I have a tin of 7.62x54r surplus so it's corrosive and I've looked at a variety of the cleaning methods out there for it from hot water, hot soapy water, diluted ammonia or a ammonia based cleaner I'm just wonder which method is best? Should I hit it with some ammonia at the range and then let it sit till I get home or wipe it out? the range is a 30 to 40 minutes drive away would it be safe to wait till I got home to clean it for example how fast do the corrosive compounds start to rust metal in the gun? I'm shooting a mosin nagant 91/30 for cleaning the corrosives on it do i just need to wipe down the barrel and bolt face/head or should I wipe out the whole receiver and take the bolt apart or wipe down the outside of the rifle?
DT89ACE2009-06-08T19:56:55Z
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The idea is to "flush" the corrosive salts out of the barrel. Hence, pouring scalding hot water from the chamber out the muzzle end. Jeff's method is right on for the cleaning, muzzle in the bucket, don't be bashful. Don't buy into "Nitro's" answer not to use water...water doesn't hurt guns if they get oiled.
Just using ammonia or a solvent (other than the old GI solvent) won't cut it.. You can add some ammonia to the hot water before flushing the barrel but the main thing is to just get all that nasty stuff OUT! The reason you use scalding hot water is because it evaporates quickly and the heat also opens and cleans pores in the metal.. As long as you make sure it dries and run an oil patch through you'll be A-OK. The primer salts are far worse than water..
You're safe waiting til you get home.. Clean anywhere exposed to the gasses expelled upon firing. So the chamber and barrel of course, and yes the bolt face too.
It is best to do it ASAP. Depending on geography if you live in more humid areas you might want to do that immediately. But if you live in a more forgiving environment like the southwest than you have a larger window. If you do do it at the range be sure it is dry. Everyone has their own methods. Whether it be windex, soapy water, special solvents or just pouring really really hot water down the bore. They all do the same thing, diluting the salts away. I use a turkey baster and really hot water personally. It's worked for me since I've used corrosive ammo. Some people say ammonia but windex is only 5% ammonia so you don't really need a lot, and a high ammonia mixture ratio can hurt the steel if left to sit. Just be sure to dry it well and oil after normal cleaning. Besides its the water that does the job to neutralize the salts. Ammonia is there to remove some copper fouling.
Some people say you need to take down the entire bolt. They are incorrect. But it is a good idea to know how to take that apart and back together in the dark like I can. I have learned all you really need to clean is the bolt head and top part of the pin. Wipe a wet towel over it. Now you would have to take the bolt apart and soak it in water if you peirced a primer but if you did you would know by the hot gases hitting you in the face.
Well I'm sure some people are more anal about it than me, but I wait till I get home which is about 30 minutes from the range.
As for methods of cleaning, I'm a fan of the diluted ammonia method my self. I just wipe down the bolt face, hammer, and barrel. But again, I'm not all that anal about it.
use an ammonia based cleaner or just straight up ammonia. I would clean everything that the escaping gases touches. DO not just leave the ammonia in/on the gun however as it is highly basic and can cause damage if left for extended periods ie. a few hours. after cleaning with ammonia wipe all surfaces then lightly oil all metal parts
Lot of info here : http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/corrosive/index.asp
I have always just used a few patches soaked in generic windex after shooting at the range then once I got home I would run a few more patches of windex then solvent and oil as normal. I think windex is mostly water anyway with around 5% ammonia.