Frankie-J

About 9mo ago I got a judgement against me for a debit. I calmed my exemptions and they where approved. One of the exemptions was my car. My car has since been totaled , leaving me with no car.

My father-in-law wants to give me his old car. The value of his car is right at the state exemption limit of $3500 (North Carolina).

Since I'm acquiring the car after I had exemptions designed, does the $3500 nc exemption still hold our will the sheriff be able to sieze the car right away?

In other words, if I put this car in my name will it be seized to pay the debit without the $3500 allowance ? Or would the crediter have to serve me with another exemption notice ?

Putting the car in someone else name is NOT an option.

Thanks

Tricky question. 9 months ago had a judgement entered against me for a $4500 debit. At the time I owned one car that I claimed exempt and it was approved. Since then that car has been totaled and sold for scrap. Now my father-in-law wants to give me his old car. Since i already have claimed my exemptions How can I protect the new car ? The state I live in (nc) allows for 1 car exemption up to $3500. The car that is being give to me is worth around $3000

since I already claimed the one car exempt will they come and take the new car right away? If so, will I receive another notice of exemptions or will the sheriff just show up and take it since it was purchased after the previous exemptions ?

Putting the car in a false name or adding Co owners is out of the question.

Thanks

Tricky question. 9 months ago had a judgement entered against me for a $4500 debit. At the time I owned one car that I claimed exempt and it was approved. Since then that car has been totaled and sold for scrap. Now my father-in-law wants to give me his old car. Since i already have claimed my exemptions How can I protect the new car ? The state I live in (nc) allows for 1 car exemption up to $3500. The car that is being give to me is worth around $3000

since I already claimed the one car exempt will they come and take the new car right away? If so, will I receive another notice of exemptions or will the sheriff just show up and take it since it was purchased after the previous exemptions ?

Putting the car in a false name or adding Co owners is out of the question.

Thanks

This one is for all you car audiophile's out their.

Here is the rundown of all the parts i installed in my 2001 mustang GT convertible.

:Pioneer AVH-P4000DVD double din dvd headunit.

:Polk Audio A660 4-channel amp.

:Polk Audio DB6501 db Series 6.5" Component Set (rear)

:Infinity REF6830CS 6x8 Component Set (front) (Blows the polks out of the water BTW)

:8awg wiring kit.

All the speakers are run off the amp, not the headunit.

Now here is the issue. After the amp install, I have a high pitched squeal coming though the speakers that follows the engine RPM. It gets louder as the gain is increased on the amp.

Ive rewired the headunit from the factory harness and gave it it's own ground that is less then 8" away .

I have moved the ground from the amp several times with no change.

I have two sets of RCA cables run to the amp (one on each side of the car), If I unplug ONE of them from the amp the "hum" goes away. It don't matter which set I remove (front or rear) removing just one set makes the hum stop.

Any ideas?

Im wiring a large 17.5 amp air compressor in my garage. I was planing on using either 10 AWG THHN wire run in flexible conduit, or just a 10/2 portable power cable.

However, I have a new 50' roll of solid 10/2 wire that I have no use for. The run will only be 8' from the breaker box to the compressor, and will be run in flexible conduit.

Are they any reason I would not want to use the solid 10/2 ? other then it is harder to pull? Are they any major amp drop with stranded vs solid?

A couple of years ago I had a banck account that I used daily. One day it went from +$1200 to -$4000. I called the bank and they said that I withdrew $5200 cash from my account, and that is what overdrafted my account. First off, I never took any money out of my account, and 2nd no way in heck would a free checking account allow me to remove $5200 cash from an account with only $1200 in it. It's just not going to happen, the teller would laugh at me if I tried. . The bank never agreed that it was an error on their part, and held firm that I removed money from my account that was not their. They ended up charging me the $4000 and closing my account.

I continued to fight the bank and all their debit collectors, over the phone and via the mail, with no luck.

Fast forward to a almost a year ago, I recieved a civil summons for this debit, and I answered it right away stating that it was not my fault, and that the debit is NOT valid, nor could it be proved. Over 8 moths went by since then and I thought that it was over..

Well today I get a large packet in the mail that includes a summary judgement from the clerk of court, as well as a short copy of my bank statement and a copy of the signed bank account agreement. Nothing that that shows where the debit came from, or how the debit happened. Only their record of the debit itself.

Now my question(s) are, is this a defult judgement? Is the judgement allready in place?

If not, what do I need to do now? WIll I get to go to court to plead my case?

Ive been unempolied for 2.5 years and just now (6 weeks ago) got another job and im just starting to get back on my feet, However, I do not have ANY money for an attorany, nor could I get it.

My big concern is I own a house, free and clear valued at $65K. Im very concerned that this bank may force the sell of my home. Im hoping that they will only place a lein on it, but with it paid off, Im worried they may try and take it.

Please help.

Ive got a 2001 mercury cougar that has a strange drivers side front end hum/rumble. It happens at ALL speeds (even 1mph), but gets louder and faster the faster you go. The sound gets much louder when the transmission is holding back the car. (ie: going down a hill in low gear) OR when making left turns. It started within 1000 miles of having the transmission replaced. And you cant feel it while driving, you only hear it.

The tires are new and not dipped with good wear pattern on old. , wheel bearings look and feel ok. CV joint boots are all in tact and nothing appears to be loose. Ball joints, bushings rotors and brakes all good shape.

any ideas? CV joint out of balance? Wheel bearing? im stumped.

We have several laptops in our house hold and only one portable hard drive that we are always swapping to. Are they anyway to set up the hard drive so that all laptops can access it (wireless)? maybe via wifi?

thanks.

Can I use Liquid nails (subfloor or HD) to glue down 3/8" thick engineered hardwood flooring? If so what are the disadvantages vs urethane flooring glue? And if not, why?

The manufacturer's directions say the floor can be installed over wood sub flooring via nailed, glued or floating (with glued joints). Urethane flooring glue runs $40 per gallon/(40sq ft) at both Lowes and Home depot. Liquid nails would be much cheaper and simple to use. The room is small at only 130sq ft.

thanks

On my 1997 blazer the 4x4 won't engage correctly. It is the push button style. It seems like it goes into 4wd perfectly (hi or low). When you put it in 4wd (hi or low) the light flashes for a sec and you hear a click on the inside, followed by the sound of the transfer case.. However, when stuck only the rear wheels spin.

The dash lights stay on just like it is in 4wd, and even the transmission gears down like it should, but the front wheels have no power to them.

What do you think it could be?

Im interested in learning about rebuilding car battery's. I have a 4 year old Duralast battery that will not hold enough amps. It will hold enough of a charge to run headlights, radio etc, but does not have enough amps to start a car engine. The battery went bad from the lack of use (sat for almost a year in garage) It worked fine before it was stored.

I found out that you can buy a large bottle of battery acid from advance auto for $10, and I would like to see if simply replacing the fluid will restore the battery.

Are they any type of diagnostics you can do to determine what it is about the battery that is bad? For example, How can you tell the difference between a bad cell, and one just needing acid? Or even better, the difference between a rebuildable core and one that is completely dead?

I have a 1997 blazer that was involved in a minor front end collision. While parked, It was backed into by a large box truck. The point of impact was 10" above the frame, and centered more on the drivers side front, but did damage across 70% of the front. It damaged the bumper, grille, drivers headlight, drivers fender, hood, and top of the core support.

The impact was at headlight level. Nothing ever came in contact with the frame.

I have all the new (used) parts bolted up, but I can NOT get the front clip to line up. The only way to get all the gaps correct and the hood to shut, is to unbolt the radiator core support and move the entire front clip to the drivers side 1 inch.

But when I do that, the radiator core support frame bolts and the front bumper are off by the 1"

Before I purchased the blazer back from insurance, I had it put on a frame machine at a local body shop and was told that it had NO FRAME DAMAGE. Ive also inspected the frame myself multiple times and can not find any signs of damage or movement.

My questions are: Since everything bolts up perfectly,and it has been on a frame machine, Is it possible that the whole cab/body (firewall to tailgate) has moved? Are they ANY room for adjustment in the body mounts?

Thanks

Im going to sell some stuff at the local flea market/swap meet tomorrow and I have tons of DVD moves I would like to sell/get rid of. What is a good price for used DVD movies? Does anyone even buy dvd's anymore? Im was thinking $1 each?

what do you guys think is a good deal for a dvd movie?

thanks

My Garmin died yesterday and I really need a GPS today. Anyone witch GPS app is the best for the Iphone 3g? I don't want to pay $49.99 for the tom tom or garmin app, so what would be the best one under $20?

thanks

My Toshiba A305-s6898 laptop screen just died. I was watching a move in full screen (like I do everyday) and it all of a sudden went black. When I restart the computer (hard start) the screen comes on for a few secs and shows the normal windows 7 start up screen then just before it loads my desktop, it goes all black again. For the few secs that the screen works, it has a red hue to it,

Im able to hook up a monitor via the HDMI output and it works as it should, however the screen is still out.

Is this a video card failure or a LCD failure? Seems like if it where the LCD then it would not come on at all, however it seems like if it where the video card, the HDMI would not work either...

What do you guys think? Any software changes I should try before I scrap the laptop?

I want to test the metal via a rockwell hardness test, on some hand tools to compare the strengths of different brands. (wrenches, sockets, ratchets etc)

Where would have a rockwell hardness machines? Would a normal automotive machine shop have one?

Im super tired over everyone telling me im skinny. Im 27, male, 5'10" at 145lbs. Not super under weight, but still small.

I eat as much as I possibly can. Every meal I physically make myself eat until im sick. I am a picky eater. Most of the foods I like are generally low fat: For example, I don't eat sweets, nor do I eat many fried foods. I eat mostly soups, fish, chicken, burgers, steaks & vegetables (cooked).

Ive tried drinking instant breakfast drinks daily(3x), drinking tons of whole milk, Ive took "weight gainer" pills from GNC, and ive tired to be a lazy slob. Nothing works. I can go weeks without gaining a single pound, Yet If skip a meal I loose weight.

Are they ANYTHING I can do to safely gain 20-30 pounds? Are they any pills (that work) that slow down your metabolism? maybe doctor prescribed?

thanks

I have a 96 chevy 5.7L TBI engine that is giving me issues that I need advice with. When you first crank it, it runs horrible. Just to crank it and keep it running you must give it a slight amount of throttle. And even then, if you attempt to put it in gear it will die. If you force it to drive while cold (two foot it) it spits and sputters until warm. However, once it gets warm all symptoms go away.

Outside temperatures have no effect on it.

So far ive changed/checked :

: Spark plugs

: Spark plug wires,

: Dist cap and rotor,

: Fuel filter, & Air filter.

: New cat converter.

Ive checked:

: No codes stored in ECM

: Compression is between 110-120 on all cylinder's.

: EGR has been cleaned and inspected.

: Fuel pressure is 14psi (normal for TBI).

: All vacuum lines have been checked and replaced if questioned.

Im thinking that it maybe either the o2 sensor (before cat) or the temperature sensor as that are the only two things I know of that are effected by engine temperature.

What do you guys think?

If it is the temperature sensor, any one know where it is located at on a 96 5.7L TBI ? I know their are two of them, one for the gauge and one for the ECM. One is located in the head and the other on the intake. But witch one is for the ECM>

Ive got a 1996 chevy 1-ton work van that I need some advice on. To sum it up, it runs like $hit.

It's hard to start, and when you do get it started it will run for a little while until the choke cuts off and then it will die. It also dies when you go to put it in gear. To keep it running, you have to keep it at approx 15% throttle. The ECM shows no codes.

: Ive changed the plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor, & fuel filter, with no improvement.

: Ive checked the compression of all 8-cyls and they all show good (110-120psi),

: The ECM has no codes, pending or stored.

: All vacuum lines have been replaced and triple checked, The firing order has been triple checked.

: Their are no leaks around the intake, throttle body, EGR, etc.

Im thinking it is maybe the o2 sensors or the ignition module? What do you guys think? I can't keep tossing money at it.

thanks.

If you buy a house with cash (insurance settlement) and get married two years latter with no prenup of any kind, legally does your spouse get any ownership of said house? This is in NC if that matters