Co Con.

Five years ago I was hired as a sub-custodian for a municipal school district. At the time, and currently my father is the maintenance supervisor for the building I have worked at. I have been an exemplary employee without any complaint/referrals. I have applied for a full time position and am being denied the request because my dad is the supervisor, however I've worked for 5 years under the same circumstances that this employment would entail. I am the best qualified applicant, and have other administrators fighting on my behalf. What can i do to get the position? Do i have legal recourse?

I live in MA and am going to be purchasing a vehicle off of my parents, KBB on the vehicle is $10k. To save money at the registry I am going to claim it's a gift, and not pay sale's tax, but what about federal and state gift taxes, will I be liable to those, or do they not apply?

I live in Massachusetts have a valid driver's Mass. license, and a motorcycle permit. My primary mode of transportation is a motorcycle which is properly registered/insured, however, on occasion (very rarely) I drive my parents car. If I am in a car accident while operating my parent's vehicle, and I am at fault or would i be covered under my parent's insurance?

I'm trying to use the windows 8 music app while on my desktop, but whenever i switch between tiles music playback stops, what is causing this?

I am currently looking into purchasing a nVidia GTX660 GPU (spec link below) I do not intend to Use Dual SLI Cards, however in the additonal information section it says "3 - A GeForce GTX 660 Ti GPU must be paired with another GeForce GTX 660 Ti GPU". Does this only mean in the case of wanting to use it's SLI capabilities, or that I must purchase and install 2 cards?

http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/gefor...

Intel Core 2 Quad Q8300 Processor (2.5-GHz, 4 MB L2 cache, 1333-MHz FSB)

or

Intel Core 2 Duo E8600 Processor (3.33-GHz, 6 MB L2 cache, 1333-MHz FSB)

Logic would tell me that the Quad Core Processor would be faster even if each core only puts out 2.5ghz i should overpower 2 3.33ghz processors, however the Dual Core Processor costs about $100 more.

I have and HP Pro 3000MT computer, running both Windows 7 and Windows 8 Pro 64 bit.

http://h18004.www1.hp.com/products/quickspecs/1348...

It currently has:

Pentium Dual Core 2.70 GHZ Processor

Zotac NVIDIA GEFORCE GT 610 GPU

300W Power Supply

8gb DDR3 RAM

I'm looking to get the most out of this computer between $400 and $600. What would you recommend as far as parts/mods. I do not want to change the motherboard, i'm not opposed to changing the power supply if need be.

I'd like this rig to be able to play Arma 2, Battlefield, things of that nature.

Thanks ahead for your time, I know alot about computers, but it's not exactly my life, so i figured i'd ask for advice from those who work with them all the time.

My 1984 Camaro has a manual Borg Warner T5 Transmission, with a 350 c.i. engine 2 peice rear main seal. I am currently building another 350 that came out of 1998 Chevy Van, it has a 1 peice rear main seal. I was wondering if the bolt patterns where the Flywheel/Flexplate mount to the Crankshaft will be the same between the two engines.

I have received more than my fair share of traffic citations and am wondering if my license will be suspended in MA if I am convicted of another offense.

Below is my record.

Speed: July 2010, October 2010

Illegal Maneuver (U-turn): October 2011

No Insurance: November 2011

At-Fault Accident: July 2012

Speed: Sept 2012 (citation in question)

I am mandated to take a drivers safety course after the accident in July, and just received a citation for doing 5 over yesterday. I plan on fighting the ticket, but if I lose is my license going to be suspended and for how long.

Please don't judge or criticize my driving, I am here for valid info, not for a lecture.

Thanks.

I just recently installed a Sony X-Plod head unit (52 watt X 4), a 500 watt subwoofer, and a 600 Watt Kenwood Amp. The sound keeps cutting out and the head unit resets itself. The amp is connected to the subwoofer alone. The issue seems to be volume dependent and occurs more frequently when I have more draw on the battery (ex. headlights, dome lights, electric fan). I just re-ran the ground and hot wire to the amp to see if this solved the issue (there is a power light on the amp, when the head unit shuts off the light on the amp does not). I have yet to check the ground wire on the head unit, I am considering running a separate hot and ground to the head and connecting it to a switch so it runs independent of the ignition, do you think this may solve the issue.

I just recently installed a Sony X-Plod head uni (52 watt X 4)t, a 500 watt subwoofer, and a 600 Watt Kenwood Amp. The sound keeps cutting out and the head unit resets itself. The amp is connected to the subwoofer alone. The issue seems to be volume dependent and occurs more frequently when I have more draw on the battery (ex. headlights, dome lights, electric fan). I just re-ran the ground and hot wire to the amp to see if this solved the issue (there is a power light on the amp, when the head unit shuts off the light on the amp does not). I have yet to check the ground wire on the head unit, I am considering running a separate hot and ground to the head and connecting it to a switch so it runs independent of the ignition, do you think this may solve the issue.

I was in a car accident. In the accident my head hit the rear view mirror, in doing this I left behind a lair of skin and hair about the size of a silver dollar. I'm concerned whether my hair is going to grow back, I was treated at the ER where they put gel-foam strips on the area to cover the wound, but i'm wondering what my options are.

I was in a car accident. In the accident my head hit the rear view mirror, in doing this I left behind a lair of skin and hair about the size of a silver dollar. I'm concerned whether my hair is going to grow back, I was treated at the ER where they put gel-foam strips on the area to cover the wound, but i'm wondering what my options are.

Ok, so I have an 84 Camaro with a freshly rebuilt 350. Mild cam, exhaust headers, Edelbrok Performer intake manifold, and a Holley 600-650CFM Carb (not quite sure Autozone Special!! lol) and I'm not quite sure how to run the vacuum lines with this setup, nor do I know if they were ever ran correctly in the first place... I kind of purchased a nightmare... but anyways. I have a nice set of Edelbrok Valve covers on it, one side has a PCV port, the other a breather port. The intake has one vacuum port on it, and the carb is pretty standard, there is one large vacuum port in the rear, another in the front (currently capped).

Currently I have the pcv valve hooked up to the Vacuum line on the rear of the carb, and the power brakes hooked up to the vacuum port on the intake itself, and I have a breather in the breather port.

The problem is at idle oil visibly is blowing out of the breather, and it gets worse as RPM's are increased.. I'm wondering if there's a specific way the vacuum lines should be set up or if I should change the open style breather for a close one that I can put a vacuum line on, and rout into intake??? I still have the "can" but it's not hooked into anything.. I don't know if that can help me..

I've heard a million horror stories about how I may have bad piston rings or valve seals (These were all replaced during the rebuild about 5k miles ago) after reading about this on various forums.. I've been trying to track down the oil leak from hell and will likely be pulling the engine this upcoming weekend to find and fix that. But I really want to know if I should tear further into the engine to try and fix this issue while it's on a stand.. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Ohh, and another note that might help, the PVC Valve sounds like a goddam BB bouncing around under the valve covers (there's plenty of vacuum lol and the noise goes away with time) and as far as I could tell, no signs of coolant anywhere int he crankcase (to rule out manifold/head gasket leaks... Car runs about 50 PSI at Idle (700 rpm) and once the block heats up (180 degrees or so) it drops down to 35-40 PSI. I haven't ran a compression test, I just put new plugs in it, the old ones looked about normal(fouling looked the same across the board)

Thanks for your help (anybody who responds) feel free to ask questions, I tried to throw in as much info as possible.

Additional Details

There is no baffle under the breather, but there is under the PCV valve. The one under the breather looks like it was once existent but it had been removed. I know the timing is a little off could that cause the problem? I've localized the leak to somewhere behind the block, below the intake manifold, but above the oil pan gasket.. So it's either from the rear main, or one of the oil journal plugs at the back of the block..

Ok, so I have an 84 Camaro with a freshly rebuilt 350. Mild cam, exhaust headers, Edelbrok Performer intake manifold, and a Holley 600-650CFM Carb (not quite sure Autozone Special!! lol) and I'm not quite sure how to run the vacuum lines with this setup, nor do I know if they were ever ran correctly in the first place... I kind of purchased a nightmare... but anyways. I have a nice set of Edelbrok Valve covers on it, one side has a PCV port, the other a breather port. The intake has one vacuum port on it, and the carb is pretty standard, there is one large vacuum port in the rear, another in the front (currently capped).

Currently I have the pcv valve hooked up to the Vacuum line on the rear of the carb, and the power brakes hooked up to the vacuum port on the intake itself, and I have a breather in the breather port.

The problem is at idle oil visibly is blowing out of the breather, and it gets worse as RPM's are increased.. I'm wondering if there's a specific way the vacuum lines should be set up or if I should change the open style breather for a close one that I can put a vacuum line on, and rout into intake??? I still have the "can" but it's not hooked into anything.. I don't know if that can help me..

I've heard a million horror stories about how I may have bad piston rings or valve seals (These were all replaced during the rebuild about 5k miles ago) after reading about this on various forums.. I've been trying to track down the oil leak from hell and will likely be pulling the engine this upcoming weekend to find and fix that. But I really want to know if I should tear further into the engine to try and fix this issue while it's on a stand.. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Ohh, and another note that might help, the PVC Valve sounds like a goddam BB bouncing around under the valve covers (there's plenty of vacuum lol and the noise goes away with time) and as far as I could tell, no signs of coolant anywhere int he crankcase (to rule out manifold/head gasket leaks... Car runs about 50 PSI at Idle (700 rpm) and once the block heats up (180 degrees or so) it drops down to 35-40 PSI. I haven't ran a compression test, I just put new plugs in it, the old ones looked about normal(fouling looked the same across the board)

Thanks for your help (anybody who responds) feel free to ask questions, I tried to throw in as much info as possible.

I received a ticket for driving w/revoked registration (cancelled insurance), Is this a surchargeable event. (i.e. do i get points on my insurance causing my premiums to go up? and if so, how many points?)

I have a 1984 Chevy Camaro with a 350 in it. Theres a bad knocking noise coming from the engine compartment and I'm assuming at this point its a rod knock, I have yet to verify but I have already dealt with valve tick w/this engine so the tone is completely different. So anyways I've been looking for a motor to replace this one, and I'd prefer to put another 350 in it with the bolt on mods I've got. I've only checked one place for a carbed or tbi engine and they didn't have any, They do however have several low mileage efi 350's. Now my question, How difficult is it to convert from EFI to Carburettor? Can I use my carb/intake manifold/distributor from the old engine? I am aware that there may or may not be a port on the block for a mechanical fuel pump whereas my engine now has a mechanical pump, regardless I am prepared to purchase a new electric pump. Will I have to keep the serpentine setup or can I swap to a v-belt? Any other info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

A few months ago I purchased a 1984 Chevy Camaro Z28 5 speed, the previous owner put a 4 bolt main 350 in it from a 1983 Chevy Suburban. Immediately after purchasing the car I replaced the Mallory Distributor Cap and Rotor With an MSD one as well as Replacing the coil, plugs and wires, they were all burnt up and needed replacing. I gave It an oil change 10w30 and a new filter. I also replaced the Carburettor with a Holly, I believe 600 CFM but I could be wrong. The car had and oil leak, took about a quart a week, I figured it was a mixture between the intake manifold gasket/valve cover gaskets/oil pan(just about all the seals I figured would need replacing) Up until a few evenings ago the car ran great, had all sorts of power but had a problem with overheating which I can't seem to figure out.

A few evenings ago I brought it to a fairly deserted highway and ran it through the gears up to about 5000 rpm except for fifth up till i was going 120, then i decelerated, the car was running just before the red warning lines on the temp gauge. I decided to pull into a parking lot and let the car cool down. I noticed a ticking noise in the parking lot, I killed the car and checked the oil level and was at the add label, after letting the car set a little the ticking seemed to die down some. I drove to a local gas station and filled the car with a quart of oil, this brought my oil level up to the full line. I figured the sound i was hearing was valve ticking, so i removed the valve covers went through each cylinder found tdc(plugged the plug hole w/my finger till air was blown out) I then adjusted the valves by taking a .015 feeler gauge tightened the rocker arms down out it removed the feeler gauge and then tightened it 3/4 of a turn. The ticking went away. I filled all the fluids and drove about 20 miles, car was running excellent. I then took a trip to the local auto-zone to pick up a new taillight bulb and when i left i ran it through the first three gears, at the top of third their was a loud pop/hiss noise as if i lost pressure, the noise was similar to the sound you hear using my method to finding TDC(my oil pressure gauge does not work). There was then a sudden decrease in power across the RPM range, but particularly noticeable at low RPM where the car jerks, and at about 2500 rpm the car feels like the engine is not balanced. The car wants to stall after any heavy acceleration. The car does however in neutral blow out some white smoke. Haven't checked the coolant for oil or vice versa.

What could cause this? My thoughts are...

Bad valve seals

Blown head gasket

Blown Piston ring(s)

Bad plug(they are all new, but possibly one isn't firing?) I did check to make sure all of my plug boots were connected to their terminals

Bad cam

any thoughts? Thank you.

IQ test score are normally distributed with a mean of 100 and a standard deviation of 15. What IQ score puts you in the top 10% of the IQ scores.

At a local hospital, new borne babies are routinely given antibiotics to prevent postnatal infection. However, the antibiotics are known to give a minor skin rash to 36% of the babies. One hundred and fifty (150) newborns have been given the antibiotics.

A) What is the expected number (u) of babies to get the rash

B) What is the standard deviation?