West

Hey where do you buy the big FOX racing window decals? I had one on my Jeep that I got off ebay and now it got wrecked by a tree limb that fell on my rear window during a big snow storm today. It didn't damage my window but somehow it managed to wreck my decal. I can't find them on ebay anymore. At least not the one I want. Can anyone help me? I've been on amazon and even the FOX website and can't find anything

Hey I know this is kind of a dumb question but I got an HP EliteBook 6930p that I want to upgrade a little bit. See mine has the Intel GMA which is a total piece of trash. I've been more impressed with a Radeon 3200. GMA's can hardly run Aero or play movies smoothly and the display quality on an external monitor leaves much to be desired. So what I'm doing is buying a motherboard that has ATI graphics instead and the corresponding heatsink. I discovered that there are different ATI boards though, one of which has 128mb GDDR3 and one that has 256mb GDDR3.

I'd like to know how much difference that extra 128mb is going to make. I'm hoping to run Skyrim on very low settings. Will that 128mb really improve gaming very much if at all? Also I'm running Windows 7 which will share some memory anyway. Is the 3450 even capable of utilizing 256mb? I know that the 256mb card is obviously the better choice just to be safe, but I found the 128mb board for $25 less and I'd like to keep that in my wallet if the 256mb version is not going to be much if any of an improvement. By the way, I did do some research on these two cards and from what I can tell the 256mb version might score about 300 points higher on 3dmark 06, does that mean the 256mb is not worth the extra cash? Or will that be a noticeable performance gain?

Just so you know, this is actually my secondary laptop. I use it when I need a smaller, very portable computer. My other one is an HP 8530p EliteBook that I customized with an 8530w screen and nVidia Quadro FX 770M.

Here's an easy question that will just take a moment of your time and get you some easy points. And I know everyone loves to express their opinion! I want to hear it too!

So, if you were looking for a new 10 inch or 12 inch subwoofer, what would you buy if it had to be $150 or under (not including the enclosure, amp, wires or anything like that) and you just wanted the most SPL / volume? I know you're all gonna wonder what amp this will be running on, but don't think about that. I don't care if I need to upgrade my amp, I just would like to know which sub you think would be the loudest when given it's RMS wattage whether that be 300 watts, 1000 watts or any other wattage.

So again, if you were looking for a new 10 inch or 12 inch subwoofer for $150 or less and were only concerned about SPL, what would you buy?

Thanks!

Hey does anybody know anything about the new NVX Audio NSW sub? There aren't many reviews yet. I'm looking for a new sub and I like how the NSW looks. It's also got fairly decent power handling, a rubber surround and a polypropylene cone, so it looks and sounds like it's made to last. It's pretty inexpensive too ($80 for the 12 inch on sonic).

I've seen a few youtube videos of these but they're all from one guy and he doesn't say anything about how loud it gets or show how much it rattles a car.

So can anyone tell me how it sounds? Would you get one over a Kicker CVR? Is the NSW pretty loud? Does it cause any rattling (I want rattle cause that means SPL)? What other sub would you compare it to in terms of SPL and sound quality?

So yeah if you know anything about these that would be great, even if you can only tell me they sound good, handle a decent amount of power, get pretty loud and you would recommend them just please somebody give me some input on these.

Thank you!

Hey everyone I was wondering if anybody had any input about which of the following subs I should get (I will only be buying one 12" for the back of a small SUV):

1. Alpine Type S ( SWS-12D4 )

2. Kicker CVR ( 10CVR124 )

3. NVX Audio NSW ( NSW124 )

4. RE Audio SRX ( SRX-12D4 )

All of those are 12 inch subs and dual 4 ohm. I have around 500 watts RMS at 2 ohm mono (if a 300 watt RMS sub is louder than a 500 watt RMS sub though, I will obviously just turn it down so I can use the 300 watt RMS sub). I'm going for the highest volume. As in I will sacrifice some sound quality to have even 3 db over one of the other subs. If you could rank the subs according to volume that would be awesome (I need the loudest one that will shake the car the most), but please at least tell me which would be loudest. If any of the subs will not work well on 500 watts let me know, and if one of them has exceedingly bad sound quality (like worse than Sony Xplod subs) then it would be great to know that. I listen mostly to metal and dubstep, but occasionally some hip hop and pop. If the loudest sub is not suited for that kind of music then in that case I guess I should not buy that one.

Also if you happen to know that the 07CVR124 is better than the 10CVR124 for some reason then please let me know and please explain why.

If you have any better suggestions that would be great too, but please keep it under $150 and please still let me know any input you have on the above options. And oh yeah I will only be getting one 12" sub. At least for the time being cause I'm trying to save space so I'd like to get just one nice 12".

I have some experience in car audio, but not enough to know the answers to these questions. And please don't say check out youtube cause I've done that and while it does help some it has only narrowed down the options I could find to the above and doesn't answer everything.

Sorry for so many questions and thanks for the help, I really appreciate it!

Hey I got a 1000 watt Sony Xplod XM-GTX1852. Yeah I know a lot of people hate Sony but lets not get into that here. Suffice it to say that I personally really like this amp. Anyway, I've had several systems, 2 of which were cheap subs that got loud but didn't last. The others sounded great but were a little too much for this amp and wouldn't go loud enough for my tastes. With all the subs that are out there today it's taking me forever to figure out what sub or subs I should get now. I want a setup that's around 500-700 watt RMS. 10's or 12's doesn't matter to me I just need something that gets loud and can shake my Jeep a little. If possible I would really like to get only one sub cause it's nice to save space and all, but I would be ok with getting two. As far as budget goes, yeah I'm kinda strapped at the moment so I'm hoping to spend no more than like 100 on the subs themselves. Just wondering if anybody has some suggestions?

Thanks

Hello I currently have a Samsung R375C that I use with the $30 Straight Talk plan. I like the plan, it's more than I even need and I get decent coverage. However I absolutely HATE the stupid phone. Not only am I fed up with the blackberry style keyboard, but the phone will only send 160 character texts. It won't just let you write as much as you want and make it go into several texts, why any idiot would design a phone not capable of that I have no idea. So, I am trying to find a phone with a QWERTY keyboard (preferably not blackberry style) that will work with the $30 Straight Talk plan and let me type a text longer than 160 characters. I will even buy an older model that is no longer made if I have to. Can you tell me what phones meet these requirements?

You know that band around the arm some guitarists use so their skin doesn't stick to the finish of the guitar? What exactly is that called and where can I buy one?

In this song Tuomas was reading a poem, that's all I remember for sure. Any fellow fans know which song I may be thinking of?

I just bought another one of those guitar stands that says it's not for nitro cellulose finished guitars. The guitar this stand is for is an Ibanez RG3EXFM1. I also have a Kona K1E in another of these stands, but the Kona has been in the stand for over a year with no damage to the finish. So I was wondering if anyone could tell me if either of these guitars have a nitro finish? The Ibanez is a $350 guitar and the Kona is $150. I only mention that because I was thinking maybe only expensive guitars have a nitro finish. I love both these guitars so I don't really want to wreck the finish. So if anyone can tell me if they think either of these guitars have a nitro finish that would be great. And yeah is nitro only used on expensive $1000 and up guitars?

Hi everyone! I was just wondering if someone might know why I'm paying for 1.5mb/s DSL (I'm out in the country and that's all we can get) and whenever I download anything I can only download at 150kb/s maximum? My service provider is AT&T (never getting AT&T internet again). When I use speedtest.net it says I'm getting 1.5mb/s, as does AT&T's test. I know a lot of websites throttle your downloads, but do all of them really throttle it down to that low of a speed? And it's really weird because if I download a torrent using uTorrent, I still max out at 150kb/s even though other users with faster internet have reported getting several mb/s from the same torrent. Online videos are certainly loading faster than that, because Netflix and YouTube actually work pretty good. I have checked the settings in my router but I don't see anything that looks wrong. Is it something AT&T is doing? Are there settings in my router, computer or internet browser that are not set correctly?

Any advice on what I should do?

What is the best way to make a free website? I have used Yola and Weebly but they're terrible, they really limit what you can do. I want a website that I can customize any way I want without using HTML or CSS. I like WebStarts but they only let you have 10mb of storage and 5 pages, and I like Google Sites but the URL is absolutely unacceptable. So what do I do? I really want to make my site unique and interesting but weebly and yola just limit my creativity and make my site look horrible.

Ok I have this old netbook that runs Windows ME and I need it to run Windows XP or it is useless, but unfortunately it needs a BIOS update to run XP correctly. I downloaded the BIOS update utility, but it's one of those garbage ones that not only needs to put the files onto a floppy drive, but also checks the PC in the process to make sure it's the right model BEFORE it writes the files to the floppy (otherwise I could use a different computer to write the files, then make a bootable CD that emulates a floppy). I don't have an external floppy drive and I don't want to buy one because it would never get used except for this. Now I did manage to use a program to extract the BIOS.ROM from the downloaded file, but now what do I do? I know I have to make a bootable DOS CD, but how do I make one that would update the BIOS?

Hey, I'm doing my first computer build. This computer however is not for me (unless I can't sell it at a good enough price to keep building and selling them). The problem I'm having is that even though I have a lot of computer knowledge and I know what I'm doing, I'm not a gamer, I'm a video editor, so I don't know what gamers want in custom built computers. I've looked at requirements for some games such as skyrim, and I had planned to build a computer that would play it at the extremely high settings, but the gamers I asked wouldn't pay over 350 for it. I have a budget, but please ignore it, I can get more money if I need to. I have all the parts except for the graphics card, but if some parts are not good enough I can buy different ones. What I want to know is this: If you wanted to buy a gaming computer, and you found an ad for one, what are the minimum requirements you would have for the components of this computer, and how much would you spend on it?

An example of the type of response I'm looking for is:

1. AMD Athlon II X4 or Intel i5 Quad

2. 4 GB DDR3 RAM

3. 500 GB SATA Hard Drive

4. USB 3.0

5. DVDRW

6. 600w PSU

7. ATI HD5770 or nVIDIA GTX260

$600

So basically all I want to know is what components would a gaming computer absolutely have to have for you to buy it, and how much would you be willing to pay? Please answer honestly, be sure your answer is actually an answer to my question and be to the point, and assume the computer is already built, that you have examined it and found it to be in good condition and that it was built well. By the way, I'm planning on selling them with no operating system, but I can put one on if I get a little more for it, however I will have tested the computer to make sure it doesn't crash during heavy gaming or anything (yes I'm going to get skyrim so I can test them out properly).

Hey, I'm doing my first computer build, and I want to know what you guys think it would be worth when it's completed. I'm going to try to sell it because I would enjoy building gaming computers, and if I could sell this one, then that is exactly what I'm going to do. Now I don't have tons of cash to put into this first build, so it's not using the latest and greatest parts but should still be respectable.

Here are the specs:

-600 Watt OCZ StealthXStream Power Supply

-MSI G41M-P26 Motherboard (4 USB 2.0, the case has 2 more on the front)

-Intel Core 2 Quad Q8200 2.33 GHz

-4 GB DDR3 RAM

-2 GB GDDR3 Sapphire ATI Radeon HD 4870 X2 (not two cards, it's just one card but it has two GPU's). It has 4 DVI outputs

-250 GB 7200RPM SATA Hard Drive

-SATA CD/CDRW/DVD/DVDRW Drive with LightScribe

It makes for a great budget build, I will only have about $400 into it.

Hey I just picked up an EVGA GeForce 7900 GTO. It sounds like it would be a great graphics card, here's a link to the specs: http://www.evga.com/products/pdf/512-P2-N573.pdf . Unfortunately the dumb thing seems to have very poor performance for how bulky it is. I can't get it to smoothly play Full 1080p HD, any reason why it shouldn't handle that? Granted I'm testing it on a PC with only 1gb of ram but this should use dedicated vram right? Is there some setting that I have to tweak? Forgive me if I can't find it, but nVidia's control panel is way more complex and disorganized than it should be. I'm so used to the nice ATI Catalyst Control Center. Anybody know if there's something that could need to be changed? Or is the card just lame? If it's the card I'll go buy an ATI Radeon HD 2600 Pro or XT.

Hey I was just wondering if anybody knows if the parts from a Dell Latitude ATG D630 that say ATG on them will work on a normal D630. For example if I bought the motherboard cover, would it just clip right on? Or if I bought the lid back, could I take my current lid apart and use that back?

Ok, I have 3 dell computers (a latitude D630 (3 years old), a Dimension E520 (3 years old) and a Dimension 2400 (6 years old)). I would like to know if the Windows 7 disc from Dell will work on any of them and not ask for a code (I would like it to work on the D630 AND Dimension E520). When I bought the Windows Vista disc from Dell, it said it was for installation on a Dell PC only. Supposedly, these OS discs from Dell do not ask for a code if installed on a Dell PC. But does it matter how old the Dell PC is because these computers all came out before Windows 7? I would find out myself by putting the Vista disc in the 2400 and seeing if it asks for a code, but that computer won't be working for another couple weeks. The E520 and D630 both easily meet the specs for Windows 7, so if I buy the Windows 7 disc from Dell will it work to install it on both of these PC's at the same time or will I need a code?

I just did my first Ubuntu install and everything went great, but when I log in to it, no dock shows up on the left. If you go to the official Ubuntu site or you google image search Ubuntu 10.10, many pictures show the standard application dock on the left, how do I get that to show up? Just the standard dock not anything special. I did some searching to find out how to make sure all drivers are installed, and it seems like all drivers, the video driver included, have been successfully installed. If I go to System>Administration>Additional Drivers, it searches for drivers and then comes up with a window that says "No proprietary drivers are in use on this system." Is that not good? If I go to terminal and type "lsmod" or possibly "lshw" i see a video driver listed. Please help I really want that nice looking dock to show up

Ok there's probably a really simple answer to this problem but I can't find it. I work on computers a lot but I'm still learning. This has happened with two Western Digital Caviar drives, the circumstances are different but they both were at one time the only hard drive in a PC, then formatted to be used as a slave hard drive, and then I made them master hard drives again. The PC's will no longer boot to these hard drives, or even reinstall windows for that matter. Yes I moved the jumpers to the "Master" position on both of them. I've tried each drive in different computers as well, and the BIOS on one will recognize it but on the other it doesn't. On one computer, I even managed to get windows setup to format the hard drive, but the PC still will not boot to this drive. Don't ask how the drives were formatted when they were slave drives because I don't know for sure about one of them, one was NTFS, but this has happened with more than one OS. PLEASE HELP. If you can explain exactly what is wrong and how i fix it that would be great. Thanks so much for your help.