Mason

I just bought this truck, and the previous owner did an LED conversion on it. The problem I'm having is that they only function when my high beams/brights are turned on. When you turn the brights off they start doing some kind of strobe effect. Is that normal for LED headlights? Or did they not wire it up right? I'm new to the LED scene.

2006 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7

Idles smooth as silk, no misfires, can t even feel it running. It gets up and goes when I want it to, no hesitation no stumbling, nothin. It ll run, start, and drive great for a week straight. Then just out of the blue with no warning signs at all it ll stall out. When it stalls it doesn t stumble, doesn t shake, no backfiring, nothing it just flat lines and I ll hear a ding and the dash will say check guages. When I try to start it back up it just cranks and cranks and cranks. If I give it some gas it ll eventually start back up, then it won t do it again for some time. What do you guys think it is? I know it needs a tune up, Idk if worn spark plugs would cause that or not. Maybe bad fuel pump ground? Not sure.

Not considering the PCV system

How would oil, due to oil blow by from bad piston rings, make it's way back up and all the way through the air intake system to the air filter? To me it doesnt make sense. It's not my personal vehicle, it's just something I'm trying to undersr and for curiosities sake.

How would oil get pushed up through the intake valve, when the intake valve moves air in the opposite direction of the intake system. How does oil go backwards?

Assume there's no breather tube going to the air filter box or any connection in the PCV system. Just strictly worn piston rings and the intake tubing. Can someone explain to me the path the oil takes and how it does it?

1988 F150 XLT LARIAT 2WD

Axle Code 18 - Ford 8.8 - 3.08 gears

From what I've read only the mustangs had a 28 spline and pretty much everything else had a 31. But I need to know which one mine is and if that's correct. Looking to get a locker for the rear, tired of the one tire fire. Thanks!

1988 351w 5.8L solid cam/lifters not a roller.

I'm wanting to pep its step up a little bit. I don't wanna do anything ridiculous just a supercharger and maybe a mild cam. Not gonna be a drag or race vehicle by any means, but enough to catch people off guard on the street. Can you safely supercharge (with mild cam) a 351w with all stock internals? The engine is new right now, still in the break in period so it's in good health and these plans won't happen for a little while down the road. I just wanna know if you can do this without blowing out the bottom end. Also, any recommendations for the supercharger? Size? Brand? Etc. Thanks!

2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7L V8

Coil-on-plug

We are continuously getting code P2305 - Ignition Coil "B" (Cylinder 2) Secondary Circuit. It used to only throw a code for a misfire cylinder 2, but now it's actually throwing the code for the circuit itself.

As a temporary fix in the past we've just replaced the igntion coil, and it's cleared it up for a while but it comes back after a few months. The ignition coil seems to be getting very hot, to the point where it somewhat melts the rubber boot. I can only assume there's a short to power or short to ground somewhere in the circuit. There's only 2 wires going to the ignition coil, according to ShopKey one is the Coil Control which I'm assuming is the main signal wire from the PCM. The other is the ASD Relay Output. Which from what I've read is the 12 volt supply from the relay when key is on. If im wrong, let me know.

Anyway, I'm assuming there's a short in one of these wires, but I'm not sure which one is considered the secondary circuit so I'm not sure which one to trace. If anyone could help that would be great, thanks! And if im on the wrong path, let me know that as well. I'd appreciate it.

We have one of those grey utility boxes in our back yard that says underground cable. I just went out back for the first time in a while and I looked at our box and it's got wires hanging all out of it one of them has been cut, and there's a bright orange cable running from the box, under the fence into the neighbors back yard to there house. Its not tehcniclaly spliced, its screwed into the "brick" or whatever it is where the cables are coming out. There was no attempt at burying it at all its just laying there. It looks fairly new it's not dirty. I talked to my mom and she said a month or so ago a guy came to the house claiming to be with "the cable company" and asked permission to go into the backyard. She doesn't remember if his shirt had a company name but she said he was dressed fairly nice. Does this sound like they are stealing our cable? She didn't think he'd ask permission if he was legit, but I think it was to prevent us from calling the cops and so that we would bring our dogs inside. What do y'all think? Would the cable company do such a piss poor job of running cable? Who should I call? Our cable company or the number on the utility box?

So I got some weird **** going on with my truck. It's a 1988 F150. The passenger side brake light won't illuminate when brakes are pressed, but the driver side does. Of course one of them working eliminates the fuse. The bulb is good in fact it's new. The socket itself is very clean no dirt or any other contaminants that would cause a bad connection. No visible damage to the wires that I can see. Now here's where it gets weird. It's a 2 stage bulb, acting as the brake light and the running light. BOTH filaments inside the bulb work. One lights up when the headlights are turned on, the other one turns on (flashes) when the blinker is switched on. So the bulb is getting full power to each connector. Which means the problem is most likely in the brake circuit itself, correct me if im wrong. Could a bad brake light switch cause this? I've replaced it once before due to another concern. Or would it be a wiring problem between the brake light switch and the bulb? Any help would be great.

I have a 1988 F-150 with a 351W V8. Engine came out of a 1995 Ford E-150. Its an electronic ignition system with one ignition coil, a distributor (no points), and a TFI Module, etc. Mounted next to the ignition coil is a can shaped condenser/capacitor that has a wire going to the igntion coil plug. What purpose does that condenser serve? What would the symptoms be if this went bad? If any. What does it do? I've heard and read several different things and I can't seem to find anything related to a system that doesn't have a points distributor. Mine doesn't have points, so why do I have a condenser?

1995 Ford 351W 5.8L need to know so I can torque them properly and I can't find anything online. Also, can I just torque them all down? Or do I have to rotate the engine over and torque each cylinder separately? Any info would be great.

When did this become mandatory, or should I say when did it start being installed on every standard transmission vehicle from the factory?

Also, how does it work? I don't mean like it stops the car from starting that's obvious. What does it disable? Does it stop fuel from going to the engine? Does it disable the ignition system (spark)? I've seen vehicles crank over perfectly fine without the clutch pushed in, on older vehicles. But never knew what exactly is disabled to prevent the vehicle from starting.

Just started yesrerday, airbag light goes on and off. Seems to only come on when putting on the brakes, when you accelerate it usually goes off. As soon as you apply the brakes it comes right back on. Sometimes it works that way, sometimes it has a mind of its own. The fuse is good, other than that im not sure what there is i can check. I'm in school to be a mechanic and I work at a shop so I know a decent amount about cars, but airbags is one sensitive topic I try to avoid. I'd rather save it for someone that knows about them, but I'd like to have some ideas about what it could be. Could it be the clockspring or control module? Or is there something else that's more likely. Please keep the sarcastic comments to yourself, I'm also using this as amother oppurtunity to learn something. Any ideas would be appreciated.

1997 Ford F150 5.4 Triton V8 SONG

Is it interference or noninterference engine?

Ok, guys! Need some professional input/opinions. Got a 1997 Ford F150 5.4 Triton V8, somewhere around 150k miles all original. Not my truck. Burns oil like crazy smoking blue smoke out the tail pipe. Just had a tune up (done by someone else) I was told it wasnt smoking like this until it came back from a 6 hour road trip both directions. The oil was almost completely gone, barely registered on dipstick, topped it off and it smoked even more. No visible leaks. Check engine light also occasionally flashes. Also idles very poorly, misfires and wants to stall out. It's throwing the following codes:

P0174

P0136

P1131

P1151

P0302

P0171

Everything seems to me like the piston rings are worn badly, and the 6 hour road trips just finished them off. 02 sensor codes could be caused by oil coating the sensors, misfire from oil in combustion chamber, oil could be clogging the catalytic converter. Just wanted to run it by some seasoned mechanics to see what y'all think. It doesn't overheat either. Thanks guys!

2004 dodge ram 1500 4.7L - has individual coils for each cylinder.

On cylinder 2 it s continuously "blowing" the ignition coil. It s blown it at least 6 times in the last year if not more, twice in the last month. It ll throw a code for misfire cylinder 2 we ll replace the ignition coil and it ll go away for a few months and then come back on. It s not just the code it will actually misfire like a ***** too until it s replaced. I haven t had the time to do any further testing since it s not my truck. When I pull the coil there s not saturation on it, no melting or indication of burning, nothing to say the coil would be bad other than misfire and check engine light. Spark plugs are good oem chempion plugs gapped correctly. I haven t tested the ignition coils I ve taken out do to lack of time and I keep all my tools at work including my DMM. When I replaced it again today I pulled back some of the tape on the plug wire itself and didn t see any damage, stripping, or burning. Could be further back but it was dark and didn t have the time or patience to look.

Any one have any suggestions as to what it could be? Wiring?(PCM signal wire or power wire?) PCM itself? Etc. Any info would be great thanks

What damage can occur, will it effect connecting rods and/or rod bearings, and why would it cause oil pressure to drop?

I've heard yes and I've heard no. Idk who to believe. I know it has 3 timing chains but I don't know if that makes a difference. It's in a dodge ram 1500.

A master mechanic friend of mine who used to work for Dodge said that all dodge ram trucks technically have Hemi engines, because they all have hemispherical heads on them. Is this true?

Once it's warmed up to operating temp completely it runs like normal. But when it first starts, even if I wait like 5 minutes, once I get started driving I can have it floored and it just doesn't go anywhere. It acts like it's gonna stall out. It's like, jerks, runs jerks runs. Almost like a really really hard misfire. But not. It's hard to explain. But I have no idea what it is. It's only after it sits all night. If I leave it for a few hours and come back it's fine. But after sitting all night it will not drive. Like I can't even go the speed limit even tho it's floored. Any ideas? Fuel pressure Is 35psi at idle. About 40psi when pressure regulator vacuum line is unhooked. Spark plugs and wires are new, coil is new, distributor, cap, rotor, and ICM are all new. Map sensor is new. Coolant temp sensor, act sensor, ECM, fuel filters are new, etc. Idk what it could be. Any ideas?? Here's the specs:

1988 F150 XLT Lariat Long Bed

5.8L 351W V8 out of a 1995 (not related to current issue, engine is almlst exactly the same, all sensors are 88 so they all work with ECM, which came preflashed btw. Problem is recent)

1988 F150 XLT Lariat 351w 5.8L

Dual gas tanks

Lately I've been having a bad hesitation and surging while driving. Like a really hard misfire but worse. I can have the pedal floored and it will act like it's gonna die one second then drive the next second. Like literally with a second between. Surges and jerks hard. It's got spark, new wires new plugs new coil new cap and rotor etc. The only thing I see it being is it's not getting enough fuel. I think the injectors are ok, there's fuel getting to the rail cuz I hit the test port valve and fuel did come out. It didn't spray like crazy but it squirted a decent amount. It's got new fuel filters and new fuel pressure regulator. This truck has 3 fuel pumps, 2 low pressure in-tank pumps and 1 high pressure pump mounted in-line on the frame. My main question is, does the high pressure fuel pump "prime" and make that buzzing noise like the pump in the tank does? Do they prime at the same time? How can check or test to see if this high pressure pump is bad? I don't have a multimeter so that's out of the question.