Genius Gene

35mm is considered a full frame sensor. If someday a 50mm or 100mm sensor is made then in that case 35mm will be again a crop sensor... right? or is it that 35mm is the limit over which a sensor cannot be made?

I have been bitten by the Macro Bug lately. I own a Nikon D5000 (which doesn't have an internal focus motor). I am looking for a good macro lens, which has following features:

# gives 1:1 magnification

# has vibration resistance

# should auto-focus on my camera

# my budget is around $600

Please suggest me the options to look for. Will highly appreciate your inputs.

It would also be helpful if someone can explain the role of steam and water vapor in recovery of aroma from a substance.

It may be from a closed one, from a teacher or even a book... but the best advice for you..

I am planning to get a Manfrotto Tripod (Model 055xProB) specially because I love its horizontal arm. Now that I am decided on this model, I am looking for a suitable head to use on the tripod.

Looking forward to your suggestions...

Additional Info: I have a Nikon D5000 + a battery grip and I will be using the set up with Sigma 10-20mm or Nikon 55-200 or few portrait prime lenses. Also, I intend to use it for macro lenses in future.

Here are few points that may help you to guide me:

# I have working knowledge of basic photography lighting.

# I am mostly interested in portrait shots (not for professional but creative desire)

# I am either looking for continuous light or using my flash gun with the set up

# Not looking for strobes as they are expensive

# looking for economic options.

Looking forward to your suggestions.

Its not a question of CAN DO or CANNOT DO. Lets assume that we CAN DO, then let your foresight give an optimistic view

Humans are resourceful though and if we do not wipe ourselves out or succumb to a catastrophe (like, hit by asteroids) we will probably be able to modify our environment to suit our needs.

Few things that I can think of:

# Maybe a thermonuclear warhead will save the Earth from an asteroid impact.

# Maybe clean atmosphere will be manufactured.

# Possibly the human race will venture out to other planets.

Can you add your forecast to the list?

Can anyone explian that with the chemical reaction that happens?

I need some guide on speedlights. I'm looking forward to get one for Portrait/Lowlight photography and so far i'm stuck between Nikon SB600 and Nissin di622.

# Nissin model is about 45% cheaper to Nikon. The merchant said it's better than sb600 but i have no idea in what way.

# I use Nikon D5000 which doesnt have commander mode; hence I cant use SB600 as remote.

# The Nissin Di622 seems to be slightly more powerful than the SB-600, capable of 44m/145ft (ISO100) compared to the SB-600’s 42m/138ft (ISO100) power delivery specification @ 35mm zoom.

# Most reviews I read are biased or overated by user of same flash.

Any concrete and critical reason for me to choose sb600 instead of di622 here?

Looking forward to your advice.

I am aware that SB-600 is really good for off camera lighting shots triggered by the camera for effect.

But, alas my D5000 can not do this, only the D90 and above models have this facility.

My queries:

1) What else does the SB600 have over the SB400 for the excess $100?

2) If I need to use the flash off camera using iTTL, what options do I have? SB800/900 is beyond my budget, I am pointing towards remote cable/triggers.

Would appreciate answers point wide and with proper reason.

Trying to pick a flash for my D5000. Please Help!

I have a confusion..

Nikon Dx cameras have a "lens factor" of 1.5. This means that we just multiply this with the actual focal length of the lens to get the 35 mm equivalent and then we can make comparisons accurately from camera-to-camera.

That way, our 18 mm would actually be 27 and your 18-55 mm will corresponds to 27-82.5 mm

To calculate the 'x' zoom, Do we divide the higher value with lower: 82.5/27 = 3.0556??

That way, the 18-55mm lens is a 3x zoom lens.

But 18 mm (27 in 35mm equivalent) is not a zoom but a wide angle. In that case, 35 is to be taken as zero zoom. And this leads to 82.5/35 = 2.36 'x', which seems more logical to me.

Need your inputs.. would you consider 18-55 mm as '3x' or '2.36x' zoom?

I don't know much about flash.. can You tell me on what specification should be compared and how to compare them?

Additional info: I have a D5000. Would prefer to make use of light bounce and side angular lighting techniques.

I am looking for an external flash for my Nikon D5000

I am aware that d5000 have no commander mode.

The SB-600 can be used on camera now (or with a cord) or wireless with a 3rd party trigger.

Alternately, SB800 or SB900 is to be used.

My queries (please answer point-wise):

1. what are the pros and cons of these flashes (in reference to D5000) ?

2. Is there a considerable price difference between SB600+triggers; SB 800; and SB 900 ?

3. Which one would you prefer to suggest considering features and the price?

Focus bracketing (or focus stacking) can be extremely useful in situations such as macro photography, since the large apertures involved severely constrain the depth of field.

Can anyone guide me on a step by step manner, how to achieve Focus bracketing?

Settings with D5000 would be an additional help!

How do you process your images after you take them in your digital camera.

I understand there may be specific requirement for few but what general steps you follow for most photos?

What I typically do is:

1. take both JPGs and RAWs from the card into a folder in my external HDD with the date and location of shoot.

2. Delete the really bad photos that I will never use.

3. Select the good ones and import them to Elements 7

4. Adjust Levels, Brightness/contrast, Saturation

5. Crop to typical 5X7 size

6. Save them in a folder at the laptop for immediate use.

7. Transfer few which needs touch-up to PS CS4 or Lightroom 2.5

8. Folder with all good edited photos are duplicated in HDD again.

9. Make another folder with resized low res version, for upload into flickr or other sharing portals

What about you? – how do you approach post production of your images? What tools do you use? and what order do you follow? Do you think thats the best approach?

Do you love your country? Do you feel glad to have been born in your country? Do you think you are a good citizen? What makes you a true patriot of your country?

How to create the following effect in Photoshop (preferably in Photoshop Elements).

http://picasaweb.google.com/genius.gene/API12#5500...

Please give step by step instructions...

Can you give me a list of shops at Hyderabad, India, where I can get Digital camera accessories (like Shutter Release cable, Rain Covers, Filters etc.) at competitive price?

Vibration Reduction (VR) or Image Stabilization (IS) is a property of lens which is used to reduce blurring associated with the motion of a camera during exposure.

However, if the lens is on a tripod, there technically no need to put the VR on. I always kept it on thinking it would even minimize the chance of shake while pressing shutter.

Is it necessary to switch off VR/IS of lens while on tripod? Does it have any impact on the quality of photograph?

Vibration Reduction (VR) or Image Stabilization (IS) is a property of lens which is used to reduce blurring associated with the motion of a camera during exposure. Lenses with VR/IS cost more than the normal ones. However, I am often suggested by many to put it off unless absolutely needed. They prefer to use tripod in place of VR/IS.

My query... is there any significant difference in image quality while using

1) lens VR/IS switched on (without Tripod support)

and

2) Lens with VR/IS switched off (on a tripod support)?

Can you please explain which is better and why?