Is there any way to perk up my suspension?

Is it different than it was, - or has it essentially the same as it was new? The problem with springs (of any type) is that they become a little weaker over time, this makes the car ride a little lower to the ground, and allows an increase in "body roll" in turns.

If this is the problem, you can replace the springs (most likely the fronts will be the worst offenders), -since they have the most weight riding on them! "competition" springs will be stiffer, and therefore cause less "bouncing", and less "roll" on the turns. The next thing is the shockabsorbers, they allow the car to literally "bounce" when you go over bumps. The proper operation is to "snub" sudden "bounces" either up or down. If shocks are bad, you can bounce up and down on bumpers, and the car will "bounce" several times before it comes to rest, - good ones will only let the car bounce - maybe twice before coming to rest again! Competition shocks are also available!

If you put competition Shocks and springs both in, it will ride much "stiffer", - meaning that you will get a lot more "road response" inside the car. Meaning that you will "feel" the road surface, -feel the response of steering in turns etc, -- just like a "sports car feels"! Since the sports car is designed specifically to give this kind of response (so driver can tell just how close he is to "loosing" the car in turns and bumps). Instead of the "mushy - soft" ride of the luxury type car! .. I prefer the "more harsh suspension" as the car magazines describe it!!

Since the front has "McPhearson struts", - the springs and shocks" can be changed all at the same time, -(if you want to change both). Probably cost you around $250 a side, but the shocks would probably run closer to $100-125, -this is the price the garage will charge you, -- probaly it will run you about half that if you do the job yourself! Shop around, you may fine better prices than a "dealer locally" will sell them!

There is also a "stiffer swaybar" available that will make the front end more responsive in corners to some extent! I think they run around $125 too. There may be one on the back of car too, --they "pull" down the other side of car in turns, so the body stays near level, --rather than "rolling way over to the outside of the turn like a log!"

Now if the springs are holding the body up to about the right height -, -- you might just want to change the shockabsorbers, -- the rears are easy to replace (unless you have McPhearson struts in back too, - and I don't think they used them on a car this old!) Ther rear shocks only cost about 50-60 each (or less) for the "good stiff" competition type! they are fairly easy to replace also! The rear "cartrige type" (what I think you have), - are also available with "helper" springs installed around the shock body, - which would raise the body up a little in the back!

Ok McPhearson struts::::: they are set up with the spring inside a "housing" which also has the spring "perches" on it, -- so the

spring is compressed down around the "body and shaft" of the shock absorber........So you have to compress and remove the spring so that you can remove the shock from the housing (so to speak!). Ths requires a "spring compressor" tool, which clamps on the coiils of the spring to hold it "squeezed" down (compressed), -- then you can take the "top" off the assembly and lift the spring off, - then remove the cap and replace the shock absorber, -(or change spring and cap over to a "unitized" new shock), - and reassemble to put back on car! Most of better auto supply stores have spring compressors you can "rent" or borrow! One other thing, if the springs are a little waeaker, and allowing the body to come closer to the ground, you can put in "spacers" that fit between the spring "seat" and the spring,-(taking up space - therefore making suspension ride higher again!) Weaker springs (with spacers) will "respnond" somewhat less on bumps and turns than "standard springs" because they have less "travel length" left, - so that may be a "medium" between competiton (heavier springs) and "standard" (full strength, - standard compression) springs, Best of all they don't cost a whole lot!--- Maybe $20 for the pair? You will still have to have the spring compressors to put them in, -but the springs don't have to be removed to put them in! Avoid the "twist in" ones that you can just insert with a "socket wrench", -- they don't support enough area, and make the spring action "funky" (in vertical operation)!

If you want to do this yourself, (or have a willing accomplice), you should get a "Haynes auto repair" manual, - (available at "AutoZone" type stores) it will tell you what you have to do and has illustrations that show you what is happening. It will run you probably less than$20, and it has about everything you need to know to maintain your car, -(if you are mechanically capabable anyway!). If you want to keep the car, it is well worth the price!!

Note that I have been a mechanic for 55 years, and I buy a manual every time I buy a car! It saves me money in the long run!!

PS. I'm surprised somebody hasn't already made the snide remark - "buy a new one, - it's too old". I have a 1922 Model "T" Ford, - and it still isn't "too old!!"

install new struts,shocks and tires