BustedFlush

Years ago someone ran into my car, and I had to have a body panel replaced. On that panel, the clear coat is peeling off in lots of small, and some large, patches.

The shop that did the work is halfway across the country, and I don't remember if they even had a warranty on their work, and it's been at least 5 years.

Is this something Maaco could fix, and if so, what would they do? Remove the remaining clear coat and re-apply, or sand off everything down to a base and repaint? It's the rear panel of a 2 door Civic if that matters. Any neighborhood idea of what something like this would cost? The car is pretty old, but it runs great and I plan to keep it awhile.

I have an old 1979 Honda CB750. I've had it checked out, and my mechanic says for sure the carbs need to be rejetted, as some previous owner replaced the air filter box with pod style filters, and evidently this requires different jets. There may possibly be other carb issues too, but overall I think they are pretty clean.

The bike runs all day long if I don't push it hard. 50 MPH is no problem. If I go much faster though, like 60ish, then things start to go downhill. It will go fine for 5 or 6 minutes, and then it seems like it gradually loses power, I'll get a bit of small backfire, and then things just go all to pieces. I try to give it throttle and it just chokes. Now I'm going 40, 35, 20... I pull over to the side of the road and at that point the engine will have died. This has happened twice. Each time I have waited about 10 minutes, disconnected the fuel line at the filter just to make sure I didn't have a trapped bubble or something, and then it runs fine, like nothing was wrong.

What could this be? I'll probably have the carbs worked on this month anyway, and maybe that will improve things, but I'm very curious as to what is causing the issue.

This one goes way back, probably close to 15 years or more; back when BW3 was still actually named BW3 and Wednesdays were 20 cent wing nights.

There was a menu item; the best I can describe it would be to take an egg roll wrapper, fill it with cheese and your choice of either diced pepperoni or mushrooms, roll it up and then deep fry it.

I've been trying to think of what they were called. For a minute I was thinking they were Buffalitos, but that is not correct. Buffalitos were more like soft flour chicken tacos with wing sauce.

Anyone else remember them?

Most recipes for carne asada spend most of the time talking about the marinade, and very little on the cooking process.

I have thinly sliced beef, and I would ideally like the meat to have some crust, but not be completely dry.

In the past when I have tried to use high heat in cast iron, the meat seemed to just lose all moisture as soon as it hit that heat, and tbe meat just sat boiling away in its own juices not browning at all. When the liquid cooked away it did brown, but it was completely dry.

I would love to cook it over coals but only have a propane grill. I have tried it too with slightly better results on the grill, but I'm open to suggestions at this point.

Despite being a mechanical novice, I purchased a 1976 Honda CB750. She looked fairly well maintained, but there was a lot of grit and grime on the outside of the carbs, and I had no idea when they had last been cleaned. I had some trouble with the way it was idling; stalling if the idle was set below 2K, and several people suggested that gunked carbs could be the issue.

So I did a lot of research, asked a lot of questions, and finally figured out how to remove the carbs. I have never touched a carburetor before, much less cleaned one, so this was a huge step for me.

I cleaned off a lot of the grime from the outside of the unit.

Then I popped off the bowls. Low and behold, they look totally clean. The jets look like the "after" pictures I see on some web sites that detail the takedown process. There's no varnish. No blockages to be seen (with the naked eye at least).

Should I thank my lucky stars and put them back on, so should I keep on going and fully disassemble them?

Please don't answer unless you have experience with this bike. I have Googled this, and the common answer says to remove the seat, and then remove the 'bolt at the back of the tank.'

Maybe that works for the K version, I dunno, but the seat is off and there is no bolt on the F Super Sport that I can see. I've got the hex bolts that keep on the battery box and tool compartment. Using a flashlight looking up under the tank I see some rubber pieces, but nothing resembling a bolt.

Any help greatly appreciated. I'd like to clean the carbs, but I can't get to them with the tank on.

I'm not really a gearhead, but I want to be. I bought a 35 year old motorcycle, so I expect there will be times like this.

I'm trying to figure out what is wrong with my 1976 Honda CB750. I just got it not long ago, and the crazy part is that I don't even know how to ride a motorcycle. I am taking a class later this month, but in the meantime, the bike is just in my garage.

I've been practicing with the clutch, getting a feel for finding neutral, but not going any further than the end of my street. (Don't have it registered or tags on it yet either)

Lately it starts, both with the electric start and kickstart, but after idling it stalls. If I goose the throttle to around 2K rpm it will keep going, but as soon as I let up it stalls. I put a new battery in in today. It started, ran a little longer than it did with the old battery, but once again just stopped.

I've heard that short runs are hard on the battery, but this seems extreme. Is there any test I can do to see if the alternator is bad - or is that the problem, now that the battery is new and the problem still exists?

Every day there's the same question; 'I'm 16, how much X will get me drunk?'

Why do you want to get drunk? Be honest. Is it about defeating the teenage sense of isolation? Is it about peer pressure? Simple rebellion? I'm very curious.

I'm a bit of an idiot, so I just purchased a 1979 Honda CB750 motorcycle. I've never had a motorcycle before, and I'm really not a huge gear head. I know the basics of internal combustion engines, but I'm not sure how to get the carburetors off the bike. (Just trying to set the bar as to my level of expertise)

I'm not too afraid to get my fingers dirty, but I don't have a manual for it yet if there even is one still printed.

The thing leaks gasoline. It's really stinking up the garage. At least I think it is gasoline; it's colorless and smells like gasoline. The drip ends up hitting the floor right above the rear wheel axle, but it is running to there from the frame, it doesn't look like the source.

There is a knob under the seat you can use to shut the gas off. Turning the gas off did not seem to have any impact, at least over the course of overnight. I got a little flashlight and tried to see where it was coming from, but I can't tell. It looks like there is a little nub, a sort of nipple, under the engine - tiny little thing. It had a drop on it, but that doesn't mean that's where is came from.

So the question: it's a 30+ year old bike. Would I be crazy NOT to expect it to drip something? Is that just what naturally aspirated motorcycles of this vintage do? Or is this something I should check out right away? Any ideas for tracking down the source?

I am building my first PC in what's probably close to a decade. I see the technology of connecting the little LED/switch headers from the case to the motherboard has not progressed at all in this time.

Neither the case nor the motherboard manual is any use; I have too few pins for the jumpers, and can't figure polarity at all.

The jumper is configured thusly:

No pin - x o - reserved

pwr sw - o o + reset switch

pwr sw + o o - reset switch

pwr led - o o - HDD led

pwr led + o o + HDD led

Two problems - I the case manual doesn't say which color is + and which is -. There's usually a color and a white. Is the white always -? The Power switch is red/black - which is +/-?

Problem 2; forgetting polarity for a moment, there just aren't enough pins. All of them work besides the power LED. It takes 3 spaces. Blue wire, blank, white wire. There's only 2 pins for the power LED.

Any help greatly appreciated. Case is a Thermaltake, motherboard is MSI.

I'm putting a new PC together, and haven't built one in years. It is going to be based around a MSI H55M-E33 and Intel iCore3.

I purchased a Corsair XMS3 4 GB 1333MHz PC3-10666 240-pin DDR3 Memory Kit for Intel Core i3.

I thought this was 2 DIMMS, but it's only 1.

Do they have to be installed in pairs? I could probably find this in the motherboard manual, but it hasn't been delivered yet.

'99 Honda Civic EX, manual.

I was planning on changing my oil and rotating my tires today. Got the oil change done, but the tire rotation gave me trouble. I got the driver's front side up on a jack stand, got the lug nuts off no problem - but I can't get the wheel off. I tried kicking it, tried to knock it off with the flat side of a hammer - the thing won't budge. I didn't think it would matter, but I tried the parking brake on/off, in and out of gear, no help.

What's the trick here?

I want to change the oil on my 2009 Toyota Camry. I purchased a 3 ton floor jack, but I haven't used one before. I also have some heavy duty jack stands, which I have also never used. Should I position the jack's lifting point behind the front wheels on each side, or is there a way to use a central point to lift the entire front end of the car to allow both jack stands to be positioned at once? And where do the jack stands go once the car is up? I'm afraid of crushing a brake line or something,