hunter79764

I've got a couple trucks I'd like to combine into one decent farm/hunting truck.

Truck 1 is a ~73 K5 Blazer 4x4 Automatic, missing engine and rear end.

Truck 2 is a '73 3/4 ton 2wd, running 350 and 4 spd SM465 and 14 bolt rear.

I'd like to put the running engine and rear end from truck 2 into truck 1 and have a running 4x4 Blazer. I know I will need to check axle ratios to make sure they match etc.

My question is which transmission should I use?

I'm going to assume that the TH350 in the Blazer needs a rebuild ($400?) and that it has the NP203 transfer case (It might be the 205?). The SM465 is set up for 2wd, but for $500 I think I can adapt it to the existing transfer case. If there is a better option than buying the adapters new, I'm interested, or if there is a cheap alternative to the existing transfer case that would work better with the SM465.

With both trucks sitting side by side, converting the Blazer to standard wouldn't be too bad of an ordeal, and I'm 60/40 on wanting a stickshift. It will be a hunting truck only, no highway or daily driving, maybe 200 miles a year at 20 mph...

I have a friend with a 2003 Cavalier that cracked the block. I'm hoping to find a wrecking yard used engine/shortblock to swap in, but I don't know what all applications will transplant.

I.E., does it have to be a Cavalier/Sunfire, or can any other FWD models that use the Ecotec motor be used?

Also, any tips on swapping them out? Special tools? I've done swaps on older cars, but no FWD or anything like that.

Thanks in advance.

Suppose a person gets a traffic violation for speeding in given county. They elect to do a defensive driving class to keep it off their record. Before the class is actually taken, they get another ticket in a different county. Can the person elect to take the defensive driving course for that ticket as well, and take one class for both tickets? Both tickets are normal speeding tickets.

The statement I've heard is that you can't take the class more than once in 12 months to remove a ticket, but if it has not been taken yet, can it cover two tickets?

I'm wondering about a homemade electric vehicle build using a 3 phase AC electric motor (leftover industrial application) and a Variable Frequency Drive inverter that accepts DC voltage input for the main power and a 0-10V speed input that could be attached to a "gas" pedal potentiometer. I could have these components for cheap/free if I wanted them, and I have a truck that could be used. Is this a plausible setup? Why or why not?

Also, what is the recommended motor power rating for an average electric conversion? I'd like to be able to keep up with traffic at 65-70 if I need to, but I'm not interested in hot rodding around all of the time.

I have an 85 Monte Carlo with the 4.3 TBI v6, TH350 transmission swapped in, and the stock open rear end and around 2.14 gears, can't remember the exact ratio, but yes they made them that tall. I am wanting to swap in about 325hp worth of motor (slightly warmed up 5.3 LS) and keep the TH350 and rear end to keep costs down and gas mileage up. With the tall gears, I can't really use an overdrive trans anyway, so they would have to be replaced as a pair.

With 245/60 R14's on the street (maybe a 1/4 mile pass or two just to see what it will do), no transbrake or anything crazy like that, and stock converter, is it reasonable to expect the rear end to hold up to normal street driving with the occasional romp on the gas?

I know there would be a lot more potential with some 3.73's and an overdrive, but unless you are going to pay for it, don't bother. :)

I have an 85 Monte Carlo with the 4.3 TBI v6, TH350 transmission swapped in, and the stock open rear end and around 2.14 gears, can't remember the exact ratio, but yes they made them that tall. I am wanting to swap in about 325hp worth of motor (slightly warmed up 5.3 LS) and keep the TH350 and rear end to keep costs down and gas mileage up. With the tall gears, I can't really use an overdrive trans anyway, so they would have to be replaced as a pair.

With 245/60 R14's on the street (maybe a 1/4 mile pass or two just to see what it will do), no transbrake or anything crazy like that, and stock converter, is it reasonable to expect the rear end to hold up to normal street driving with the occasional romp on the gas?

I know there would be a lot more potential with some 3.73's and an overdrive, but unless you are going to pay for it, don't bother. :)

I want to install an LS based V-8 into an '85 Monte Carlo. I believe the truck block fits easier (due to coil placement) but the car-style accessory drive fits better with the cross member. I plan on getting a truck engine (5.3l) and adding the car accessory drive (GM pn 19155066/19155166, with or w/o AC). Will that allow me to run an LS6 style intake manifold on the 5.3, or are there other issues why that intake cant be used on a truck engine?

I have a desktop system I am wanting to use to watch Netflix on my TV. I have it connected now, but the video is a little choppy on full screen.

Pentium 4 processor, 2.8GHz

Enough hard drive (not a concern)

1.25 gb DDR RAM (2x 512 mb + 1x 128 mb on a 3 slot Mobo)

128 mb video card (AGP 8x slot)

I'd like to keep it cheap (~$50?), so what should be the first piece of the puzzle? No gaming or anything more than playing music and movies.

Thanks.

Or another GM coupe like it (Regal, Cutlass, etc). Just the window seal along the doors, not the lower seal between the doors and body. Is it glued down, or held by trim pieces?

I'm not a novice, I just haven't done this kind of job before and need to know about how much time it will take and if it's worth it.

I'm looking to rebuild a desktop for some minor 3-D modeling. I have a pretty good idea of processor and price range (dual-core Intel or AMD, still undecided, and about $200 for processor/mobo together) and a sufficient graphics card, but I'm not sure what motherboard to go with. I know it generally comes down to preference, but what are some good brands and what are brands to avoid?

Thanks, and any relevant input on processors would be good too.

My dog is an 11 month old German Shepherd/Golden Retriever male who currently weighs around 75 lbs. He is not overweight at all, and overall seems very healthy and happy. He does seem to be eating quite a bit, though, and sometimes does not eat willingly for a meal or two. I am feeding him Purina One Large Breed Puppy formula, about 4-5 cups twice a day (9 cups total). Sometimes he is disinterested in his food, and will not eat at all. Sometimes, I stay next to him and get him to take a bite, and after that, he eats it all pretty quickly, picking up any pieces he drops. I don't see any evidence of diarrhea or vomit after he eats, but he does get noticeably skinnier when he skips a meal.

I have had him for about a month, but his previous owners said he was current on everything. It almost sounds like he may have some kind of worms, but I'm not sure. I'm in college, but I can afford a vet visit if needed. I'm just not too anxious to pay $100 for them to tell me he is a big dog that needs a lot of food.

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

The car is a '99 Cavalier, and I need to clean out some trash (leaves) in the A/C ducts. I pulled the blower motor the other day and removed a handful of leaves, but a little while later, the ducts were blocked off again and air wouldn't blow out much. If I reverse the motor and clean the blower housing out again, it seems like it will take care of the problem, but I don't know if it will damage the motor or even work at all.

I know it's a later model Ford Model T Roadster, but we don't know what year it is. The seller bought it as a '28, but after some research, there was no '28 Model T. If you know or even have a decent guess, I would appreciate it.

(Pictures at this link)

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=111887&l=75b...

(It's the crusty one. The other pictures are inspiration for the future)

P.S. I quickly looked for a tag or patent plate or something, but couldn't find one. If you know where to look for it, that would help too. Anything to help identify this car so we can start getting a parts list made up.

I live in Texas, and my father and I are going to rebuild a Model T Roadster (1925-ish) into a T-Bucket street rod. I know it doesn't have a title now, and we have a receipt from the guy we bought it from, but what would the process be to get it titled for street use?

1998 Toyota Camry 4-cyl.

Engine starts and runs, but makes a horrible, random clunking sound that seems to come from the water pump area. Coolant was seeping from front cover, appeared to be from water pump area again. engine idles, but wont rev up at all.

My guess is that a bearing let loose or a vane broke off the water pump and is bouncing around inside, triggering the knock sensor which pulls out all of the timing, not letting it rev. Sound right?

If that is the problem, what all is involved in replacing the water pump? Its my roommate's car, but I told him I would fix it if possible to save some money. I'm a fairly competent mechanic, but I don't have the best setup here while I'm away at school, so any info on how involved this will be, how many hours of labor is listed for that, or anything to watch for from someone who has had a similar problem before would be greatly appreciated.

I have a '78 GMC K5 Blazer removable hardtop parts truck. Any info on what transfer case or front axle it has? NP205? Could it have a Dana axle?

And is it possible to rotate the transfer case on the mounting flange to get a better driveshaft angle, or does it have to be level to function properly?

Also (last one) would it screw up the transfer case if I run full power to the front axle only (basically disconnect the rear driveshaft)?

Weird questions, I know, but any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have an '85 Monte Carlo with a converted a/c system (134a). I have the guages to check the pressure, and I know my way around cars, so don't just tell me to take it to a mechanic. But with a temp of about 75 f and 60-70% humidity and the a/c on full blast, what should the readings be? It was low and I added refrigerant to it, so I didn't have a clear baseline and I think I may have overfilled the system.