The Russian

I usually use all temp wax on my boards, but it seems like there’s a good amount of friction every time I hit most boxes (especially on warm days). It also seems that when I don’t wax a board for a while it slides better on boxes, even though it rides slower on snow. Has anyone any experience with using temp-specific waxes on boxes or rails? Cold temp, warm temp, etc.? Thanks.

PS. I’m on the ice coast and temperatures are usually 10F and up most of the season.

I'm looking for resort within about 1.5 - 2 hrs driving distance from NYC that accommodates cross-country skiing and snowboarding. Any help would be appreciated!

My folks want to get back on snow after a 20+ yr break, so they're only for cross-country ski trails or super easy greens. At the same time, I would like to do some snowboarding out there too. So, like I said, any help or suggestions would be much appreciated!

I've already visited quite a few in NC, VA, PA, and Killington in VT (which was a effin sick!). Just want to see if there are any resorts that I really should take a look at in the upcoming season. I'm looking for all types of terrain - straight runs, moguls, jib and jump parks, etc. Any input about resort highlights would be appreciated.

Thanks ya'll!

Just a thought... Are there any laws as to how much a weapon receiver can be altered or modified before it requires a new registration or becomes illegal to own?

I know that some earlier Saiga receivers (rifles and shotguns) have been modified to accept a pistol grip and some pistol receivers commonly undergo multiple permanent alterations for competition purposes. The question is - how far can that be taken?

At the extreme I imagine a completely new receiver being machined and the piece with the serial number cut from the old receiver and welded to the new one. I can only assume that that is illegal, but don’t recall seeing any guidance from BATFE on the subject.

Any constructive input is appreciated.

I’m just looking for a general direction – make and model.

I’ve ridden all-mountain and free-ride boards (mid and low flex) all these years and looking to pick up a freestyle board to play around with on jumps and moguls mostly. So if you have a flexible board that you would recommend or if you know of any that appeal to you, please share.

Thank you all!

I was considering buying the older style CETME with a metal lower receiver when I saw several places selling complete new polymer lower receivers. The problem with that is that those receivers have a full-auto selector and I assume full-auto components too (these websites weren’t very specific). I don’t want to make rifle full-auto, so I’m assuming that I would need to remove some or all full-auto components to make the receiver fit. Has anyone ever attempted this swap? Any problems or difficulties?

In case anyone is wondering why not just buy a rifle with a synthetic lower receiver, the answer is $$$.

Just wondering if that icy rain that hit the western part of PA hit Whitetail as well. Calling the lodge there is useless - they always say that the conditions are decent.

Thanks in advance ya'll.

So I'm assuming that the majority of the snowboarding community is on the same page about weight and shoe sizing being the dominant factors in determining the size of the board... and that the "between chin and nose" rule is a bunch of BS. But don't you think that height should be counted as a factor as well? In my opinion it doesn't make much sense for a 200lb rider with size 10 feet to get a 160cm board if he's 5'4". A shorter, stiffer board would be a better option.

So, what do you think are the physical characteristics that should be taken into account in choosing board size? Height, physical shape, eye color, etc. And do you think that the "between chin and nose" sizing is a good starting point in determining the board size? (Note that I said STARTING point.)

Well, it's a depressing time when the greatest AK producer files for bankruptcy... I sincerely doubt that the Russian gov. will let it shut down, seeing how Izhmash is the primary source of light infantry armament. Any thoughts, opinions, or news that don't make it to the mainstream media? Also, I noticed a significant drop in prices on Russian-made ammo. Do you think that's caused by Izhmash liquidating its stored supply to raise emergency funds?

Since I haven't been able to find a real SVD in the States (not one of those Romanian knock-offs), I've been looking for a substitute rifle. I came across the Yugo M76, 8mm which seems like it's a quality rifle, but I haven't heard much about it. Any info on accuracy, reliability, or shooting experience would be much appreciated. Also, here's a link for one I found - what do you think of the price tag?

http://www.jgsales.com/product_info.php/rifles/ak-...

Thanks.

I picked up a new board with 1000-grade extruded base and wondering what wax would work best. I’ve used Test Pilot 411 wax (hot, high-fluoro, all-temp) on my 4.4K sintered board for the last couple of seasons with good results. Do you think that this would be a good wax for the new board as well? Any particular wax and waxing tips that ya’ll could recommend would be most appreciated. Cheers!

Please forgive the lack of technical terminology. Picked up a new board last season and was having a bit of trouble with it - back turns (leaning back) feel too sharp, especially when coming out of a forward-leaning carve. It feels like the toe-edge of the board by my back foot keeps catching every single bump, no matter how easy I take the turn/carve. As far as I can tell it is either because the edges are too sharp (angle wise) or because my stance is too far back. I haven’t changed the factory-set edge angle and my stance is set about 2” back as compared to perfectly centered stance. Most of my boarding is on packed snow.

Should I dull the edges a bit by my back foot, have a shop set a greater edge angle, adjust my stance, or am I completely off on my guesswork?

Any tips or advices would be appreciated.

FNP 9 and FNP 40 have ambidextrous decokers, but the lever on FNP-45 looks like the manual safety on HK USPs. Is it a safety lever or just differently designed decoker?

Also, how are your shooting impressions - 50ft+ accuracy, one-hand control, recoil, and comfort.

Definite answers only, please - no guesses. Thanks y'all.

Got an idea and need some advice to make sure that I am not missing or forgetting anything.

I recently installed a UTG rail kit on my AK, making the latch that secures the upper front grip obsolete. Now the idea is to remove the front sight and the portion of the front sight block that is elevated above the gas tube. Step two would be to mount a rail extending half-way over the receiver, but that's beside the point.

From what I can tell, unless too much material is removed, the front sight block should still hold the gas tube just fine. The real question is - what tools would suffice? My budget allows for quite a bit, but I don't want to spend more than $1K on this project. I was thinking about a good hand-held grinder for the basic removal and a dremel tool for finishing touches. What worries me is the fact that the metal is tempered, could I ruin the temper with this removal?

There is more to this project than described, but I already have most of the answers for everything except this phase. If you are seriously interested in either helping or participating (Northern VA), e-mail me directly: rmerenov@yahoo.com.

So, any tips, suggestions, warnings, or advice? Thanks everyone.

Here is the Robinson's version that is similar to what I am trying to do: http://www.robarm.com/vepr_ktr.htm

PS. Leave out the questions "why don't you just buy the VEPR?" I have my reasons.

I am attempting to convert my Remington 700 SPS .308 rifle with floor plate to accept magazines of any manufacturer or capacity. Trying to make the conversion and a couple extra clips fit in under $200. I looked around the web quite a bit, but doesn’t look like there is anything out there that meets my requirements.

I know H-S Precision makes conversion kits, but they are in the upper $200s and extra clips are cost over $100 each! I was also looking at Kwik Clip conversion offered through Cabella’s, but it is only for long-action rifles. Sportsmansguide.com sells a “mag extension”, but it is not detachable.

Any tips or suggestions?

Can a Kwik Clip kit be converted/adjusted to function in a short action rifle?

Are there any clips that can be modified to fit an existing floor-plate well?

Thank you all for any help that you can provide!