CitationOne

I am repainting my truck with acrylic paint, I have taken the truck to bare metal entirely and primed it as directed. I put on my first coat of paint on my hood *which was removed from the truck* I noticed I had tiger stripes and the paint gun had run out super fast. I did not have the paint flow valve adjusted correctly. My question is this... I have heard you need to sand the clear coat off of urethane paint in order to do any other painting, with my paint being the acrylic enamel *which has the clear coat already mixed into it* do I need to completely resand the hood to bare metal to fix it or can I rough up the surface and do another coat thats more even. Thank you for any responses

This is a shot in the dark but I remember seeing a movie along time ago where this girl who was letting her life go to crap, and her parents send her to this martial arts guy who tries to straighten her out. I dont remember much about the movie but one part that sticks out in my head is he gives her a bowl of rice and tells her to eat with a pair of chopsticks, shes starving and cant do it so she digs in with her hands and he takes the bowl and throws it on the floor and says something like, if you want to eat like an animal.. eat off the floor or something. The next day she winds up forcing herself to eat with the chopsticks. I cant remember the title to this movie and its been on my mind for the past couple days. Any ideas? 10 points to whoever gets it or at least points in the right direction. Thank you

Hello,

I have an 84 Chevy Citation X-11 with a modified 3800 engine out of a 92 buick regal dropped into it. That hasnt anything to do with my problem but the alternator for that engine has a 105amp alternator on it which my sound system has killed 2 of them so far. I took the alternator to our local shop and he said he could rebuild it for $80 but it wouldnt do any good since it would die again fast and that its not possible to rewind/respool or whatever they do to up the amperage output. Im not sure I believe that since Ive heard of many people doing this but What are my options if I cant upgrade the alternator? My radio consists of 1 rockford 800A2 amp with birthsheet saying 1172rms watts, 1 jensen 600watt amp, subs are 2 x 1200peak/600rms watt dvc 4ohm 12" pyramid imperials and some pioneer 6x9's and pioneer 6in front speakers. If I put the radio up my voltage drops dramatically and my alternator pays the price. 2 Alternators in 4 months. I was told Im over drawing about 60amps or something and to get rid of my system which Im not to keen on doing. Any ideas? Thank you

PS:Could a weak ground cause this kind of issue? I know I need to add a ground from the battery to chasis but other than that the grounds are ok

I have a weird problem that hopefully someone can help me with. I have a FujiFilm A805 that I had to recently repair, well everything went fine except it read my SD card wrong and wouldnt give back card space after deleting pictures. My aunt has an Olympus FE-310 camera and I knew her XD card worked fine so I wanted to see if putting her memory card in my A805 camera could confirm if my SD card was bad or not. I put her XD card in mine since mine can take both style cards and mine read it perfectly. I was all smiles now that I knew my camera wasnt shot. I put her XD card back in her camera and now as soon as hers turns on it says Mem. Card Full.. but if you go to options it shows

"119 photos left to be taken" I cant figure this out, It was working fine before I tried it in mine. Any ideas please? It will be GREATLY appreciated.

PS: I already tried to reset her camera and shes got 600+ irreplaceable pictures on her card already so I cant try to format it.

Hello,

I have a weird problem with my digital camera and cant seem to find a solution online. Ill tell the history of the cam before the problem to give a better idea of the situation. About a year ago my nephew wanted to try out my FujiFilm A805 digital cam, I didnt think to big a deal of it but he wound up dropping it right on the lens and broke it, the lens was tilted and wouldnt move in or out and you could hear pieces rattling around. A few days ago a friend of mine says he has a FujiFilm A800 but the LCD screen is broken. After some online reading I find out both cameras are identical in every way except the A805 is the bundle pack where as the A800 is the stand alone camera. So after talking to him I got the cam off him and decided to put my LCD screen on his camera.. this worked out great, everything worked. I put in my SD card and noticed that with it set on 2mb picture that I only had 195pics on a 1 gig card? Ok.. maybe its the difference between the 2 cams or something. So snapped a few pics and got down to 180 pics.. then erased them.. it still showed 180 after erasing 15 pics. I decided to run it out to 0 pics to just see what would happen, it said I was full even after erasing ALL the pics it wouldnt let me take any. I opened the cam again and noticed a small burn mark on his board, No biggy Ill just swap boards as well so the only thing that id technically be using on his is the lens and front case now. I get it all back together and now Im showing 980pics available but still taking a pic and erasing doesnt show the space come back. If I remove the SD card, the cameras internal memory functions perfectly, space comes back after deleting something. Also.. when I go to change picture size format there is no difference in how many pictures relate to the size.. by that I mean, 8mb, 4mb, 2mb ect all show the same exact number for how many pics can be taken and I know for a fact that is wrong. So my question is.. can an SD card go bad in this manner? Like it lets you take pics but dont give the space back after deleting.

I can still pull pics from the card onto the pc but the space is never recovered. Any ideas on this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Hello,

I have a Dell E521 *I know.. not exactly top of the line lol* but I ordered the pc with 2gigs of ram. I recently purchased 2 more 1 gig sticks to bring me up to 4 gig. However windows is only reading 3.25gb. I know the 32bit OS's have a cap but I heard the cap works with your vid card.. my vid card is a 256mb so shouldnt I be seeing 3.75gig installed or there abouts? I am mixing memory tho which Im not sure if it would matter but everyone tells me mixing memory is ok because the higher memory will just adjust to the lower speed which I was fine with but this guy I was talking to said mixing memory on a dell system is one the worst things you could do so I just left my new sticks in it which are now reading at 800mhz instead of the 533mhz.

The sticks I have are

(2) 1 gig from dell which was kingston ddr2 4700 533mhz 1026mb

(2) 1 gig crucial ballistix ddr2 pc2 8500 1066mhz 1026mb

For now I just have the crucials in there because I didnt want to cause damage.. can anyone fill me in if the mixing memory was the reason for the 3.25 instead of seeing around 3.75? Im assuming the crucial memory is better than the kingston dell sent with the pc *dont know a great amount about this stuff yet* Thanks for any answers

Hello,

Ive been wanting to upgrade my pc for a while now and was going to do only the video card and power supply for now and eventually do the memory since I have 2gigs installed now on Windows Vista 32bit. My friend sent me this program that scans and displays your systems specs.. Turns out the memory dell gave with the system will max out at 266mhz.. thats horrible, I didnt even know sticks went down that far to be honest, Anyway while browsing around I found this http://www.ecost.com/detail.aspx?edp=37841971&sour...

which is 2x 2gig stick pc2-6400 800mhz. I wasnt sure if my system would support it so I went to dell and put in my service tag then clicked upgrade my pc and got this http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/products/Memory...

which is pc2-6400 800mhz 1 gig stick.. the sticks currently in my pc say pc4200..so I am wondering if anyone can give me a positive yes or no as to whether the 2 gig sticks will work in my system? I know vista will only read like 3.5gigs of it but my system has really seemed to be lacking in gaming which is what I do for 90% of my pc time.

Thank you for any help regarding this

Hello,

I have to upgrade my power supply since the new graphics card I want says I need A. minimal of 450watt and B. a 6pin pci connector.. My system has neither and my current power supply is only 305watt. I have been browsing around but there are so many different ones and many different pice ranges that I am completely confused as to what I would actually need. Im not sure if this could help with what Id need but I have a Dell E521 with specs to follow

AMD Althon64 X2 5000+ 2.60ghz

2 gigs ddr2 533mhz

2 optical drives SATA

250gig hard drive

The system has no molex connections I know that. I was wondering if either this

http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/products/Power/...

or this

http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/products/Power/...

would work for what Id need? I really am not an expert with this stuff and we have no local pc repair shops to go to in which to ask. Any help that could either help me figure out what Id need or give me an idea on either of the above power supplies would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

I have my choice between an Nvidia 9600gt 512mb or an ATI HD 3870 512mb.. Which of these would be better for gaming? From the clock speeds and memory type/speed the 3870 would appear the better choice. Tho Ive heard the nvidia card would produce smoother edges and more polished look overall.. so I am not sure which would be the better choice in terms of gaming. And please dont say "get a 8800gt" My budget allows for one of the 2 I asked about. Thank you

Hello I am ready to upgrade my video card.. I currently have an ATI Radeon X1300Pro 256mb and it plays games alright but most require less than medium settings to be playable. I am thinking about upgrading to the Nvidia 9500gt 1gig vid card, 9600gt 512mb or something similarly priced, *if any suggestions* Would the 9500gt be better than the X1300Pro I currently have? If so.. by roughly how much? I prefer ATI cards but from what I am seeing Nvidia seems to be the more logical choice My current system specs are as follows

Dell E521

Windows Vista SP1

AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual Core processor 5000+ 2.60ghz

2 gigs ddr2 533mhz memory

ATI Radeon X1300Pro 256mb

250 gig hard drive

Im not sure about the power supply

Any help regarding this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Hello,

I have a rockford 800a2 and its works nicely, my question regarding it tho is whenever I adjust the gains I lose 95% of my sound through the subs unless I have the turned completely up, I mean if I put on a bass song and I am shaking my rear view mirror with the hatch open and then adjust the gains even SLIGHTLY back *talking hairs of degrees* I instantly lose all bass and can only barely hear anything through the subs. I know its not good to run with the gains maxed out but at this point I have no choice. Would this be an internal problem with the amp? Ive tried everything I can think of and nothing changes the end result. Thank you

Hello,

I have 2 12" pyramid Imperials dvc 4ohm subs rated 1200/600 peak/rms wired @ 2ohm on each channel of the amp which is a rockford fosgate 800A2 rated 400rmsX2 tho the brithsheet says 1150watt rms. My problem is today it was rather cold outside and I turned on my radio.. I turned it up and it didnt sound right *lately its been sounding a little lackin in the bass department* well today after about 20 seconds with the volume around 15 I started smelling this nose curling smell which didnt smell like electronics when they burn. This was more of a hair/finger nail burning kind of smell. I smelled the vents on my sub enclosure and almost gagged at the potency of the smell. I pulled the one sub and smelled around it.. as soon as I hit the bottom hole on the magnet I got punched in the face with the smell again. The subs still operate fine *tho tend to start clipping at a much lower volume than before* but the smell is present as soon as the subs start comin to life. This may be my fault but my gains and crossover settings are maxxed out.. but I was told this was fine to do since my amp technically isnt matched for my subs rms anyway. Any thoughts as to what I may have done and or how to stop/prolong the possible death.

Thank you

Hello,

My Aunt has an 89 dodge caravan se with the 3.0 engine 3spd trans. Her problem is this. When the van is in drive and you hit the gas, it hesitates a few times then goes.. if you press the pedal harder once moving the engine actually revs down instead of up until you have it basically floored. Another symptom is when you do floor it *even from a stop* its revs up VERY slowly. I was originally thinking fuel pump/filter but those would exhibit problems more towards higher rpm and not lower like hers is doing. Also when you come to a stop it will usually stall.. and restarting it causes it to instantly stall unil you "start and floor the pedal" then gradually bring it back down.. then it will idle to a degree. This sounds like TPS to me but I figured Id see if anyone else has had these issues with a similar vehicle.

Problems already known with van: slightly leaking brake booster, old plug wires, old dis.cap and rotor, and pretty nice exhaust leak.

Hello, for a while now I have been thinking my amps have been acting up and sounding low and no matter what I tried I couldnt get it to sound right... Well I was messing with the radio today and think my problem might be associated with it and not the amps. The radio is a JVC KD-LH300 mp3 player. It works nice enough tho the face always has trouble staying on.. but the thing I noticed was when I went into the setup and hit the "Amp Output Gain Power HIGH/LOW" option, there is absolutely no difference in sound between changing it from low or high. My uncle has basically the same exact radio I do and when you change his from low to high there is a huge difference in bass and over all sound. And thats where my system is lacking.. bass is massively down and Ive tried opening amps and cleaning due to finding nothing wrong, Ive tried replacing the wiring in the car to better grade.. so now I am thinking the radio.. but not sure since I dont know if the HIGH/LOW option could go and still let the radio function for the most part normally? I know occasionally my speakers/subs will just go dead and all Ill get is this nasty crunchy/scratchy sound from them for about 5-10 secs then most times they come back to normal. Is my radio close to dead or could this just be a stupid fix? Any Ideas? Thanks

Hello, I was wondering if it was possible for something to blow or go bad inside of an amp but still allow things to function semi normally? You see I just picked up a rockford fosgate 800a2 amp and while it turns on and has plenty of sound it just seems to be weak for what it is and what Ive seen other 800a2's do. Take for example.. if I turn the punch bass up on the 800a2 and turn up the volume, it performs like my rockford fosgate 501s with the bass turned down. Its got me very confused because I already opened it and while I saw some connections that had a darker caramel color around there base where they connect to the board, nothing smells burnt or anything. But I definitely know this amp isnt performing to its best. So I was curious if something could go bad in an amp but still allow it to work but maybe just not to its full potential? Thank you for any answers

Hello, I have just bought a new used RF 800A2 amp that ever since I hooked it up just didnt seem to sound right to me, with the bass turned up it only seemed to match my old amps bass with that ones turned down.. I think I found the problem with the new amp, It kept bugging me that with the punch bass turned up that it would only match the 501s with the punch bass on the 501s turned down. So I experimented and turned the punch bass on the 800A2 all the way down and turned up the volume.. NO BASS AT ALL. Its like its reversed or something.. its like turning the bass only up to 0 instead of -12 if thats gives you an idea of what I mean. Since the warranty is up on the amp anyway I opened it and nothing looks burnt or messed up. Question tho if you know.. Is it even possible for the bass knob to operate backwards so to speak? As in turning down the bass actually turns the bass into the minus region instead of just returning to 0 like Ive always known them to? Any ideas on this? I read that RF doesnt service the 800A2 anymore so sending it in doesn't look like an option now, not that I have the money to send it in anyway. The punch bass on the amp looks identical to the oval remote punch bass knob I already have. Makes me wonder if I can take my old knob *which is still good* and solder on the 800A2 board. The remote bass version of the 800A2 takes the same bass knob I have for my 501s.. just the difference is the 800A2 I have has the knob built into the amp instead of on remote.

Thanks to any replies

Hello,

I have 2 pyramid imperial DVC 4ohm subwoofers and a rockford fosgate 800A2 amplifier.Subs are rated at 1200peak 600rms and the amp is rated at 400X2rms 2ohm or 800rmsX1 4ohm bridged. I was wondering what would be the best way to wire the subs? Would leaving each sub on its on channel and then wiring the subs to a 2 ohm load work good or would bridging the amp and wiring the subs together to a 4ohm load be better? I currently have them wired to the 2ohm load using both channels of the amp to each sub but some reason it seems to putting out less than my old amp would put out which was a RF 501s rated at 250rmsX2 2ohm or 500rmsX1 4ohm bridged. Its got me confused so any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

My Cousin has a 2001 Ford Focus with the 2.0 4cyl. The problem is that when you have the car idling in park or nuetral it shakes HORRIBLY, you can vibrate your arm on the fender or give your backside a nice massage from the seat. When you put the car in drive however it almost goes perfectly smooth. The engine is still visibly shaking a bit but you dont feel it through the whole car like it does in Park or Neutral. I am thinking a bad motor mount but when I have someone put their foot on the brake, put it in drive and give it gas the engine does seem to raise anymore than it is supposed to.. same for reverse. Any ideas?

I have an 89 dodge caravan, the blower motor stopped working... so I replaced the blower motor and it worked fine for a week then stopped again, then worked intermittently. Today I went out and tested power at the wires coming into the blower and get a 12v signal no matter where the switch is placed "low/medium/high" Isn't it supposed to fluctuate depending on where the switch is? Next I checked the resistor under the hood and it appears fine *no broken or badly rusted connections* but the weird thing is even with the resistor unplugged I am getting still getting a 12v signal to the blower motor??? I have one power wire on the connector to the resistor thats blue with a yellow stripe? Not sure on those colors since Im colorblind but thats what it looks like to me, thats also the same color as the wire going to the fan motor but both ends have power? I thought without the resistor installed there would be no power to the blower? Can someone lend some kind of idea please? Thank you

Hello, I have been looking around for possibly better subs. I currently have a set of 12" Pyramid Imperials DVC 4ohm subs rated 1200peak 600RMS.. I keep getting told that the rockford fosgate P3D412's would hit harder.. but they are rated 1000peak 500rms. Also since Im sorta newbie on how to pick subs.. I thought the higher the DB sensitivy the better? The rockford subs have 85db sensitivy where as my Imperials have 97. Right now I am putting about 250watt rms to each of my subs and they are in a sealed box *which I wanna get a slot ported soon for either subs I go with* Which of these subs would truly be better? Ive been using the pyramids for nearly 4 years with no problems but Ive never had an amp to push them to even half of there required power. So any suggestions on which sub would give me better bass would be appreciated. Also.. would there really be THAT much of a difference if I were to put a better amp that closer matched sub requirements? Thank you