Are there any tests you can do to tell if Jade is genuine or not?

Go to this link: http://www.firemountaingems.com/beading_howtos/pbs...

The name jade has been, and continues to be, applied to a variety of materials that superficially or closely resemble jade but are not composed of either jadeite or nephrite. F.T.C. regulations in this country deem such usage unlawful, yet the practice persists, either through ignorance or otherwise. Some of the problem can undoubtedly be traced to cultural and historical differences in word usage. In China, for example, the word jade has traditionally been applied not only to nephrite and jadeite jade, but to green serpentine and soapstone (talc) whose appearance closely resemble true jade. Common misnomers and the materials they represent are: "Korean" Jade for serpentine or gem serpentine (bowenite), "Indian" Jade for aventurine, "Mexican Jade" for green-dyed calcite, "Transvaal Jade" for green hydrogrossular garnet, "Amazon or Colorado Jade" for amazonite (blue-green or green) feldspar and "Oregon or Swiss Jade" for green chalcedony.

The most commonly used test is the scratching test. This is usually not done correctly. When nephrite jade is scratched very hard with steal it can leave a mark, especially softer termolite jades. The hard fine-grained jades will always past the test but often softer jades do not. You should not use a fine pointed steel object but rather a more rounded pointed instrument. Find an area at the base of the object (do not do this on faces or detail) and gently press down and scratch the surface with the point of a scissors. You do not have to "dig" into the object. If it is not nephrite it will usually leave a deep mark. If it is only a surface mark then it is a hard stone and probably nephrite jade. The true and accurate test for Nephrite is a density test that can be conducted by a mineralogist or a Jade expert. This test will at least allow you the satisfaction of knowing that it is a hard stone and not a cheap soapstone carving.

Jade occurs in many more colors. True jade can be either of two different minerals, jadeite or nephrite. Both variations of jade are tough stones that don't break or chip easily. All jade typically has a medium to high polish. Jadeite is the more rare of the two jade variations, and the most expensive. Most of the world's supply of fine jadeite comes from Burma, but deposits are found in Guatemala and a few other areas around the world.

* Jadeite occurs in many colors: greens, white, lavender, yellows and oranges, black, reds, and more.

* Evenly colored, translucent emerald green jadeite is called Imperial Jade.

* Jadeite ranks at about 7 on the Mohs scale, compared to 10 for a diamond, but don't let that fool you--jade is a tough mineral that resists chipping and breaking.

Nephrite is the second variety of jade. It is more plentiful than jadeite--and less expensive. A traditional source of nephrite is the Xinjiang Province in China, which produced the jade used by Chinese artisans until Burmese jadeite began to be imported in the 1700's. Nephrite deposits have been discovered all around the world, even in the United States.

* Nephrite jade is found in fewer colors than jadeite.

* Instead of a bright emerald green, nephrite greens are often grayish, mottled, or more subdued.

* Nephrite ranks at about 6.5 on the Mohs scale. Because it is softer than jadeite, finished pieces cannot be as highly polished.

* Watch for uniform color throughout, although multi-color pieces can be in high demand

* Intense colors of jade are desirable. Green is the most popular, so can be more expensive.

* Semi-transparent to translucent jade is more valuable than opaque jade.

* Avoid jade with many cracks or other visible flaws.

* Finely textured, highly polished jade cabochons or other uncarved pieces are considered the most desirable items for jewelry.

* Jade is very often dyed, but dyeing is not considered a permanent treatment.

* Heat treatments are used to lighten or intensify the color of jade.

* Most jade is waxed.

Detecting Fake Jade:

* Color-intensified nephrite is sometimes marketed as jadeite.

* Dishonest dealers alter and sell dyed quartz and other stones, labeling them jade.

Detecting Fake Jades

http://www.thejadetrade.com/ian/fake1.html

I just had a look at the website recommended by Karen J and it is all you need to know. Since the main tests involve either testing the hardness of the material with steel, or measuring the specific gravity, I guess the message is don't buy jade on the Internet!

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Jade Ornaments Uk

Become familiar with imitation jade. Only jadeite jade and nephrite jade are authentic jade. The most expensive and desirable jadeite (Burmese Jadeite, Burma Jade, Imperial Jade, or Chinese Jade) usually comes from Myanmar (formerly Burma), and small quantities are mined in Guatemala, Mexico and Russia. 75% of the world’s jade comes from the mines of British Columbia in the form of nephrite, but it's also mined in Taiwan, the United States and (in small amounts) Australia.[1] In New Zealand Greenstone or Pounamu is highly regarded by Māori. Māori people recognize four main types of pounamu, identifying their color and translucence: kawakawa, kahurangi, īnanga. These are all nephrite. They also regard a fourth type of pounamu - tangiwai- from Milford Sound which, although prized is actually bowenite and not truly jade in the eyes of the rest of the world. Other materials passed off as jade include: serpentine ("New Jade" or "Olive Jade") prehnite aventurine quartz grossular garnet ("Transvaal jade") Chrysoprase ("Australian jade" - most of it comes from Queensland, Australia) Malaysia Jade (permanently dyed translucent quartz that may be called by its color – Red Jade, Yellow Jade, Blue Jade) opaque dolomite marble ("Mountain Jade" - from Asia, dyed in vibrant colors) Irregularities mean it's probably realHold it up to a bright light. If possible, examine the internal structure with a 10X loupe. Can you see little fibrous or granular, felt-like, asbestos-like intertwinings? If so, it's probably genuine nephrite or jadeite. Chrysoprase, on the other hand, is microcrystalline, so it'll look homogenous.[2] If you see anything resembling layers with the 10X loupe, you're probably looking at jadeite that's been "doubled" or even "tripled" (thin layer of gem-quality jadeite sometimes glued over a different base).[2] Observe the density. Both jadeite and nephrite have a very high density (jadeite - 3.3; nephrite - 2.95). Density is measured by dividing the weight (in grams) by the volume (c.c.). A specific density gravity test can be performed as described below, or you can judge the density less accurately by tossing the stone in the air and catching it in your palm. If it feels heavier than most stone pieces of the same size, it is more likely to be authentic jade.[3] Another way to judge density is to observe the sound of plastic beads gently tapping each other. If you have a piece of real jade, clink it against the stone in question. If it sounds like plastic beads, then the stone in question is probably fake. Should be cold and stay cold for a bitHold the piece of jade in your hand. It should feel "cold, smooth and soap like to the touch".[4] It should take a while to get warm if it is real. However, this is very subjective, and most helpful when you can compare it to real jade of a similar shape and size. Wind a strand of hair around the piece. then hold it over an open flame, such as a match or a lighter, for about a second. If the hair burns away, the piece is not real. But if it stays intact, the piece should be real. Perform a scratch test. Jadeite is very hard; it will scratch glass or even metal. Nephrite, however, can be much softer, so performing a scratch test improperly may damage a genuine piece. Use the blunt end of a pair of scissors and gently press down and draw a line on an area on the jade piece that is not visible (bottom or end of the piece). Avoid any weathering surfaces because these are much softer and can be easily damaged. If the scratch makes a white line, gently wipe it off (it might be metal residue from the scissors). Is there still a scratch? If so, it's probably not authentic jade.[5] If it scratches glass or steel, it could still be many of the alternatives to jade as well, including the various forms of green quartz and prehnite. Perform this test at your own risk. The piece may be very valuable, even if it's not made from jade, and can lose significant value if scratched. Look for other deceptive practices. Even if you have real jade in your hands, it can still be treated by dyeing, bleaching, use of stabilizing polymers, and creating jade doublets and triplets. Jade is divided into three categories based on these possibilities: Type A - natural, untreated, undergoes a traditional process (plum juice washing and polishing with beeswax), no "artificial treatments" (e.g. high temperature or high-pressure treatments), "true" color.[6] Type B - Chemically bleached to remove impurities, injected with polymer with the use of a centrifuge to enhance translucency, covered with hard and clear plastic like coating, subject to instability and discoloration over time because polymer gets broken down by heat or household detergent, still 100% real jade with 100% natural color.[6] Type C - chemically bleached, dyed to enhance color, subject to discoloration over time due to reaction with strong light, body heat or household detergen

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All the jade I have feels the same. My mam worked in a jewellers and told me to feel it. It should always feel cold to the touch. Even if the environment is warm.

Hope this helps

Ask Mick or Bianca.