Kevin M

Engine was pressure washed, now the idle is running at 2000 RPM and slowly rises. 1993 Ford F-150 5.0 EFI. So far, here is where we are at...

No vacuum leaks.

No disconnected wires.

All wire harnesses were sprayed with WD-40 to displace any water that may have gotten past a seal.

Recently replaced the following: Cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, tps, iac unit, egr valve and motor, cold air intake k&n, fuel filter, o2 sensor, and tranny serviced.--(Engine was running awesome after these replacements)

Now, immediately after the engine was pressure washed, the engine idle is high. While driving, the throttle is slightly more engaged than I would like, and the truck will not slow when you let off the gas. Oiled the throttle cable where it connects to the throttle body, no luck.

All fuses have checked fine. When I disconnect the IAC valve, I get an engine that idles where it's supposed to. I took the IAC apart, it's ohmn resistance is within specs. It's internals are clean and engage properly.

So, I'm thinking I have a sensor problem. Air Charge Sensor, MAP sensor, coolant temp sensor, barametric sensor, or ECM failure? Any help would be appreciated as this is probably going to start getting expensive.

The vehicle has had a day to dry out, lots of wd-40 to displace water. Please don't offer anything that I've already written about trying.

The engine was degreased by a mechanic today. Engine idle is usually 700 rpm, but now it's 2000+. I went ahead and wd-40'd all of the wire connections and throttle cables. I reset the ECM, no luck. I did disconnect the IAC, and the truck started and idle'd around 600 rpm. Reconnect the IAC and it's back to 2k+. On the road, whatever speed I accelerate to, the engine holds that speed. Cruise control will not allow me to use the coast method to bring speed down. Only braking will slow it down.

Recent work completed...

1 year ago

IAC, battery, pcv valve, egr valve, knn cold air intake, starter, starter relay, battery cables, relay to starter cable.

Last week

plugs, wires, cap, rotor, tps, coil, fuel filter, oil and filter, tranny serviced.

I checked all of the fuses, all is fine.

I assume there is some water that has accumulated in one of the wires. I'm going to give it a day and see if the engine has magically fixed itself. Can I assume that because the engine idle comes down with the IAC disconnected that the IAC is the culprit? Or is there any other possibilites? ie. vacuum leak, idle control screw was jarred in the cleaning process, or what?

5.0 Ford

We installed an Edelbrock 2750 performer intake manifold on a Ford 351 Cleveland 2v. To top it off, we put on an Edelbrock 600 cfm 4 barrel carb on there. We had some throttle cable adjustments that were made, and didn't install the kickdown connection for the purpose of the test. When starting, the engine ran at an extremely high rpm. Probably 3500+. The throttle cable at idle was completely taught with the throttle linkage on the carb at full closed. We hadn't hooked in the electric choke to a keyed accessory panel. Also, all of the vacuum lines were hooked up properly.

We replaced the stock coil with a performance coil. After the start, we went to shut off the engine, key turned off, engine kept running. At high RPM engine started to smoke. I ended up pulling off the coil wire from the top of the distributer and getting the jolt of my lifetime in the process. It was all we could do to get the engine to stop and prevent what was an inevitable seize or explosion.

A), what could have caused the idol to jump so high (keep in mind it was acting as if the gas pedal was floored? We've ruled out throttle cable. possibly because choke wasn't hooked up?

B) what could have caused the engine to ignore the shutoff from the key? Also, one of the wires from the coil had shorted and burned up in this process. The two small wires connecting in, possibly installed backwards?

I'm 230 lbs. and built pretty good, but I cannot stand to have things crawling on me. So, when I thought I was going to bed tonight, I opened the covers to find this guy. He was immediately smashed. But, I've been killing lots of these guys lately on the walls, so I thought I would put it out there to see if anyone can identify it. I would estimate the legspan to be close to 1.5 inches. Live in the US Pacific Northwest. No webs in the house, so I'm assuming it came from the attic.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d60/kevmarcn/spi...

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d60/kevmarcn/spi...

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d60/kevmarcn/spi...

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d60/kevmarcn/spi...

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d60/kevmarcn/spi...

My truck is making a clicking noise when I try to start it. I cleaned the battery terminals (wire brush and baking soda), changed the starter (brand new, not refurb), attempted to jump it with two different sets of cables, and still I am getting a clicking noise. The starter isn't getting enough juice to turn the fly wheel it seems. We're going to take the battery in to get tested in the morning, but I have a suspicion that it will turn out to be fine. I don't want to replace the batter cables just yet (positive y's off and goes deep into the engine, negative is simple enough). In the interest of time saving from changing out those wires, are there any other suggestions to try before spending a weekend tearing into a tightly packed engine compartment?

5.0 302 fuel injected gas, k&n cold air intake, recently replaced o2 sensor, exhaust system, egr valve and sensor, idle air control unit, cap, rotor, plugs, wires. 136000 miles, running 1030 high mileage oil.