Jack the Wong

I am new to cutting ABS pipes, and they will be used for my aquarium sump. So yes, water will be heavily involved.

If my ABS pipes are not cut perfectly straight, once they get glued to the fittings, will it be all fine still? Or do the cuts need to be absolutely perfect?

Thanks!

It's my first time trying to setup Christmas Lights outdoor.

The first thing that came to my mind was, wouldn't the wiring/extending/powercord connections get wet? Is that an issue?

what do people normally do to handle this? Or is it not an issue?

Thanks ahead!

Just primed my new drywalls, white.

I will paint white next. Is 1 coat enough?

What if I'm going off-white with a tint of pink or peach? Would 1 coat be enough?

I'm trying to do the walls and the flooring of my unfinished basement.

I've done the framing, I don't have the dry walls on yet.

The bottom plate are Non-treated studs, wrapped in a black plastic moisture barrier, sitting on top of a silk plate gasket (to block air), nailed to the concrete floor with a ramset hammer.

My concrete floor is uneven. The house is 4.5 years old btw. Some spots in the center are raised with slight crack. So the walls, where the framing is, is the lower level.

The area I'm trying to level is about 625 sqft. The drain, furnace, water supply are not part of this, they got isolated by my bottom plate.

So before I install the laminate, how can I level the floor?

The leveling compound would touch my bottom plate, is that ok?

A home depot guy told me to use old news paper to level the low area. Haven't heard of that.

What do you guys think?

Thanks! :)

Hello :)

I'm trying to install laminate in my basement, concrete floor. I heard that basement concrete = moisture.

The floor is "slightly" uneven too if that matters.

So what should I cover the concrete with first prior to installing laminates.

Please let me know the most cost-effective way. I live in Canada, Toronto btw.

Thanks! :)

I'm building the framing in my basement.

I learned online that I should use pressure treated wood for the bottom plate.

While at Home Depot, the guy said PT lumber is for exterior only. It'll be useless inside, cause it doesn't get the sun to dry it out, etc. It will still be soaked inside.

He recommends that I should use a Sill Plate Gasket between the lumber and the concrete.

I live in Toronto, Canada, with 22C Summer and -20C Winter.

What do you think about this?

Should I just use a pressure treated lumber?

Or should use a Sill Plate Gasket?

Or should I use other kind of vapor barrier?

And if I use a vapor barrier, should I still use a treated lumber for the bottom plate?

Thanks! :)

I'd like to frame my basement.

I've decided to use screws, because I do not have the extra budget to buy a nailer/compressor.

#1

My first question is, what kind of Screws should I use? I don't see any "Framing Screws" at home depot. The young staff told me to just use wood screws.

I also see drywall and decks screws.

Are wood screws sufficient?

#2

And what length should I use? I know that it'd be 3.5" if it were framing nails. Would 3.5" screws be overkill? Would 3" or 2.5" be fine?

#3

Lastly, if I were to screw bottom plate to concrete, how far down the concrete should i go?

Thanks! :)

Hello,

I'd like to buy a Mitre Saw just to cut 2x4 studs.

I have Rona and HomeDepot nearby. And i'm wondering, can I just buy the cheapest ones?

http://rona.ca/shop/~saw-8-14-in.-compound-mitre-s...

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/10-in-compound-mit...

Would any of these do the job?

would 8" do?

Thanks! :)

1. Does Fiesta or other week killer like weed-b gone, kill the root of the weeds?

2. Without having to actually pull out the root manually like I do all the time, would a healthily fertilized lawn have its grass eventaully take over all the weeds?

Cause you know how forests are only being taken care of by the nature. They are not that weedy compared to home garden.

I have a 30 gallon, and i'm trying to get it planted.

It has 2x24" t8 fixture, 20watt 6700 and 17watt 5000. DIY Co2 just in place.

It's about 1.2 wpg now.

#1. How can i get more light without purchasing a new fixture or spending too much?

Possibly get it to 2 wpg+.

#2. If I gave 12 hours of light/day, can I do 6 in the morning and 6 from the evening? Since I want to see my aquarium at night anyway. Will this be equivalent to the continuous 12 hours of light?

Thanks! :)

Can somebody let me know what this is?

http://img847.imageshack.us/i/freshwaterinsect.jpg...

They are normally buried under the gravel when light's on.

They are fast moving. They look like mini shrimp, yet look like worm. They are transparent grey. I'm starting to have more and more of these, and they are obvious when i siphon the gravel.

In the picture, it looks like a saltwater tank, because I moved few of them to it, to see if they can become food for my marine fish. They seem to thrive in saltwater, at least for more than an hour. My nemos spit them back out.

In the original tank where these worms are generated, they are live plants, guppies, assassin snails.

Let me know :) Thanks !:)

I hope it's not Gâteau Fin, it sounds bad.

This is not something a typical translation app can help.

Thanks! :)

Hi there,

I'm sure a lot of you must be culturing pods. Now I'm talking about Copepods or Tigger Pods that you try to breed in a seperate tank, not in your DT or in your sump.

I've done a lot of research on how to do this. My wonder is, how come the culturing tank does not need to be cycled? I understand that a filter can't be used anyway, but it can have live rocks.

So what happens if some phytoplankton or pods die? Or do they just don't create ammonia/nitrite at all? But some feed the pods crumbled flakes. Also, they made it sound like you almost never have to take care of the water quality. Just pour in more phyto once the green is fading.

Have you had success culturing pods in a seperate tank for years?

If so, can you please let me know what you do to it daily or any frequency?

Thanks! :)

http://www.fishdoctor.us/sitebuildercontent/sitebu...

Thanks!

And does anyone own this? Please tell me about it.

I got an Audi A4 2010 a while ago. I remember that he mentioned to not use Clay Bar on Audi's.

For the reason being that, their European cars don't need such thing.

How true is that? Anyone has any insight on this?

Thanks! :)

I'm moving from 30 to 50 gallon.

Saltwater, Fish-only with live rocks. Aragonite live sand.

2 nemos, 1 royal gramma, 1 yellow-tail blue damsel, 1 pistol shrimp + yellow watchman goby.

I'm trying to reuse most of the water and SAND during the transfer. On top of that, i have extra many pounds of cured LR ready for this transition. (I cured them myself for weeks in an extra tank)

In my new 50, there's already some old tank water (not enough yet), cured live rocks, and new Aragonite live sand (not enough yet, just 1-2 cm)

How can I transfer my old tank to my new tank without creating a sandstorm? (if i want to re-use the old sand bed)

Will fish be very stressed in a sandstorm?

I want to avoid using an extra temporary tank, just to avoid an extra transfer/stress. And even if I do, it might take a day or more to settle the sand, and it will suck to cramp them all in the small temporary tank for a long period.

Please give me your advise, it's my first time doing a salt-water tank transfer.

Freshwater was so much easier.

I have a 30 gallon FOWLR,

There's 1 watchman goby, a small pair of clownfish, 1 royal gramma, 3 hermit crabs, and 2 cleaner shrimp.

Would adding a pistol shrimp cause any threat to these guys?

That's because I know pistol shrimp can do Sonic Boom, and things in close distance will get hurt really bad. Would this Pistol Shrimp kill my cleaner shrimp? or other fish?

I'd like to hear from owners of Pistol Shrimps

Thanks! :)

At my company, we use SQL Reporting Services (2005/2008) to create our reports.

Our software are mostly composed of .Net and Java programming.

The reports normally contain dynamic tables, graphs, and all that you can think of.

We have done everything that we can such as massive denormalization in order to speed up database calls. Now 90% of the process time reside in rendering. What can we do about speeding up the rendering?

We're at over 3 seconds per report, and we're hoping to achieve 10 reports per second instead. It'll be used for banks, so it can't take days to generate just a million. The final forms need to be in PDF format. They have awesome printers that can print that much in hours.

Please let us know what realistic alternatives we have here.

We can change database, way of programming and even hardware.

We need to achieve:

- 10 reports per second

- Average reports contain 10-20 pages, with dynamic tables and graphs.

- PDF as final form (other alternatives? pictures? with table formatting and graphs in mind)

As a side, what about, some other methods that directly brings report generation to printers?

Your help is greatly appreciated! :)

Can ammonia Kill marine ich?

Have you ever tried that?

They are new in my QT.

I know Hypo will alter the PH, so i need to make sure my baking soda buffer is well enough.

I know that Formalin + low PH is poison, so I will double confirm that my baking soda buffer is perfect.

But do you think hyposalinity and Formalin baths together is safe? (compared to just Formalin).

For Formalin treatment, i'm doing high concentrated baths (1ml per gallon), 45-60 minutes every other day, for 5 treatments.

For Hypo, i will keep it at 1.009 specific gravity.

The water i use for Formalin treatment will be from my same QT water to keep water parameter consistent, + a heater and air line.

Is there anything wrong with Hypo + Salinity in my QT? Please let me know your true experience.

Thanks! :)