .308 bolt face. I don't want it to languish in a smith's shop for

a year or two.

The plug on the clutch pic cable has a diode across the - and + connector pins. What is it for? It's a shabby little deal, and you would think GM could have put it at the ECM end where it's a neater install.

It's not an after mkt install. I've seen it on others. If you short it to ground (real easy with the too short insulators), it blows the A/C fuse.

Should we be allowing a couple hundred thousand - mostly unaccompanied males between 17 and 40 years old into the US?

Ban ALL gun hand gun ownership (as France did some time ago) or ease US gun laws to allow more civilian carry/self defense?

How many grains of powder are in a 1 pound can?

It s commen sense we don t shoot pointed tip bullets in ever action Winchester type tube fed guns, but what about using these new polimer tipped bullets? Do they still present a safety issue, or are they safe to use in these weapons?

JUST CURIOUS. I have a chance to score a Marlin in 45-70 - great brush/hog gun, but it could be good for longer ranges on elk, etc if loaded right. with the right bullets.

RUBBR WORM, about 6", with fins down both sides starting about 1" from nose and running passed the end of the body.

The ones I saw were white,and stripers were taking them.

Don't know the brand or name. I saw that they were in a standard type plastic bag.

I'm going to yank the engine out of my 3rd gen Camaro because of a pan leak (label that part self abuse, and forget it**) but I want to replace the rear main seal while the motor is out on the stand.

MY QUESTION, is the seal split somewhere so I can get it around the crank? It's smaller in diameter then the flywheel mount plate is. I've never done a 1 piece, and don't want to muck it up. In this car, engine pulling is a real pain. I only want to pull this motor one more time in my life.

** I managed to damage the pan last year, then used a silicone gasket on the replacement pan which is now leaking.

The under dash wiring is a spaghetti factory, and I need to find out what all is what without pulling the boat apart to trace out all wires before I hook in the new motor.

I have contacted Crestliner directly, and they advised me they don't carry wiring diagrams that far back, and referred me to dealers. Dealer I contacted said "Duh?" No help there.

Any ideas? I sure don't want to pull up all that flooring.

I'm loading 2 separate calibers, .221 fireball and 22-250.

My manual only goes down to 45 gr in the Hornaday line.

Anyone out there have a book that lists the loading data for IMR4227 in these rounds?

I can "safely" load with Speer data, but would prefer the real skinny.

NOTE: I've been all over the Hornaday site. They don't give any info on reloading.