Reloading Question: What 'range' of powder charge do you usually go with? (Handgun loads)?
So safety first, the charge weight has to be within listed ranges and show no signs of overpressure like flattened primers or spent cases that are bulged, split or won't extract.
If you have a powder the has a start load of 4.0 grains and max load of 5.0 grains, where do you usually load it at (after your checks)? Is it a different approach for different gun, lead vs. jacketed vs. plated? Do you compare for accuracy with that particular bullet/powder gun combination?
For me I usually am limited by what my powder measure throws and stay 0.1-0.3 grains below max (I tend to try to go heavy without going over). I do go lighter on 38 cal 100-125 grain lead bullets to reduce leading. If I am loading 158 grain lead or plated/jacketed 357 mag for my lever gun or Ruger Security-Six I may go right at max (obviously while still checking for pressures).
2013-10-06T05:26:06Z
I have another (separate) question for you guys here: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20131006052138AAz2Fap
2013-10-06T08:05:59Z
gentlewolfspaws, you didn't read the question. I'm not talking about a specific load. No intelligent reloader is coming to yahoo answers for a specific load. I'm asking in general...do you load heavy, light, in the middle and why.
2013-10-06T08:08:21Z
Cane Toad Mutiny, for what it's worth, on my first time with recipe I usually only do 25 rounds...never more than 50.
C T M2013-10-06T07:02:25Z
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I personally think picking a charge weight arbitrarily is a fools endeavor. Let's take your example of a starting charge of 4 grains and a maximum charge of 5 grains, and the reloader decides "I'll just use 4.5gr since it's in the middle, how can I go wrong!" and then proceeds to load a full run of 100. The he goes to the range and shoots and has atrocious accuracy. What I would do is load a few( 5 or 10) at 4gr, a few at 4.2gr, a few at 4.4gr etc etc until the max charge is reached. Then take those to the range with my load book and shoot groups, log in my load data book my results and at that point make my decision what charge weight to use based on accuracy testing. Just picking a random number between min/max charge weight rarely gives optimum accuracy potential.
When I try a new load that I'm not familiar with, I will load a batch (usually 20) at minimum. I will then cut to the center and load another batch. Then, I will load one batch at max. Essentially, I cut the load range into thirds. Since I mainly target shoot, I will then try to walk the charge down until I start to lose accuracy or reliability in a semi. I never go over max, since I don't think it really accomplishes anything useful.
The only exception is my .357 Remington Maximum. It's an ultra-mag shot out of a TC Contender, so I know it can handle it, just like you and your lever gun and Security Six. That, I will play at 110% loads, but stop when I get the first strong signs of primer extrusion.
i was thinking your question was different. "Range " to my mind means burn rate when speaking of powders. In that case I generally begin work with a mid range burn rate. Those are powders listed in the middle of the recipe chart. The chart list fast to slow burn rates.
For handguns I first have some favorite powder stocks for small, medium, and large case capacities. Loading for the .357, of course most those loads would be .38 special for practice. BUT, for full boat .357 Magnum loads I would being right in the middle. By your example 4.5 Grains. Working up from there. I do not like to see indications of high pressure in my handguns. That is certain excessive wear. And yes, absolutely you should watch for signs of pressure, while of course on a quest for a load that offers accuracy AND performance.
See, a fast powder is kind of like hitting the bullet with a sledge hammer sending it on it's way. While the slower burning stuff is more like a push. I generally find optimum performance somewhere in between. Hence the mid range burn rate. Yes, I do also prefer the 158 grain.
The Ruger Security six is absolutely a solid revolver. ( a little ugly ) I had one, and could shoot 50' with that simply pointing it without aiming, and not loose much at all in my scores. No problem putting a cylinder full of shots into the black 3" circle on the standard 50' slow fire targets. I was so spooked by that, I figured I certainly would not want anyone in my home to pick that to use against me. That was one I never kept loaded, and normally hid. Straight shooting, and I have never had a revolver I shot so well. Mine was stainless.
Edit : SORRY, old duff brain fa^7, burn rates ARE LISTED slow to fast not as I stated in the previous, I know that, the hands and head were at odds there a second. LOL
For rounds I use on targets I use the lowest charge weight that gives good accuracy. I don't really care about velocity too much. I do like CTM does. I'll work up a batch of loads(usually 8 rounds) of increasing powder amounts and then go try them. When I find one I like then i'll go back and load a large batch of them. Many people want to get as close to a max load as they can. That's not always the most accurate load in my experience. I prefer accurate and economical in this day of increasing component costs. For hunting rounds in a rifle I load 4 round batches and test them. Hunting rounds I load to a higher velocity as long as they are accurate. I never start with a max or near max load from the manuals. The closest i'll go for a starting load is 1/2 grain from max. For carry guns I never carry my hand loads. In them I use factory ammo such as Hornady Critical Defense.
I usually start at the minimum, and load about 3 rounds for each .1 gr up to about the mid range. Then I shoot them and watch for pressure. If the mid range load performs OK, I go with it. I don't see where a handgun, other than my .357 Mag needs to be accurate. As long as it functions ok, that is all that is needed. It saves some on powder and wear and tear on your gun.