adiabaticfire

I have been researching the ingredients of the now well known "KGB pill" or RU21 as its called in the states. I couldn't find some ingredients though and can't find a actual store that sells the RU21 tablets other than online. any drinkers out there know where I'm likely to find these? or if I can find a health store or something that sells a useful form of succinic and fumaric acid that would be super as I can't find them despite being common.

i've been designing a negative "buck" converter for charging lead acid batts useing a conventional 60 Hz transformer /diodes/capacitor switched by a 3524/IRFZ44/freewheel diode/large inductor with good core. i tried to set the current limit about 12 amps with the sense resistor between the FET source lead and the negative side of the input cap/circuit ground. everything works smooth mostly with low inductance but the mosfet blows when the output is shorted for long enough. Im surprised the current limiting is not protecting it and that it blows easy at all for that matter, its rated to 50 amps with excellent heat sinking(which I have). the main transformer is not very large either. anyone have ideas about how to track down whats taking out the FET that switches the current?

also the FET's turn on/turn off time combined is about 2 micro seconds and the clock freq is about 50 KHz.

this is a long shot of course but does anyone know just why it is that IGBT is more popular for things like welding power supplies vs MOSFET's? I think it must be only cause IGBT's work well in a linear fashion where as with MOSFETS the output must be modulated using pulse width modulation but I wonder if there is some other reason that I'm missing. I plan to build an inverting supply of 300-400 Amps useing between 20-100KHz PWM through about 20-40 IRFZ40's(MOSFETS) to get anything from square waves to sine and sawtooth. but after looking at schematics of welders I wonder if there some reason that I would be better off getting some IGBT's. I have a plan already to buffer the output and protect the MOSFET's. I expect there will be few if any people that know what I'm talking about but I figure its worth a shot on answers. thanks in advance to anyone that tries to help.

hello I'm building a TIG welder and have found the output from my stick welders to be not so good for aluminum(60 Hz on one). I've heard that high frequency AC is the way to do AL but am not sure what constitutes "high". I do have a nice miller gas driven welder also that is maybe triple the frequency of my line driven one but still had issues with it. does anyone know of an actual # ? I may be able to build an inverting PWM supply eventually to do this but am not sure what I would need it to do. does anyone have any data that might help? any data/tips about aluminum would be appreciated, thanks in advance. FYI I do understand why AC works so much better on AL, what with the oxides that are always present.

does anyone happen to know the voltage output for junctions of copper/chromel and copper/alumel? i have a type K thermocouple going in a car but its not long enough so i must make a extension with a junction under the hood where the temperature will fluctuate some. the junction in the cab don't worry me since it will be fairly steady but if the one under the hood generates much voltage i fear it may screw with my readings as the temperature climbs. its not super accurate anyways, just for measuring turbo case temp. thanks in advance to anyone that can help.

this is a long shot but does anyone know of any jewlers or metal suppliers that will sell bars of actual shakudo? it cannot be anything but copper and gold of course, no lesser alloys. ive had no luck on ebay yet and have no idea where i should start looking. im not interested in salvaging it from wares, if i was willing to do that id be making my own instead. if anyone happens to know about traditional Japanese finishing of shakudo that would be super too. i would need to ship it to the united states FYI.

thanks in advance to anyone that can help.

just wondering if there is anyone on answers that might know about the possible max discharge rates for typical AA size batts of the NiMH type? i have some DEWalt tools like drills and am sick of fixing the NiCd batt packs. i figure i could fit about 15-16 AA's in a pack(18.75 and 20 volts) but worry about the higher internal resistance of the NIMH vs the NiCd batts. with 20 volts unloaded i figure i might get enough current to run drills and such but hear NiMH can only often do like 2-3C where as NiCd can do like 10-20C which would be what i would want with NiMH for sure. is it possible to do like 10C with a NiMH batt?( C is capacity in amp hours, a 2.5 A/h batt is 2.5 amps @ 1C) FYI i know all about the issues with charging, self discharge and such, i just want to know if any consumer type batts might be capable of such a fast discharge rate that i would need. also don't try to scare me with the warning of exceeding 18 volts, im not worried. the thought of temperature rise during discharge has occurred to me and i do wonder about that.

re asking this one as i got nothing last time. is there an economical way to remove cadmium plating from steel bolts, chains etc? it would make welding easier as well as safer. there are other things id like to get down to steel as well for blueing. anyone know of a practical way?

here is a link to a pic i took of something that came out of a CVT clutch driven pulley on an ATV. i already know what they are but wonder if someone else will guess. they did not used to look like this FYI. im amazed the clutch is still ok otherwise(mostly)

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...

here is a link(or just an address) to a pic i took of two plugs, one is from #4 on the right and the other is #1 on my F2 mazda(inline 4 with a turbo, just rebuilt). i am ready to blame oil for the deposits on the one on the right but if someone has a different opinion please answer this question and tell me what you think it is. it gets thicker under light driving and gets normal looking the more i drive hard under turbo boost. the one on left looks just like #'s 2 and 3 as well, its only #4 thats bad. im about ready to blame the exhaust valve guide seal but again would love a second opinion. i checked the fuel injectors before installing them but wonder if its even a sticky injector.

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...

hi all i have a 99 forester with a 2.5 liter and the radiator has a bad tank it seems(the cheap aluminum/plastic kind). i figure a new or good used one should do it but have never done a subaru radiator and wonder if the front of the engine may need to come apart somewhat. its kinda tight so i figure maybe some one knows for sure on here and i should ask. also it looked like a lot of radiators from other models might fit too, like from an older legacy even. if anyone can tell me what im getting into id appreciate their advice, thanks!

i just recently ansewed a question where another answer implied that useing an inter cooler will affect the engines performance at lower rpm with a turbo(at least on an LS1). i realize he was talking mostly about inadvertant heating of the cooler in traffic but still of the zillion things ive heard to affect the shape of the torque curve this was a new one. can anyone explain how/why this would affect it? i realize there is more volume in the system this way but other than that i see little difference all other things equal. i would think the torque curve would be equally higher across the rpm range with a cooler. i do realize most coolers don't get air flow when the car is stopped, but what about if there was a fan keeping it cool? it does make sense to me that sitting in hot traffic would just heat the cooler/piping up but i figure with a fan that would not apply. i use a water sprayer on mine which i figure works too. is there any reason besides the poor effeciency/inadvertant heating in traffic that a cooler would affect this? im very curious now.

hi all, i have been makeing wine for a few years now and recently started useing sodium metabisulfite. ive used it to "stabilize" the wine before bottling so i can sweeten it. also though im told its a useful preservative as it acts as a sacrificial antioxidant. my concern is what is the best way to use it as a preservative? should i mix it before bottling or add it to the bottle right after its filled? ive noticed that the color of some of my wines (rhubarb for example) changes the instant i mix sulfite in. i have had no issue with aroma or anything that i can perceive but i am inexperienced so i wonder if anyone on answers knows for sure. any advice is appreciated. also im well aware of the fact that sulfites are not all that healthy, like MSG. im not too worried. part of my concern about this is the fact that people tell me sulfites break down and leave the wine when its open to the air. i figured this is why you should let your wine "breath" after popping the cork. thanks in advance.

recently got a older winchester in 40-82 wcf and was pleased to find a few people still sell that caliber. but the best price i found new/reloaded was about 2 $ a round. anyone maybe know where i should look to find new and used brass/ammo for a decent price? i don't know when the gun was made and am not sure if its black powder or smokeless yet. i mainly want the brass/a set of dies of course. thanks in advance.

ok i recently asked about no spark on a honda 90 and got a good answer i think. i replaced the batt with a couple of capacitors and it ran great. but it stalls when the lights are turned on. checked wiring and repaired shorted wires. now it will turn on the head lamp barely(it glows orange) and will stall the engine still. i figured once its running the generator would put out enough to run the lights and ign with just a fat capacitor but it dies every time and barely heats up the lamp filament. would a battery solve this issue( seems like it wouldn't if the thing can't generate the power anyways) or is it a sign of bad windings maybe? whats really weird is that it stalls even when the lights are off but the switch is in the lights on position. my volt meter reads about 8 volts until the ign switch is moved to the lights on position and then goes to almost 0 even though the lights are not actually connected and putting it under load(that i can tell). again i am confused. help please?!

i have a late 60's trail 90 and i tuned it up and ran great but now won't spark. did points, checked wireing and found that it starts right up with a battery (it has a small 6 volt batt). won't start or stay running without batt despite the fact that it did not a month ago. i thought the batt was for an electric start function cause of the 3 position switch. anyone have any experience with these? maybe bad condenser, coil or something? ive never had one not start just cause the battery was gone, im a bit confused. i checked stator out put and it dose produce voltage just not a lot. any help is appreciated!

turbo freaks; when bolting a cast iron manifold to an aluminum head what manner of gasket is best in your opinion? it would be a mazda F series engine with al head, an IHI tubo and heavy cast manifold. i will wrap it up in turbo wrap and it should run about say 1500-1800 degrees F. ive done this before at about 8 psi boost and it worked good but im worried about blowing the soft gaskets with more pressure. i don't know what they are usually made of but i figure that the gasket should insulate the head from the turbo so im not sure if metal gaskets would be good. anyone have experience with different gasket materials?

is there anyone here on answers that has had any issue with modern low sulpher fuel in older cummins engines like on dodge trucks? ive heard that the low sulpher content can allow for faster wear on the injector pump. just wondering if there is anything to be said for adding additives to make up for it. i don't like the idea of a premature pump failure.

ever since the beginning man was born into a state of freedom. he was not born so that he might submit to rules or to a master, this thought has occurred to me. my question is this; the duties of a warrior, does this philosophy not contradict them?

there was something besides oil that he tried first with mixed success.