What's the best way to get rid of gophers / moles?
I am not even certain of which ones I have; gophers or moles. But I am tired of them. I have purchased and tried two types of traps.One from Mole Pro and then the typical spring loaded long tine and spear type trap.
I have used two or three types of poisons. Who knows if it works or not? I have even shot them with both a 22 caliber rifle and a 20 guage shot gun.Yes I live in the country. Luckily. Sound like Caddy Shack yet?
My latest possible attempt might be a different type of trap I saw my father had borrowed from his neighbor. This trap is from a company called Nash Products Inc. Don't really want yet a third style of trap and I don't want to have to treat 4 acres of grass / gardens with grub killer either.. I've heard that's what attracts them. Kill the grubs and they go away. It would be rather expensive to do the size of area I am dealing with.
Can anyone show me an easy way out before I get the back hoe out?
?2006-07-04T07:28:29Z
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YOUR ARE IN LUCK. As a MASTER GARDENER for the univ of Calif coop extension for over 15 years, I am know as Dr Death. I've have sent more buck tooth fuzz balls to gopher heaven the any man in San Diego County. My first time kill rate is 98.5% on my first trap'n attempt. 1st, poison bait... 25 % kill rate. They only work in the colder season when there isn't much for the fuzz balls to eat. Face it, given the choice of a big, fat juicy root or some dried out poison grain, what would you eat? Also, for the poison to work, they have to eat it at least 5 days in a row for it to do it's job. If Mr Gopher eats it only a few time, all you get is a sick, and smarter gopher. Trap'n is the only way to make sure you nail the bas****. But the real secrete has nothing to go with traps. The secrete is to cave in and or backfill as much of his tunnel as possible. Just because you nailed uncle jim doesn't end your problem. Because as soon as uncle jim gets nailed, cousin leroy next door move right into jim's old condo. You can have plant problems for years and never know you have gophers. If they have nice little empty tunnels waiting for 'um, they don't have to dig new ones. No digging, no mounds & you think you have no gophers. Also by caving in their tunnel, you can see when you do have activity and can nip it right away. Also the fewer tunnels, the harder it is for them to make babies. Except for mating, they like to live alone in their own tunnels. If the females and males are kept farther apart... you get the idea. Best traps are the "Black Hole" traps you can find at most Home Depots, etc. This fellow in San Diego came up with the idea back in the mid 1980's. Got tired of pulling theguts out of the spear traps. He built it out of some 4inch PVC pipe. Simple idea that worked. He brought several over to the county farm advisor's office & several of us Master Gardeners took home to try them out. They worked great. His son made a million dollars off the design. Always buy 'um in pairs, one for each direction of the tunnel. No bait needed, but some old timerswear rubbing a bit of garlic on the trap is a sure way to get um. I've nailed thousands without the garlic, so i really don't think it matters? Get yourself a long piece of steel rebar & bend up one end like a walking cane. Rap some cloth around the handle part so you don't get any blisters on your palm. You now have a great gopher "prod". You use that to poke around the ground feeling for tunnels. Believe me you'll know when you find one. Best place to start is inbetween two mounds, They seldom push soil out their main tunnel, but push it out on either side of the main tunnel. Set the traps via the easy instructions on the box & go have a beer. Between 1 to 12 hours later you'll have reason to have another. No more bloody spears to deal with. The trap is designed so yo never touch the fuzz ball. You just release the trap over the trash can & the late uncle jim just falls into the trash. Then the hard part begins. Use your probe and follow that tunnel. Back fill with soil or cave in as much as you can find. the more the better. Each spring i used to give a full day, hands on class to homeowners on gopher control for the univ of calif. The class was limited to 50 people but swelled to over 100. So I started giving for each year. Many former students drop by to brag about their sucess. One 74 year old lady went home after my class and caught 14 gophers in that summer. If she can do it so can you. It's not as hard as it seems. It's actually more brain work the brawn. Gopher damage to crops & landscape in the state of calif each year top 3 Billion dollars. That was Billion, with a B.
I type with only one finger, so i tend to make mistakes with speed. But the spel checker is down again as usual & i'm tired of waiting for it everyday, so forgive my typos.
I have heard it all. Egg shells, chewing gum, banana peelings, flooding, peppers, human hair, Soap and bacon grease, humane urine, chemical pellets and even smoke. Sorry, but it’s all worthless. You’re going to have to get rid of them and do so aggressively. For best and quickest results, use the spring traps (I saw some at Wall-Mart last week). Place them over the "runs" that you see thought your yard. Then the moles go through, it triggers the trap and you'll have one. Be sure to re-set the trap for another.
Poison peanuts/wheat also work, but results are slower. These are made by the W. R. Sweeney Company. I have also, if you have the time, walk on the mound that is left when they dig & just wait. Soon, you will see them going through the tunnel by raising the dirt again. Quickly dig them up w/a shovel. You have to move fast to get them this way. Odds are good; you won't be able to kill them fast enough.
Until you solve the real problem, you will continue to have moles. They are in you yard because there is an abundance of Grubs there. Just like another animal, they have selected your yard for the abundance of food there. You can treat your yard with a Bayer product, Merit or a Scotts product , Grub EX. It is a granular product that spreads on the lawn much like you would spread fertilizer. A product that has Bifenthrin, sometimes called Talstar as an active ingredient in it will also work well. Another possibility is to add nematodes to your yard. The nematodes can be found at most of your Mom and Pop garden centers, and feed on Grubs. Another product many people have had success with (myself included) is Milky Spore. To treat the lawn, just put a spoon full at 3 foot by 3 foot. Milky Spore lasts for many years. Understand, it will only kill the grub in its larva stage and will not harm the existing grubs. These are much more organic approaches, but as is normally the case with organic solutions, results will be slower. Rid your yard of the Grubs and your mole problem will not be resurfacing.
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