Marshal

I am making a small HPA compressor.

The cylinder will be made from T6 6061 Aluminum (maybe something else)

One cylinder will be 1/4" ID the other will be 3/15" ID with a stroke of 7" to 10" each.

I hope to produce 3000 to 4500 psi. I would like to see additional reserve for safety of up to 7000 psi but it will have bust disks for 5k.

So how thick would I need to make the cylinders. At least give my some calculations so if I change sizes I can solve it.

So I been trying to rent an apartment for me and my GF. However, every place I went to said they would not accept the application becaues she was not in US to sing papers and she has no SSN and does not know how to screen her. I did not know you could get a SSN while you have not entered the country yet, only finding this out a few days ago. Then of course she had the paper with her the last 3 months and did not even know what it was talking about so she never told me.

I spent the last month looking for a place but all the same answer. She just arrived on Friday so now I have to stay at a hotel up until we can get her a SSN.

Unless there is another way to screen her?

They want this to do background checks and credit checks. They wont just run me.

So my bro bought this used build gaming computer a few weeks ago and the internet on it was fine. It was receiving a speed of 54 Mbps (802.11g speeds from what I understand). 3 days ago he took it to a friends house to play some games. Then he noticed he was getting some really bad internet connections and had to go wired. His friends there, the wireless was working just fine for them and it was 4 computers/laptops. Now its back home and still having internet problems.

I take a look at his internet speed and it was only receiving 11 Mbps (802.11b from my understanding).

So I take a look at my router setting and its was set to mixed B/G. My computer was getting 54 and his was only getting 11. I went back and switched it to G only and then he was getting 54. I decided to update the driver and switch the setting on the router to mixed again. After this he was getting 11, so I went back to G only and was still only getting 11. I then roll back the driver and set the router to G only. The connection was at 54 for a split second and the dropped back to 11.

So my question is how can I change the setting on the wireless receiver in the computer to receive G only or correct the problem. As you can tell even with the router at G only my computer would receive 54 but his would not.

The computer was Windows 8 but the prior owner switched it Windows 7. The wireless receiver is a Broadcom 802.11N network adapter. After update it read 802.11 B/G/N.

Does anyone ever vent bass from woofer in to the cabin?

My car does not have fold down seats so they have to stay put and the fairly thick. Behind this I have some MDF used to mount the amps between the wood and the seat so my trunk can remain wire free (besides the speaker wire) and keep the trunk neat to remove the woofer or for storage.

Naturally becaues of the wood and the seat almost all the bass can not pass the seat other then the vibration but not audible sound. If the makes scenes to some one, much like standing out side of a club.

The other part I made a fairly thick fiberglass rear deck board to mount the 6x9 (5" I think was the largest you could fit in the factory mount) Since it was curved in places I did not want I had to make deck to make a flat mounting area for the speakers instead of shoving them in the center. I cut out all the metal in the deck area and then welded supports in the area just out side the speakers so I could support the speaker and give to keep the body strength.

The deck is pretty contoured and secured to the frame so this add to loss of sound.

So since I have room under the deck, the deck and everything is custom would anyone recommend cutting out some decent sized vents in the rear deck? I am thinking two vents one each side of the center brace about 8 to 10 in by 4 to 6 in mostly square shaped with one side circular on the inside edges 3 to 5 in apart.

So my amp is a BRX 2400 and it is capable of putting out 1600 watts at 2 Ohm. It is a monoblock but it has 4 terminal (two neg and two pos) so that you can run 2 woofers sorta on its own channel. The amp wiring inside is wired in parallel for the terminals.

So I have two option for wiring my DVC 2 Ohm 12 in CVX's.

I can either run the sub in parallel voice coil/ woofer wired in series. This would ring each subs down to 1 Ohm each and when connected together at the amp using only one pos and one neg. It would be 2 Ohm 1600 watts.

or

I can wire series voice coils bringing each woofer to 4 Ohms and use all the terminals on the amp (that would them parallel them) and this would bring the load on the amp to 2 Ohm for 1600 watts.

So what is better- 1+1=2 or 4-4=2? Can some one explain the performance differences between the two and why one is better?

I keep asking my self this question and always wondered it.

Lets say I have just have 2 simple set ups. Set up 1 - 1 SVC 4 Ohm at 500 RMS sub and set up 2 - 1 SVC 2 Ohm at 500 watts RMS.

No matter what the load it for each set up the amp will put out 500 watts RMS.

Do the subs ever loose its received power becaues of the impedance or does this only apply to amps? Would the 4 Ohm loose more of its received power compared to the 2 Ohm?

I always thought no matter what the application if you keep going up on resistance you would dissipate the supply of power.

Like wire, the longer you get the less amps it can handle and you lose voltage becaues of the increasing resistance.

I have two CVX's having a set of 2 Ohm DVC and a set 4 Ohm DVC but only plan on using one of the set sending the other back and Hifonics BRX 2000.1

Kicker says (sealed box) 1 cu ft is the minimum and I think some where around 5-6 is the maximum. The smaller specs say I can run 750 RMS each while the larger box specs say 300 RMS each.

Right now my box is 1.7cu ft for each woofer box and I might make new ones to 2 cu ft.

Should I run the subs in 2 Ohm and push 1400 watts and be 100 less or 1 Ohm and push the 2000 watts and be 500 over? Maybe bring the gain down as well to bring it close to 1500. That is also based on my current box sizing and new planed size.

I know that I will never push the constant 2000 or plan on playing it high very often but you know what I mean.

Don't worry about the electrical of the car it can handle it .

So I am getting all dazed and confused on my choices.

Should I get 2 Kicker 12 in CVX back or 1 Hifonics 12 in Olympus OLM1600D2.

No matter what I get I can put the power down for them so what should I get?

So I am looking at the Brutus X-14 X1900.1D and the Brutus BRX2000.1D

Now I only need the 1400 Watts at 2 Ohms and both of them do that. Besides the look and a few other things like slaving on anything X1900 and below compared to most BRX getting them . I was told the BRX is lower 70% efficient and the X-14 is 83% efficient and the X-14 gets a better crossover.

I am a little puzzled by the fuse rating. X1900 gets 2 60 Amp maxi fuse and the BRX get 2 100 Amp maxi fuse.

According to some math the X-14 fuses seems a little low and the BRX seems high but is sufficient. That was all based from 100% efficient as well.

However, they are both CEA complaint.

Any thoughts?

Hooked up my DMM (my scope RMS reading is 4% off compared to my DMM) to the amp and undistorted it was only putting out 8.05 volts. 8.05 volts at 2 ohms is 33.4 watts.

I took a look at all my transistors and they all looked fine and resistance checked out.

With my gain all the way up it did not clip but it was getting some distortion wave in the middle even then it only was putting out 9.4 volts (44 watts) after looking at my power draw from the batt to the speakers amp and this amp it was pulling under 40 amps and that sound about right.

The only way I was able to get the volts need to pull 1000 watts RMS was to crank the bass boast all the way up.

Yes all my grounds are good, have the right size wire, all my RCA are good, my HU is good everything came in specs after I tested them.

Even with my subs hooked up (2 12" kicker 2 Ohm CVX wired to 2 Ohms) I did not hear anything with the gain all the way up until I got past have of the boost.

Anyone else have this problem or have ideas?

In addition to this question?

/question/index;_ylt=Apxn...

After all the amp I am runing 1200 watt RMS.

I have a HO alt, the right wiring, fuses, and all that stuff need to run about 2000 watt RMS for it I get a bigger amp and speakers so no restritions there.

That all being said when I am at 3/4 HU level I am on pulling 30ish amp from the batt.

Do I need the speakers or any type of load hooked up to the amp when setting my gains using a scope?

Would this not change how the scope would read if there was not a load on it compared to the 2 or 4 ohm load.

I have 3 gain setting to set so I am wondering if I need them hooked up or not.

Am I able to keep them hooked up with out a problem?

I got 2 amps one to power all the speakers in the car and one to power the subs.

I am still debating if I should use the HU setting for all the setting or use the amp setting.

What should I use to do the settings?The Amps or the HU?

Anyone got a good idea what would be the best HP filter frequency for the speakers would be and the best cross over filter frequency for the subs?

HU-Kenwood KDC 352U

Everything else is all Kicker

Speakers- Fronts KS 525 (5 1/4), Rears- KS 693 (6x9)

Speaker Amp- DX 400.1

Subs- 2 CVX 12" 2 Ohm

Sub Amp- ZX 1000.1

Each sub box is sealed and a little over 2.2' CU. Ft

Heard a song on the radio but not sure what it was called. Sounds like a new song as I have not heard it before.

I want to say the title contains "fire" in it, that would be becaues the main versus said some about it.

The song is pop/ dance I think.

Start throwing song out there and maybe I will find it.

If am correct I am to use a 50 Hz tone to set the gain on a amp that is powering a sub?

If it is a mid/high speakers I use 1 Hz?

or is a different tone?

I have 4 speakers I am powering for the my car (my last amp went out and my old speaks have show age). The fronts are 45 RMS and the rears are 100 RMS would it be ok to use a 50x4 RMS amp?

or does anyone have a idea of mini amp or different amp combination with 4 amp, 2 amp or one amp to get individual channels with close to or matching RMS.

So here is the problem my old amp and speakers are junk and want to get new ones.

I already have 4 new speakers 5 1/4 for the front and 6x9 in the rear.

The front are 45 watt RMS and the rears are 100 watt RMS. I am having some trouble finding amps the satisfy the requirements. I do want to stay in kicker for the amps to match the speaks and the woofers and the amp for that.

I thought about using two amps each two chan or a one single 4 chan but like I stated have problems find amps that meat the requirement.

I am open to suggestions if anyone has got any ideas.

How would I go about making the breading and deep frying ranch dressing?

One restaurant I went to did this for a topping on its food. I want to make them but I have no idea how to do this.