chris

Hopefully someone here with some knowledge can help me out.

I have degreed the intake cam to 107 but the exhaust at the stock location i am getting 79?? Stock is suppose to be 105 on both. Im not sure what the hell is going on. I can get the exhaust cam up to 101 but that is with the sprocket all the way to one side on the slot. And at that point the stock timing mark is WAY off.

I have no idea what is going on and why the intake cam out just fine but the exhaust is soo far off.

The head and cylinders have been milled so checking the timing on stock marks is out of the question

I am using the YEC method of measuring the event angle. The maximum lift method. 2mm before and 2mm after cam maximum lift then divide by 2.

Any thoughts would be greatly appriciated.

94 accord. Just replaced headgasket and timing belt. It had a very small coolant leak into the #1 cylinder(it sealed up once it got hot) I had the head resurfaced when doing the repair. Everything is hooked up correctly but the temp gauge is reading full hot(sensor went bad I guess..kinda odd) and after its heated up, if I rev it, when it comes down to idle it will chug really bad or just cut out..sometimes it chugs and comes back up to idle and it will idle fine. Any ideas?

Its a F22 vtech head on a 94 honda accord. I am chaning the head gasket and want to have it milled down for a perfectly flat service. What is the recommend amount to mill off and still have proper valve to piston clearance or is there a service spec?

I have a Toshiba Qosmio X505-Q850 laptop. Ive been having problems with the graphics driver and its been in for repair 5 times...still havnt fixed it but right now I am getting stupid low frame rates. On Crysis 2 on the lowest setting at 1600x900 res it gets 35fps at best and dragon age II is horrible at 30fps TOPS on the lowest settings at 1600x900 res. My native res is 1920x1080...so it really sucks having to turn it down and the graphics still chug along. Any help would be greatly appriciated. All drivers are up to date. Here are my puter specs. : 6gb DDR3, Core I7 720qm 1.6, intel PM55 chipset, NVIDIA GTS 250M 1gb DDR5, 320 ATA-300 hard drive,

its a 94 honda accord automatic. The car shifts quite ruffly as well but the car as been taken care of and is in excellent condition. The problem im having is at about 1/8-1/4 throttle opening in any gear the car vibrates very badly then if you press the throttle a little more to get past 1/4 opening its smooth as can be. Im baffled.

Also, before when I lived in florida, when the car was cold on start up the engine would "miss" for about 10 seconds and sometimes die but then run fine after the initial 5-10 seconds. I never could fiqure out what it was. Then when I moved back up to georgia it hasnt happend since.

I know an actual Lemon law for computers doesnt exist, but here is my problem I have a 2 year full coverage warranty on my laptop. The ONLY issue I had at first was a graphics card driver was failing and the screen would go black then come back up and tell me the driver failed. So I sent it in for that.

When I got it back, the LCD screen had TONS of pixels that were black. They said they replaced the VGA card, but I still had the issue with the graphics card driver expect now the error it said was a Windows Kernel or something. And now the Windows Performance Index went from 6.9 down to 4.9.

So I had to send it in again. They had to replace the LCD, but did nothing regarding the Graphics issue. And now im getting BIOS error beeps and the screen only comes on sometimes..

Okay, here is my question, regarding the warranty. The warranty was done through a company associated with toshiba. When I was talking to a case manager with Toshiba she said since they are not able to fix it I should call my warranty provider and see if I am eligible for a product replacement..So I call them and they say Toshiba has never submitted any claim for repair so they are not willing to do anything for me. My warranty runs out on november 13 and toshbia has had my laptop 2 different times for over a month and im about to send it back in again. If they end up never fixing it and my warranty runs out, am I screwed?

I know an actual Lemon law for computers doesnt exist, but here is my problem I have a 2 year full coverage warranty on my laptop. The ONLY issue I had at first was a graphics card driver was failing and the screen would go black then come back up and tell me the driver failed. So I sent it in for that.

When I got it back, the LCD screen had TONS of pixels that were black. They said they replaced the VGA card, but I still had the issue with the graphics card driver expect now the error it said was a Windows Kernel or something. And now the Windows Performance Index went from 6.9 down to 4.9.

So I had to send it in again. They had to replace the LCD, but did nothing regarding the Graphics issue. And now im getting BIOS error beeps and the screen only comes on sometimes..

Okay, here is my question, regarding the warranty. The warranty was done through a company associated with toshiba. When I was talking to a case manager with Toshiba she said since they are not able to fix it I should call my warranty provider and see if I am eligible for a product replacement..So I call them and they say Toshiba has never submitted any claim for repair so they are not willing to do anything for me. My warranty runs out on november 13 and toshbia has had my laptop 2 different times for over a month and im about to send it back in again. If they end up never fixing it and my warranty runs out, am I screwed?

Looking for options to boost oil pressure to a range of 50~90psi for journal bearings on a turbo. This is on a horizontal honda style 200cc motor...this is the last step til completion but its proving the most difficult. I have considered an electric oil pump but the only ones I can find are the very large ones found on cars. I need something small with the least amount of amperage draw possible.

I have a pitbike with a needle bearing for the transmission...dumbest S**T I have ever seen. I need a ball bearing but this size is extrememly odd 27mm outer 17 inner...12 in the width but it could be less. ANY help would be appriciated as i can not find anything

I am looking at getting a welder. Im new to the game of welding. I like TIG, but my common sense tells me MIG will be easier for me to learn with. Im weary of buying cheap quality electrical items, Harbor freight reeks of poor quality but they had some with really good reviews on MIG 140 amp for $300 and TIG 165 amp for $400(both are chicago electric). I found a Matco 140amp MIG at the pawn shop..it is of the newer style. They have it listed for $400...retail is around $1200 new. My question is, is how risky is buying a used welder? I know Matco is quality but anything used can be a little risky. What should I look for?

Any comments on my situation would be helpful, Thanks

I am looking at getting a welder. Im new to the game of welding. I like TIG, but my common sense tells me MIG will be easier for me to learn with. Im weary of buying cheap quality electrical items, Harbor freight reeks of poor quality but they had some with really good reviews on MIG 140 amp for $300 and TIG 165 amp for $400(both are chicago electric). I found a Matco 140amp MIG at the pawn shop..it is of the newer style. They have it listed for $400...retail is around $1200 new. My question is, is how risky is buying a used welder? I know Matco is quality but anything used can be a little risky. What should I look for?

Any comments on my situation would be helpful, Thanks

I know how to cc a head. The question is, How do you CC a head when the valve sticks up just slightly above the surface for which the plexi plate is sealing to? The intake valve sticks out Maybe 2-3 mils when seated. making it impossible to get the plexi to seal against the surface

-Background info- Its on a 2007 Yamaha R1

I know how to cc a head. The question is, How do you CC a head when the valve sticks up just slightly above the surface for which the plexi plate is sealing to? The intake valve sticks out Maybe 2-3 mils when seated. making it impossible to get the plexi to seal against the surface

-Background info- Its on a 2007 Yamaha R1

I am collecting information on HPLV painting setup, I have never painted before. I dont really believe in buying the cheapest stuff, I want something that has good quality. Im painting not so much for cars but for motorcycles..a lot of plastic fairings. So far I have the area set up in my garage dedicated to painting with the ventilation and plastic drop cloth to section it off from everything else. My air compressor is up to par, but I need some kind of filtration because I know water will be an issue. The filters I have seen are around $350, The gun im looking at is a Sharpe FX3000 but I saw on their website that they have a package deal that comes with the FX3000 and a smaller HPLV gun. Just the fx3000 I can get for $80 but the package is $290. The link for the package is listed below. Any suggestions as far as setup, filtration or different spray guns would be a big help. Thanks

http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe.nsf/Page/Fine...

Is it possible to upgrade the graphics card on this laptop? Its running the 250M i believe. Ive heard of a few people doing it on various laptops but I know its not a common thing. Anyone that has any experience with this laptop, advice would be appreciated. Thanks

Title says it all. It was suppose to be release summer of 2011, atleast thats what their website says.

This is going to seem a little outlandish but I know it to be true and im trying to protect myself.

I worked for a guy who owned an irrigation company, it was just him and his partner. The owner had some extreme mental issues but he is very Intelligent. The problem is he wanted me to fill out a W-9, i never have before so I was going through it. I put my SS# on it and when I get to where you sign it I noticed it was already signed by someone else. He claimed his book keeper must have sent her W-9 to him.(Yet the only thing filled out was the signature on it) He took the form and said he would get one another day for me to fill out. He has never had me fill out one. I was always payed with company checks so I have never gotten a pay stub. I have asked for a summary of monies paid but he wont give me anything. I have come to find out via a previous employee that he did the same exact thing to him! Apparently the owner has closed the Business and opened a new one 12 times. And when the owner was doing this to that other employee, that employee had to end up paying the book keepers taxes because he had no proof of what he was paid and the company didn't exist anymore so there wernt any records. This to me seems so Insane. I have contacted the IRS and they bascially told me if I dont have something saying what I have been paid(like a check stub) I am SOL. So I contacted the Dept of labor to have them request a summary of all monies paid to me since the employer wont give it to me. What else can I do to protect myself?