bradster1200

I m looking into buying my first gimbal. I ve pretty much decided which one in either category I would be buying. I ve only been into photography/videography for about a year. Here are relevant things I have:

Dji Phantom 3 Pro

Nikon D3200

3 lenses (2 kit, 105mm Macro)

Tripod

Galaxy S9

Adobe Suite (all apps)

I m wondering would it be better to exclusively use my Galaxy S9 and buy a phone gimbal? Or should I buy a DSLR gimbal so I can use the bigger camera? With the DSLR gimbal, I should be able to attach my Galaxy S9 with some adapters. Is that a better idea?

Reading about experiments done in the 1960's is what sparked this question.

I've read that back during the height of the Roman Empire, most roman leaders were either gay or bisexual. In fact, the one leader who was completely straight was thought to be an odd ball because of it.

I was just wondering if anyone had information on what events took place to change that collective opinion?

I'm assuming it has a lot to do with religion. I cant think of any major event that could be traced back to being gay/bisexual, like a disease outbreak or mass murdering committed by them.

I'm looking to have a custom 105mm artillery projectile made to be fitted into a used 105mm shell I have (from an AC-130 gunship). It will be used as a plaque for a co-worker. Any idea how much something like that should cost? Any suggestions on wood type/finish?

I know that the Phantom 3 camera does not come with manual yaw control. My question is, why? I know the legs would get in the way of the lens, but still. I know the camera has 3-axis movement, so why not make it an option. If they didn t want to add the switch the the controller, they could have added it into the DJI Pilot app. Is it possible that they will come out with an update that would allow for this movement? I would love to see the follow feature as an option. Anyone have some insight on the issue? Thanks.

I just bought a Asus G750JM notebook. It came with a 1TB (5400rpm) HDD. There is also an extra 2.5" bay. I want to buy and install a 256GB SSD. I would like to put the OS (Win 8.1 64bit) onto this new SSD. But in reading how to go about doing this, everybody says to do a fresh install of the OS onto the new drive, then format the old partition of the HDD. What can I do if I don't have access to the CD (or any .iso) of Windows 8.1 (because the PC shipped with the OS preinstalled)? Would Microsoft take my word by any chance, and send me a disk or maybe a code to download teh .iso file? Any solutions?

I've heard there can be problems with just copying the OS to the new drive.

I'm wondering what part of a grounded radio is actually grounded. I know the purpose of grounding is to ground for protection and to reflect the signal. I'm just wondering what part specifically is grounded. is it literally a line going to ground at the beginning of the antenna? Any information helps. I've already looked at what Wikipedia has to offer on the subject, it's not very helpful.

Say I was upgrading a small transmitter with an improperly sized antenna (also assuming the transmitters antenna was previously not grounded), and I need to replace the antenna. What part of the circuit or antenna would I ground?

Thank you for any information.

I've spent days on Google trying to figure out exactly which fuses I need to set on an ATtiny85 in order to put it (on any pin) in Fast PWM mode. Does anyone know what fuses need to be set? I must have been through the datasheet a million times trying to figure it out. I will actually be doing this on an ATtiny84, but I'm testing it out first on the less-expensive ATtiny85. I've been able to set the fuses for 8MHz internal clock, but that's only because of the 'online fuse calculators' floating around. I plan on setting the fuses with my USBtinyISP programmer, but I'm hopelessly lost. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I was wondering if there is any real difference between a "Crystal Clock Oscillator" and a "Crystal" other than the fact that the "Crystal" needs caps? The Crystal Clock Oscillator (that I have) is in a Half-Size DIP package, and the Crystal is in the standard HC-49/US package.

So other than not needing the extra caps, what advantage does the Half-Size DIP oscillator have? The cost is about 5x more if you buy the DIP.

Thanks for any information.

I need an IC or circuit that will allow me to input a PWM signal @ ~490Hz, and get an output @ ~5kHz. I need the duty cycle of the signal to remain virtually unaffected. I'm going to be driving an inductive load (not a motor) with a MOSFET, and I just need a higher frequency PWM signal than is currently available.

I've looked into using 'square wave signal generators' with comparators, but it didn't look like they would really do what I needed them to do. I've looked at using PLL's to multiply the frequency, but they also seemed a bit sketchy. Does anyone know of something that I could use?

To clarify, I need: ex. 80% duty cycle @ ~490Hz PWM ---> IC ---> 80% duty cycle @ ~5000Hz PWM

Yes, I'm using an Arduino. So I might just end up using the ~1 kHz signal from pin 5 or 6. I do not want to modify any of the ATmega328P's clock settings in order to modify the PWM signal already coming out of the Arduino.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

To help clarify the explanation below, there are three parts I will be describing. There's a "Controller / Monitor Circuit," a "Push-Pull Driver," and a(n) "Inductive load." Oh, and I use a lot of parenthesis; sorry in advance.

I'm building a circuit that monitors and controls a "push-pull" driver for an inductive load. The monitoring circuit will control the driver using PWM ( @ approx 500HZ ). I'm already using a Schottky diode* (acting as a Flyback diode) across the input to the driver to prevent back EMF from reaching the MOSFET (controlled by the monitoring circuit). I know the diode will conduct the reverse voltage spike and allow the energy to dissipate in it's own closed loop. But will driving the driver at only 500HZ cause the magnetic field (from the inductive load) to collapse 500 times a second? Or is 500HZ plenty fast to minimize the back EMF? Oh, and there's a(n) electrolytic capacitor (2200uF, 50V) at the input terminals of the driver. I need to know this because I need to choose the correct flyback diode for the job. If it's collapsing hundreds of times a second, then I'll need to find a diode with a much higher Repetitive Peak Forward Surge Current ( I(frm) ). The datasheet lists the non-repetitive surge current values under the condition of a 10ms pulse frequency, but @ 500HZ the pulse frequency would be 2ms.

I hope I was able to explain this properly. Any information is greatly appreciated.

* -This is the diode I currently have, and plan on using:

http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/C3D02060A.pdf

I've been looking to measure the surface temperature on a medium sized power inductor. The inductor may be handling current up to about 20A @ ~36VDC. I was wondering if the magnetic field it produces would affect the reading from an LM34DZ temperature sensor? Would the collapse of the magnetic field destroy the sensor, or maybe my microcontroller?

LM34 datasheet: http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM34.pdf

Thanks for any information.

I recently had Laproscopic surgery to repair an Ingurnial Hernia. The doctor prescribed Hydrocodone-Acetaminophen as a pain killer. I took the pain killer for 3 days, and then stopped (because I had no pain). It's been a little over 2 days since I've taken any of it, and I'm having some trouble breathing. I struggle to take a deep breathe, and I feel as if my breathing is labored. I also feel like something is in my throat when I lay down. I feel dizzy when I stand up, and I'm having trouble focusing my eyes. I'm wondering if these are possibly from drug withdrawal? I think I was dehydrated, but I'v been hydrating over the past 2 days. Could it be from anesthesia? (The surgery was 5 days ago)

Any thoughts?

I would like to know (in your opinion) what is the best book out there that teaches you how to write a program in "C" language? I would like to write a program meant for a PIC microcontroller.

I'm done very little programming, and the little programming I did was in Assembly.

I need to learn how to (in extreme detail):

- Use the Watch Dog timer

- Use the PWM function

- Use the ADC (I really need to know this one!)

- Store values into/onto EEPROM

I was hoping there was a book (or series) out there that could help me out. Thanks in advance for your answers.

I was wondering if a plain old Li-Ion cell phone battery has a built in charging circuit? So does the 5V from a cell phone charger just go straight to the battery (which controls charging internally) or does the 5V go through a charging circuit first, then go into the battery.

Could I simply apply 5V to the Li-Ion battery and have it charge safely? Or do I need to make a Li-Ion battery charger circuit? Remember, this is for a cell phone battery, not for a rechargeable AA or AAA.

Thanks for any information.

I am a 20 year old male with no criminal background, and I already own a gun (not a pistol). I was wondering if (in Minnesota) I can take the Permit to Carry class now, but not receive the actual certification until I'm 21?

I know in Minnesota, the state allows children (under 12) to take the Firearms Safety class required to go hunting. But they do not receive their actual certification until they are 12.

So could I take the class now, complete it, then receive my actual permit upon turning 21?

Thanks for any information.

I've recently built a ZVS driver to use with a couple of my flybacks. But when I use it on a flyback with a 5+5 winding setup, it only draws about 5 amps. When I reduce the windings to 2+2, I still only get about 5.5-6 amps. Any idea why?

I just had a full (4 wheel) alignment from Tires Plus. In the report I received, it said I had a blown strut (rear passenger). I also need to get some new tires put on; at least in the back. I was wondering if I would need to (buy) another alignment if I had them replace the shocks and/or the tires? Would the alignment I got just a month ago still be adequate? Does Tires Plus automatically do an alignment (at least the rear) when they replace tires or struts?

Oh, and I've got a 1994 Chevrolet Cavalier Z24. So it has a solid rear axle (if that matters).

I've got a sunroof on my 1994 Chevrolet Cavalier Z24. The previous owner had it sealed shut (with clear caulk), he said the sunroof was leaking because it had a bad seal. I already checked all of the drains from the sunroof, so I think he's right about why it was leaking.

I called a Chevy dealership near my house, and they said a new seal (from the GM warehouse) would be just under $60. Couldn't I just find something close to what it should be (like from Home Depot or Auto Zone) and get it a lot cheaper by cutting it to length myself? Or is there something special about a sunroof seal? Thanks!

I can't seem to find any performance chips online for the 3.1L V6 in my 1994 Chevrolet Cavalier Z24. I've been looking for a while, and I can only find performance chips for the 2.2L I4. Any idea where I can get one for my car? Thanks!

I recent;y upgraded my car from a 1992 Toyota Corolla (base) to a 1994 Chevrolet Cavalier Z24 (V6). I noticed something the other day while driving over some railroad tracks. Well, the tracks are in the middle of a gentle, right hand turn (most people drive about 35 mph through the turn). In the Toyota, I was able to easily go through the turn (and over the tracks) at about 50 mph. I would simply turn slightly more to the right than I needed to (to compensate for the 'jumping' that would happen when going over the tracks). I never felt that I was in any danger of losing control. But the other day when I drove the Z24 over the tracks (at about 50), I almost spun out when I had to compensate for the back end swinging wide. I don't know why this would happen.

The wheels have plenty of tread, it was dry out, I just had everything aligned; I don't get it. The back end sometimes feels loose when I make any kind of quick turn or lane change. The rear end also swings out a little whenever I go over any kind of bump on the highway. Could this be worn out / blown (rear) struts? Or is this just how the suspension acts on this car?

Thanks for you answers!