i am 17 and i want to start saving for my first gun when im 18. (it is legal in my home state). i like a good old fashioned looking ak, with a good redish wood. i can also handle recoil, so the 47 is a option.
the ak-74 : http://www.atlanticfirearms.com/storeproduct1226.aspx
what is the break in period for these guns? what are my chances of a hang up after the break in with steel surplus mags and decent ammo? has anyone had experience with these particular models? milled reciever or stamped? what are some things i should look want and avoid? overall, i want a gun that is jam free after the break in period and able to do 5" groups at 100 yds with high-end ammo. and classic, reddish wood. thanks. P.S. would it kill the value of these guns if i carved "Austere" on the stock? just a thought.
2012-09-04T17:37:40Z
http://www.atlanticfirearms.com/storeproduct1227.aspx i posted the wrong link for the ak-74. if you have answered my question before no offense but i want more than one educated opinion before i let go of this kind of money, you know?
Lime Green Medic2012-09-04T17:55:01Z
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I'll take your questions in order:
"what is the break in period for these guns?"
These guns have a break in period? When did this happen? Seriously, it's an AK. Either it works or it's severely AFU. If it's AFU, fix it, and it works again.
"what are my chances of having a hang up after the break in with steel surplus mags and decent ammo?"
Almost nil. I think I've had a total of three bona fide malfunctions in my favorite AK, and all of them were with one batch of ammo -- so I did the math on that. Seriously, AK is the benchmark for reliability. Only Century International Arms has managed to screw up the AK platform -- and that takes some serious tard talent right there.
"has anyone had experience with these particular models?"
Yep. Plenty. Used to sell 'em, buy 'em, and shoot 'em on occasion...when I got time. Now I'm old so I don't buy or sell 'em anymore. I had one that was my baby and range toy.
Part of the reason why it was my range toy is because I didn't have to baby it, or take tools with me, or tinker with it all the time. I put ammo in it, I point it down range, I shot.
And shot, and shot, and shot, and shot. And didn't worry.
"milled receiver or stamped?"
I'd go stamped. Milled is rarer, more expensive, and slightly heavier in weight. No real advantage I can see other than nicer lines.
"what are some things i should look want and avoid?"
Want: A front sight tower and gas block that's not canted, like early CAI guns were. Avoid: Early CAI guns. Seriously, their QC folks had to have been on a 2 year break or something.
"P.S. would it kill the value of these guns if i carved "Austere" on the stock?"
Yes, it would. You went so far as to say you wanted classic reddish wood and the first thing you want to do is carve on it like some highschool kid defacing his desk? *Eyeroll*
If you're going to go to the trouble of buying a THOUSAND DOLLAR AK, which is a little like buying a totally restored 66 VW bug...why would you then deface it?
And, the one sold by Atlantic Firearms is not just an AK...it's a VEPR...dude, that's right up there next to Arsenal as the "Cadillac of AK's".
I really don't see you having ANY problems with that rifle. And if you do, I'm pretty certain Atlantic will make good on it. Seriously. A baseline AK is a 450 dollar rifle. You're paying over double for that for the VEPR. There is NO reason why that thing shouldn't run like a top and cook you BREAKFAST for that price.
Don't get me wrong, it is pretty and from the pictures it looks to be "fully restored" to original russian spec...correctly. In which case, I reiterate: You should NOT have any problem with that rifle. None. Zero. Zilch. Zip.
I think you have my answer from the last time you asked: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=As6VFJl6PObN5dk_zTR1CEfsy6IX;_ylv=3?qid=20120830212749AAEqSZv
Come'on @Merle. First you mention the "accuracy limitations of the AK" then you give him the break-in instructions for a 300 yard tack-driving, bolt-action, rifle. AKs (especially ones with chrome-lined barrels) need zero break-in other than a good cleaning and lube before the first shot. I have never had a jam with my AK and can get 3" at 100 yards (easily) with surplus or cheap Bear ammo.
@FRSracer pre/post-ban discussion is confusing and not material to the question. You are not buying a used rifle, so this is not an issue. First, it is 100% incorrect to say that "A post ban rifle is going to be less expensive and you buy it as an assembly kit." Since the assualt weapons ban ended in 2004, the only thing you need to worry about is 922r. Unless you know what your doing, you should completely stay away from "parts kits". The only thing that is of concern these days is 922r that requires that no more than 10 key parts from these imported "non-sporting" rifles be imported. Every imported AK 47 sold must comply with 922r, which usually means that the stock and trigger group are US made and the bolt and receiver and barrel assembly are imported. In decent quality guns (as the ones linked), these are imported as a unit and not as parts, and will have all the pre-ban features (such as the bayonet lug on the AK47).
Since these are not collectable carving "Austere" on the stock will not significantly devalue the AK, and if it is done tastefully it may not effect the value at all. Worse case, the next owner can buy a new stock.
I think I might have answered this for you before. There are two types of AK's on the market. Pre-ban and post-ban. A pre-ban rifle is going to be pre 1980's and will be totally authentic. It will also be a lot more expensive. A post ban rifle is going to be less expensive and you buy it as an assembly kit. This is to get around the importation laws. Usually the trigger and feeding system were made in the US and the rest was imported. With a kit rifle you can assemble it on your own or have a gun smith do it for you.
Edit: I forgot to tell you that unless you buy a NITB (New in the box) pre-ban rifle they probably won't require a break in.
Edit: if you engrave it into a pre-ban it'll take a lot of the value. Even if its a professional engraving. On a Kit if its laser engraved it shouldn't matter too much.
Until recently, you almost never saw an AK74 type in the United States... No one used them, so no one knew to like them. We also don't fight people who use AK74s, so they get no publicity that way. The Soviets gave AKMs (The proper name for an AK47, "Type IV") to our enemies in Vietnam, where the AK47 became famous to Americans. By the time the AK74 rolled around... Vietnam only had a few years left, and the new rifles were going to real Soviet troops, not insurgencies where they were basically counted as a loss. Now, the Russians still use the AK74... So it is the AK47/AKM we see in Iraq, Afghanistan, etc., because they are obsolete and plentiful. The AK74 and M4 are both admirable weapons.... Both very durable, accurate, and effective in tissue. Easy to maintain. My preference is with the M4-type... But I certainly don't hate the AK74.
Well since you understand the accuracy limits of the AK platform there's not much I can tell you ha ha. Recoil of the 7.62 x 39 is negligible. Recoil of the 5.45 x 39 is barely existent with a nice muzzle brake. I've owned stamped versions of both. Magazines and ammunition are much more common and inexpensive for 7.62 x 39. Not too many stores in my area carry 5.45 x 39. Be very careful with any Century Arms International AK style rifle (or any CAI semi-automatics for that matter). It''s often tempting to buy the cheapo instead of waiting. To break it in, shoot one round and then clean barrel. Repeat five times. Then shoot five rounds and clean the barrel. Repeat five times. This isn't a varmint rifle so you don't need to be too religious about it. As for carving the stock...don't do it to nice wood like in your picture. Have a professional do it.